Best way to clean the barrel to not effect accuracy?

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  1. #1
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    Best way to clean the barrel to not effect accuracy?

    I did a search for this but could not find what I was looking for so if its out the just let me know or bear with me. lol What do you guys think is the best way to clean a precision rifle barrel? I've heard different things from different people so I need to know from some pros here. Do you use a brush or just patches with solvents? If just the patches with solvents which solvents do you find work the best for powder or copper or both?

  2. #2
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    Hit up any of the major barrel manufacturer's website and see what they say. I've saved a few out to my computer for easy reference - enjoy!

    Quote Originally Posted by Gun Cleaning For The Tactical Rifleman - by Ron Roark
    Rangemaster/Armorer/Gunsmith
    Ventura County Sheriff’s Department


    Considering the recent revelations regarding the use of certain bore cleaners, I would like to recommend the following method for cleaning counter sniper rifles. These methods are also recommended for hunting/varmint rifles. The KG Product’s line of cleaners is strong1y suggested due to their efficiency and lack of dangerous chemical additives.

    Always:
    Be sure the weapon is unloaded. Inspect it visually and physically.

    Locate the rifle so that the barrel muzzle is angled downward slightly from horizontal. This will help keep liquids from draining into the action.

    Remove the bolt and install a cleaning rod guide firmly in the boltway.

    BORE CLEANING: Affix a NYLON bore brush to a cleaning rod and push the brush all the way through the bore so that it protrudes from the muzzle end of the bore. Saturate the brush with a non-ammoniated cleaner, such as KG-1. Run the brush through the bore several times in order to saturate all parts of the barrel surface with a good coating of fluid. Allow to soak for five minutes or slightly more. This will allow the cleaner to soften the carbon deposits. If the carbon is very hard, or there have been a large number of rounds fired since the last cleaning, repeat the above process again. The nylon bore brush allows one to scrub back and forth with the brush without damage to it or the bore. A brass brush microscopically scratches the inside of the bore ultimately causing more copper to accumulate. It is not necessary to dry brush since using the cleaner on the brush is more efficient than dry brushing.

    Affix a good quality brass jag to the rod and carefully push it through the bore with a patch tightly wrapped. Do not withdraw the jag. Remove the patch at the muzzle end of the barrel. Tightly wrap another patch around the jag and carefully pull back into the bore part way so that it forms to the inside diameter. Use caution so as not to damage the crown of the bore. (Pulling the patch-covered jag back through the bore instead of pushing it prevents bending the rod against the lands and burnishing them) Then, using a scrubbing motion (short back and forth strokes), scrub the bore from one end to the other. Repeat until the patch comes out clean with no hint of black. The number of patches and the amount of scrubbing will depend upon the number of rounds fired, and the general condition of the bore. If the bore has seen a lot of use, re-brushing with the liquid cleaner, and reuse of the patches may be desirable until the bore has been conditioned and repeatedly polished. A hint that you have a clean bore is when the first patch down a wet barrel comes out perfectly clean. Be sure the patches are tight but not so tight as to cause the cleaning rod to bend when pushing it into the bore.

    BORE POLISHING: To remove the copper oxide deposits from the bore, carefully push the rod with a jag through the barrel. Wrap a tight patch around the jag at the muzzle. Squirt KG-2 bore polish on the patch, covering the entire patch. Carefully pull the rod back into the bore about halfway or until it moves easily, then begin with the scrubbing action from one end to the other for several minutes paying particular attention to the muzzle end without permitting the patch to exit the bore completely. Push the rod out the muzzle, remove the blackened patch and repeat this procedure. (It should be noted that the patch will never come out clean. It is removing the oxidation from the bore metal.) After several polishings, saturate a clean patch with bore cleaner, KG-1, and wash the polish from the bore followed by scrubbing with dry patches until they again come out clean. Visually inspect inside the muzzle. Look for heavy layers of copper on the surface of the lands or grooves. You may see traces of copper inside the minute irregularities in the barrel metal. This is OK, as long as it’s not on the top. The surface of the lands should look polished.

    The next step will depend upon the intended use of the rifle in the immediate future. If the weapon is to be stored, or placed in its case, the bore should be oiled with gun oil (KG-4) to prevent rust from forming. If the rifle is to be shot again before storage, it can be fired as is or the bore can be swabbed out with a good quality degreaser such as KG-3.

