Painting a Remington 700 (pic heavy)
This is a discussion on Painting a Remington 700 (pic heavy) within the DIY forums, part of the Sniping Related category; It's write up time!!!
Now while this may seem like a simple job to some, I know there is a lot of questions, and curiosity ...
Painting a Remington 700 (pic heavy)
It's write up time!!!
Now while this may seem like a simple job to some, I know there is a lot of questions, and curiosity when it comes to painting a rifle. I'm hoping this will clear some of it up.
This is what we will be painting with today:
I know, its not duracoat, cerakote, or Birdsong, but it's cheap, effective, and will work fine for it's intended purpose.
A good friend of mine, and fellow SC member, rbick let me have my way with his rifle while he is away on business :twisted:. It is a bone stock Remington 700 SPS Tac in .223. The scope is a Leupold Mk 4 1.5x-5x MR/T, and I'm unsure on the brand of the rings or bases.
The stock finish on these rifles leave something to be desired, as they rust very easily. It seems like any exposure to moisture or humidity causes corrosion almost instantaneously... Alright, maybe not that fast, but they do rust pretty quick. To solve such a problem involves either constantly applying a very light coat of oil, or re-finishing the exterior of the barreled action. Since oiling the rifle all the time is time consuming, and kind of a pain-in-the- I chose the latter.
The key to a good paint job is good prep work. So before you just tear your rifle down and start hosing it with paint you need to take some precautions.
The first step involves de-greasing any surface you want paint to stick to. There are several methods to do this, as well as several different products you can use. Since I'm kind of cheap, I simply washed the barreled action in the kitchen sink with Dawn dish soap. It's strips the oil off of the metal, and leaves my hands silky smooth.
After the rifle has been thoroughly washed, you must make sure that it is completely dry (paint doesn't like water). Compressed air works wonders for this.
Once your rifle is clean and dry, it's time to start masking...
I used standard 1/2" masking tape, and foam earplugs to do all of the masking.
Get the idea?
Since we’re dealing with spray paint here it is very important to make sure paint will not get onto surfaces that will impede the rifles operation, such as bolt lugs, or raceways inside the receiver. You can tell by the pictures, that I masked it in such a manner that no paint was allowed inside of the weapon at all.
On the bolt, I paid particularly close attention to the bolt lugs, and bolt face. This is a no no for paint. One thing I would like to point out, is when painting the bolt body with ultra flat paint, it will cause increased friction while inside the receiver. This can be easily remedied by slightly polishing the bolt body with ultra fine steel wool after it as completely dried.
Since I was going for the Ultra Tacticool two tone look on this rifle, the rings needed to be painted as well.
Masking the rings is very simple, and requires only that you keep paint off of the inside surfaces, and out of the screw holes. Nothing fancy here, just be sure that they are free of dirt and oil before you spray them.
Sorry for no before pics, as the camera was charging… You get the idea though.
Now that you have the rifle clean, dry, and all of the important things masked off, it’s time to start shooting some paint. The best way to paint a rifle is to use several light coats. If you spray too heavy you will get runs and sags which will need to be sanded out and touched up later. That’s no fun, so do it right the first time. After you have everything painted, and are happy with the results put the rifle up to dry. Although krylon says it’s dry in 15 minutes, give it a good hour before you start to peel off masking.
Once you’re done, this is what you should end up with:
After everything is good and dry, and you’re happy with how it turned out, you can start putting things back together again.
This is how my project turned out. Not bad for about 2 ½ hours of work and $15 worth of supplies.
Also, I forgot to mention that I did paint the bottom metal to give the rifle the look I was after. The only thing I did to prep it was to remove the magazine spring and follower, and to tape off the inside of the magazine door.
I hope this was of some use to you, and if you have any comments, questions, or concerns please feel free to let me know!
Nice job. I work about the same (more expensive epoxy paints though) and the only difference is I don't mind painting the bolt raceway but I don't like to paint the bolt at all. I do stick cotton ot several barrel patches in the receiver to block access to the breech and chamber. I spend a lot of time getting that area right I don't want it mucked up with paint.
If you end up with a sticky raceway you can use steel wool as said, fine sandpaper or polish it with Flitz (or a similar product). After all is said and done I like to hose the bolt down with Moly Lube and rub it in well.
I didn't get a picture of it, but I did put an earplug into the breech to keep any over spray out of the chamber. It definitely was the hardest part to mask, but it's very important to get it right.
Originally Posted by oneeyedmac
What specific name was that green you used? A friend is putting together a group order for duracoat and I like how your rifle turned out. He's got the good gun to spray it so if it's only $17 for the right color of duracoat, why not!
Ecclesiastes 10:2- The heart of the wise inclines to the right, but the heart of the fool to the left.
Rights are what you have the freedom to do, not what you can GET FOR FREE!
Re: Painting a Remington 700 (pic heavy)
Great writeup, I don't know how I missed it. I'll probably reference it a time or two when I paint my rifle in the near future.
Happiness is a warm gun.
Stevens 200 6.5x47 Lapua project rifle
6.5x55 M96 Swedish Mauser
S&W 1500 .30-06
Springfield XD45 Tactical Bi-tone
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