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Bed a Choate Tactical Rifle Stock

23K views 12 replies 7 participants last post by  ltcboy 
#1 ·
Okay, so I have a Remington 700 Tactical AAC-SD on the way and I've ordered some nice optics, DBM, and a new stock. For now, it will have to be a Choate Tactical. I'm thinking about bedding it. But I'm fairly sure the Choate Tactical has a V-block, and I've heard some say don't bed a V-block or that it is more difficult to bed a V-block. If I can end up with good sub-MOA groups, then I'll probably keep the stock anyway rather than upgrade further. And if bedding would still be the way to go on this Choate to further improve groups and would not beyond a noob's ability, then I'm willing to give it a try. I've never bedded an action before, so I'm looking for a little advice on if and how I should proceed.

Thanks.
 
#2 ·
I have a Choate Tactical on my 700 SPS-V It does have the V block...I'd shoot your rifle before you try and bed it...It may shoot just fine. I have not had the chance to shoot mine since I changed stocks but I have high hopes...but anything has to be better than the factory stock. The Choate gets some bad press on here but I like the stock so far. Its stiff and seems like what I was after. It may be a bit heavy but for my purposes that was OK. I figured I'd try it soon and see what results I get and then see if I need to bed it. I'm not sure why the V Block would make it any harder to bed though. I've not done one either so I am just guessing but it doesn't seem to hard a process.
 
#3 ·
There are whole bunch of people out there that feel it's required to have bedding under all rifle actions in order to make them accurate.

On any quality stock with a "V" block I would avoid bedding. I would invest some time with some Prussian Blue or Brownell's Gold spotting compound to make sure that the action is fully contacting the block along the edge. My B&C stock actually has what appears to be two "rails" along the outside edge of the block created by milling out the center channel.

Make sure that there is no excess stock material above the block that would interfere with full contact. Also make sure that the tang area is not nicked or dinged, thus holding the rear of the action up and not allowing full contact at the forward mating surface. By spending some time "fitting" the stock and action, all that "gookum-pucky" is unnecessary with stocks using V-Blocks. For me it resulted in a Remington 5-R .308 that regularly shoots nice small groups. Yesterday's outing yielded 300 yard groups averaging .7" Center to Center using Berger 185 gr Juggernauts. Every shot inside the 1" diamond on a 12" Shoot and See target. Of course it helped that there was a wind speed of ZERO:D (you take 'em when you can get 'em).

BTW, I did bed the action block in the original HS Precision stock. Was OK when cold but as the action heated, the groups went to poop. Not so with the current "unbedded" B&C.
 
#4 ·
I have found that usually, while the blocks themselves are fine, the area that needs the most improvement is the recoil lug. I've had some where the blocks don't even touch the recoil lug. It's pathetic. Get that area bedded, and things should fall into place.

Agreed. If the recoil lug isn't too far off, just tightening the action screws finger tight, hitting the butt on a sandbag while holding the stock vertical, and then torqing the action screws can be enough. Otherwise just add a daub of bedding compound (J-B, Devcon, Marine Tex, Steel Bed, etc) to the front of the action block and then install the action. I prefer to leave the sides, bottom, and front of the recoil lug free and just torque the action screws to 65 in/lbs.

Something else I do to add to action rigidity is use a good solid, steel, scope rail. Change the #6 mounting screws to 8-40 screws and then just put parting agent on the screws when I bed the scope rail. If I ever need it removed, all I have to do is take out the screws, add some heat with a heat gun, and slap the side of the rail with a nylon faced mallet and it will break loose. while it's bonded and secured with the larger screws it helps stiffen the action, not quite as good as the integral rails in a BAT or Surgeon action, but a lot better than a cheap rail with the tiny screws.

For those interested in upgrading the screws, Brownells has a nice kit for it that includes tap drill, tap, and counterbore for the larger screw heads.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the advice. I'll shoot it unbedded first and decide from there. Just got the stock, and my initial impression it's a fairly well-made item. The finishing on the bedding block is much better than on the B&C mounted to my R700 SPSV .223, and it shoots just fine. The setup they used on the sliding swivel stud on the forearm is a piece of cr@p though. I'll be modifying that first thing, which is a bit of annoyance.
 
#6 ·
I do not understand why the Choate Tactical Stocks for the REM 700 get such a bad rap all the time. I have one on my Rem 700 PSS and the gun shoots easily 1/4 MOA at 100 yds and shoots under 1/2 MOA out to 600 yds. I also shoot this same gun to 900 yds on a regular basis without issue. Just because it does not cost a $1000 does not make it a bad stock. The owners at Choate are great people to do business with.

Other members have given you great advice, shoot the gun first and see how it works out. Use a torque screwdriver and the correct settings for the receiver screws to help seat the receiver to the stock correctly. Deadshot2 gives great advise on the recoil lug. The Choate folks told me 60 in/pds. Deadshot2 says 65 in/lbs and I've even read 55 rear and 50 front. I went with what Choate said but 65 could be correct as well.

P.S. - the gun has not been bedded-that was my point as well.
 
#8 ·
avolcek, It is a big stock and it's certainly heavy. My rem is 13 lbs. with scope, no bipod. I see a lot of rifles in it's class that weigh about the same. I also guess it matters what use you have for the gun. For me I shoot off the bipod and bench. It would not be a gun to haul around all day in the woods but that's not what they are intended for. I have read a lot about military snipers and the .300 win mags and larger caliber rifles they field. Most are in that weight range. I know their are better stocks, I just don't think the Choate Tactical is as bad as it's made out to be. It just doesn't have the name recognition as some comparable stocks out there.
 
#11 ·
Agreed with the others that the Choate tactical stock is a well-kept secret. With their cheaply available cheek-rest risers, and a monopod that is less than $20 (used to be, anyway) you can get a pretty salty rifle stock for under (or right at) $200 if you shop around.
 
#12 ·
Agreed with the others that the Choate tactical stock is a well-kept secret. With their cheaply available cheek-rest risers, and a monopod that is less than $20 (used to be, anyway) you can get a pretty salty rifle stock for under (or right at) $200 if you shop around.
Agreed!!! And if you ever have the good fortune of dealing directly with CHOATE MACHINE AND TOOL, you be glad you did. The service is outstanding! I own two of their stocks, a collapsible M1A stock and their Folding Sniper stock.
 
#13 ·
Sir,

I have two Remington 700's. One is a .308 SPS Tactical and the other is what I call my labor of love......30-06 . The 30-06 has a brand new Rock Creek 28" barrel with 1:11.25 twist 5R rifling and the chamber was reamed using a PT&G Serangeti reamer which has as 1.5 degree lead angle as opposed to the typical 3 degree lead angle that most 30-06 chambers have. They are both tack drivers. Both of these rifles are planted in the Choate tactical stock and all I can say is that both of these stock.....no bedding at all, can shoot sun .5 moa. The quality of these stocks with the full aluminum v block is the best thing since sliced bread. In my opinion, take it with a grain of salt, you are wasting your time and money bedding your rifle to this stock. For the money, the Choate Tactical stock is the best kept secret. The rifle pictured is the 30-06 and the 5 shot group was done this past Friday at 100 yrds in sunny 60 degree weather.


Respectfully,

Mike


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