    In the event of a call-out and the rifle has been stored in it’s case; the bore should be quickly swabbed out with KG-3, a quick drying degreaser. This will allow for an accurate cold shot.
    [quote="S.G. & Y. PRECISION RIFLES, LLC"]Proper Barrel Break-in
    ensures long Barrel Life


    Proper barrel break-in procedures are crucial for top accuracy and performance. More barrels are damaged by cleaning rods than by any amount of regular shooting a person may do. If not done correctly, one can do more harm than good.

    The barrel break-in technique we endorse, is the “Speedy Method

  3. #3
    Senior Member SemperFi's Avatar
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    I use the second method that is posted above only with slight variation for my needs! It will give you a clean barrel every time!

    I also use sweets for copper removal... works very well and you won't have to use much if you "keep up" on the copper fouling and don't let too much get in your barrel.

  4. #4
    Kaz
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    There's a lot of people that think the break in stuff isn't neccesary. I used to think it was, but I've seen pretty strong evidence it doesn't really do anything. I wouldn't bother with that part.
    Those that wear shirts saying "been there, done that" typically haven't been anywhere or done anything.

    Speak softly and carry a big stick -TR

    What? Me, worry? -Alfred E Newman

    M4 SOPMOD: Like barbie for men

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the info everybody. I was planning on doing a break in of about 10-15 rounds kind of the same way option two explained it. What I was really wondering about was the best way to clean it and you guys cleared that up for me. Now I just have to wait for my A5 stock to be finished so I can put all these parts together and get to the range! :?

  6. #6
    Senior Member RemingtonSPS's Avatar
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    IMHO asking what the best way to clean ones barrel is like asking what the best way to brush your teeth is. you will find that there are many different views and methods of barrel cleaning even among competition shooters and barrel manufacturers. I agree about being VERY careful not to screw up the crown or throat of the rifle so the advice you've been given is spot on in that regard, definetly get a good bore guide and a 1 piece rod if you haven't already! but my opinion would be to see what everyone is doing and look for the constants in between methods. Here's my two cents from one of my favorite books:




    "Step 1: After removing the bolt, saturate a patch with regular solvent and use a jag tip to shove it through the receiver into throat. Next, scrub the bore with a bronze brush-3-4 strokes--down and out muzzle, and then back up to the chamber. Then run four to five dry patches down the bore on the jag (one at a time) out the muzzle. This will flush out the burnt powder but not the copper fouling."


    "Step 2: Saturate a clean patch with copper solvent, center it in throat carefully on jag, and shove down and out muzzle. Do it a total of 2 times so that a full, dense load of solvent will be dispersed throughout and coat the entire bore. Now wait 5-7 minutes for it to chemically do its job. Srub 10-round trips with the bronze brush (not nylon), all the way down and out the muzzle before drawing it back to the chamber. Flush this out with three or four new patches, one at a time on the jag. Swirl each in the chamber before centering it in the throat and adding more pressure to the forward stroke."


    "Step 3: Saturate a new patch with copper solvent and run it down the bore, but this time stop before it comes out muzzle and draw back to the chamber--then back down the bore and out muzzle. Wait 5 minutes, scrub with a bronze brush 6-8 times, followed by a dry patch with 5-6 patches. Wipe any gunk off the end of the muzzle and barrel and swirl a patch on the brush against the walls of chamber to mop up any remaining solvent.

    (These sequential steps will have cleaned 99.999 percent of the copper fouling out of the bore. Always take care when exiting the muzzle to place fingers on jag and carefully center in bore before re-entry. This cleaning method was inspected through the use of a bore scope 25x.)


    This author owns dozens of precision rifles that all shoot less than .25moa. one of the interesting things he mentions is that the number one reason for loss of accuracy is that people do not observe a proper amount of 'cool down' time between shots. when the bullet travels down the bore the inside of the barrel heats up to 6,500 degrees F for about 1.5 microseconds and he feels that a 5-minute minimum should be observed between shots. I do not have that kind of time though. I can see his point however. He also says these cleaning practices should be performed between 5-7 rounds fired. this author has got 8,500 rounds through some of his rifles without degraded accuracy, so if you have the time and patientce or a really expensive rifle have at it!
    Jesse
    www.shoot-farther.com

    Benchmark barrels
    360-652-2594

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