The gun is listed for sale on www.seattleguns.net
This is a discussion on CZ 750 Sniper within the Product Review Requests forums, part of the SniperForums.com & SniperCentral.com Related category; I have just purchased a CZ 750 sniper and I can not walk by it without looking at it and picking it up! It came ...
I have just purchased a CZ 750 sniper and I can not walk by it without looking at it and picking it up! It came in an aluminum locking case with all the parts and manual. I have not had a chance to fire it yet, but will let you know when I do. I think I recall someone else stating that the stock was flimsey. I don't know what they were holding but this stock is rock solid. I will take it to the range within the next 2 weeks to sight it in. The longest rifle range at the club I belong is only 200 yards, so it will not do the rifle justice, but I will let you know how it does. I will also have photos for anyone who wants them.
The gun is listed for sale on www.seattleguns.net
I have a CZ750 S1M1. He presented the following problem: IMG-20140808-WA0029.jpg
I wonder if this rifle comes with the Glass Factory Bedding and what can I do to solve this problem?
Last edited by Skull; 09-03-2014 at 08:58 PM.
It's been a while, so I thought I'd update.
For the record, the case it comes with is not aluminum. It has a thin aluminum frame with cardboard-backed foil sides riveted in. If you'd ever looked at the silver briefcases that Home Depot carries, these are just a much longer version of them. Possibly even made by the same maker. Given the weight of the rifle and the span of the unsupported case sides, it's not what I would call a good design. I never really used mine, but even then my case fell apart within a year.
Over the past 7 years since I've made the original review I have learned a lot about long distance shooting, rifles, scopes, etc. I competed and ranked in F-Class competitions. I now have a custom-built rifle based on the Remington 700 action topped with a benchrest Nightforce scope. Tried and true, I got my .308 tack driver and with my hand loads I pierce (not nick) dimes at 100yd with it. I've had many strings of 5, 6 and 7 in a row. My record so far is 13. I've moved to a .338LM now.
The CZ could have been a top-tier rifle. The adjustments on the stock needed to be designed a bit better as they creep-shift while shooting. The magazine retraining mechanism is designed poorly. The trigger is engineered well, but execution of the design has some unfortunate workmanship and material selection shortcomings. The action I feel is awesome - barrel quality is excellent and the match/fitment of these is great for factory work. These are the heart of the rifle, which means that not all is lost if you are willing to put some elbow grease into it post-purchase. Honestly, the best thing to do is to take it to a gunsmith before even firing it.
1. Glass-bed the stock.
2. Put a pin in the front magazine latch to disable the spring.
3. Have the gunsmith smooth and tune the trigger parts while removing the set-trigger gimmick.
4. Remove the factory scope rail and use direct-to-receiver rings to get your scope low.
5. Free-float the barrel.
6. Talk to a smith about methods to improve the stock so that the adjustable parts stay put. I have not done this to mine, but perhaps roughing up, or grating the friction surfaces, would prevent them from sliding under recoil.
Once these are complete, you will have a 1/2 MOA rifle CZ advertised. Then dial in your hand load and you should be able to get it down to 1/4. What more could you want?
A load that should work well will use Sierra MatchKing HPBT 168's. Vihtavuori powder is ideal, but Reloader is a good, cheaper and more common substitute. I used magnum primers when I shot my 308 a lot, but have since re-thought that strategy. Be good with your brass and anally accurate with your powder measures - that is key. Although it takes time, I have not found ANY factory load (and I've tried just about anything you can name) that is anywhere remotely as consistent either on the chrony, or on paper as even my "fast 'n dirty" hand-loads.
By problem are you talking about the fact that your barrel is touching the receiver? If so - they all come that way. Take it to a smith or fix it yourself.
Pull the barreled action off of the stock. Go to a hardware store and buy a wooden dowel that is just a bit smaller in diameter than the barrel. Get some 80 and 200 grit sandpaper. Wrap the sandpaper (80 grit first) around the dowel and sand the stock removing away material. Once in a while fit the stock to the rifle and see how you are doing. Ideally, I like a 1/16th or so gap. Also check that you are sanding evenly around the barrel. Once you are almost there, switch to the 200 grit paper to make the channel smoother. Bob's your uncle!
Per bedding, they literally put 2 drops of glass in there - it a joke! Either bed it yourself, or take it to a smith.
I've been following this thread since I purchased a 750 back in January. Not much info out there, so I'll try to help a bit. I purchased my 750 NIB in January 2014, it came in a hard molded case, manufactured in Italy, so I'm guessing that this is the latest version of the 750. The quality of the case is quite good and the rifle had no obvious manufacturing flaws. The barrel is free floated in that I can slide a dollar bill down the entire length of the barrel. The trigger was set at 3.5# out of the box with a fair amount of pre-travel, I removed the stock and dialed the trigger down to 2.5# and no pre-travel, fairly easy to accomplish. While the action was out of the stock I noticed that there were small aluminum bedding blocks or pillars, certainly not a full channel but I would not call it flimsy. The cheek rest was easily set and did not slip. The magazine was a pain to insert but functioned well and did not fall out after 100 rounds of shooting. Once you get the hang of leading with the front edge of the mag while inserting it is not that bad but, still the weakest point of the gun. The mag and action work great with no feeding or extraction problems. I've noticed no degradation of the trigger after 100 rounds live fire and about another 100 dry fire. A pretty good trigger, single stage by the way, not the set trigger.
The gun came with a 5 shot test target at 100 meters that measured 7/8" in a horizontal oblong pattern. A box of Federal Fusion (150 grn) was used to break in the barrel and sight the scope, I was not impressed with the 1" to 1.5" groups @ 100 yds., thought that I had perhaps made a mistake in this purchase. I went home and set the trigger to 2.5# and got a few boxes of Federal Gold Medal 168grn Matchking BTHP and got far superior grouping, basically split between .5" and .75" groups at 100 yds. The scope was a Zeiss Conquest 6.5 x 20 set at 20x. I'll start shooting some more and at longer ranges soon. I like the 750, I shoot targets exclusively and bought this rifle for ultimate accuracy, I think that it fits the bill. Is it a 1/2 MOA gun or better?, who knows I don't think that I am a 1/2 MOA shooter and I'm using factory ammo. The only centerfire rifle that I own that can match its accuracy is a Cooper Model 22 with a fast taper bull barrel in 220 Swift.
Last edited by Snaffle; 11-10-2014 at 07:54 PM.
As an update, I am quite happy with the 750. Shooting single hole groups with Federal Premium (Sierra Matchking BTHP) at 100 yards. No degradation of trigger pull. 200 rounds through the gun. I take it out, shoot a couple of groups that are right on and put it away.