Once fired brass fitment in chamber

Once fired brass fitment in chamber

This is a discussion on Once fired brass fitment in chamber within the Reloading forums, part of the Sniping Related category; A few months back I got myself a tikka t3x ctr in 6.5 and over the last 3 months have been piling up federal gold ...

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  1. #1
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    Question Once fired brass fitment in chamber

    A few months back I got myself a tikka t3x ctr in 6.5 and over the last 3 months have been piling up federal gold medal match ammo to use for it.
    put 200 rounds through my tikka to use fire formed brass to begin reloading, but when I was going to size the brass to fit my chamber I realized that the once fired brass had either not expanded completely throughout the chamber or I am going nuts.
    All of the brass I checked(20 fish pieces) chambered without any resistance and chambered smoothly.
    I am very new to reloading so I am unsure why this is, all of the brass I've fired through my rem700 300 wm has expanded greatly, almost impossible to chamber the brass.
    any thoughts on this?

  2. #2
    Senior Member mike.h's Avatar
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    6.5 CM has a little different shoulder then the .308 or .223. It's not uncommon to use a Lee Collet Die on once fired 6.5 CM brass, and still chamber. After that you will most likely have to full length resize, especially when you start reloading hotter loads.

    The federal gold medal match brass should be good for 3, 4 maybe more, reloads before the primer pockets get loose. Once that brass is used up I would recommend switching to Lapua brass.

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    Ok, to my understanding on your post, your once fired brass fits nicely back in your chamber. And your concern is brass didn't expand. Since your new to reloading I'm going to give you few pointers on that. Based from my 5 years of experience and having consistent velocity and shot placements due to quality ammo.

    1. That is what you want. Your brass did expand and it fits that chamber for that specific rifle.
    2. From this point just size your neck. This will allow you to just place a new bullet to fit nice and snug.
    3. Make shore after neck sizing your still within spec of brass length.
    4. See how far you can seat your bullet, the longer the better. The closer to ogive in your barrel the better. This allows you to have less "bullet jump" before it hits the rifling in your barrel. Also keep in mind that longer bullets may not be able to fit in your magazine. Also keep in mind that your pressure in chamber will slightly increase.
    5. Buy Lapua brass! Use bench rest primers.
    Last edited by Ankas; 09-12-2018 at 09:48 AM. Reason: Extra step.

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    Brass is elastic and after firing it springs back from the chamber walls, and the vast majority of once fired case will rechamber.

    Belted magnums sometimes expand and do not spring back just above the belt and can be hard to chamber or not chamber at all. This has to do with the diameter of the case above the belt and the diameter of the chamber.

    Below is a special die the sizes the belted case just above the belt. And to be clear another brand of brass might not have this problem above the belt. Meaning it has to do with the brass thickness above the belt and the chambers diameter at the same point.

    Belted Magnum Collet Resizing Die

    Innovative Technologies - Reloading Equipment

    Example below, these are rimmed British .303 cases fired in the same chamber. The Prvi Partizan is a larger diameter and thicker in the base web area. The HXP case is smaller in diameter and thinner in the base web area and expanded much more. My guess is your belted magnum cases expanded like the HXP case just above the belt. This a very common problem with belted cases and the special die above will fix the bulge.


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    Senior Member ddd oo7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ankas View Post
    2. From this point just size your neck. This will allow you to just place a new bullet to fit nice and snug.
    4. See how far you can seat your bullet, the longer the better. The closer to ogive in your barrel the better. This allows you to have less "bullet jump" before it hits the rifling in your barrel. Also keep in mind that longer bullets may not be able to fit in your magazine. Also keep in mind that your pressure in chamber will slightly increase.
    Neck sizing is somewhat inconsistent as you will have to eventually full length size. You are better off full length sizing every time and measuring to bump back the shoulder about 0.002” each time.

    Also, loading Long is fine as long as you stay out of the lands. Jamming into the lands will quickly turn a safe load into over pressure load.
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    Senior Member straightshooter1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ddd oo7 View Post
    Neck sizing is somewhat inconsistent as you will have to eventually full length size. You are better off full length sizing every time and measuring to bump back the shoulder about 0.002” each time.
    Why is neck sizing somewhat inconsistent compared to full length sizing?

    Is it because you get that shoulder bumped back to the same place when FL sizing?

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    Senior Member ddd oo7's Avatar
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    Yes. If you neck size, the shoulder moves forward slightly every firing. Then after about four firings the case has to be full length sized and is bumped back a few thousands. That means that the shoulder is in a different place every firing.

    With full length sizing, the shoulder is bumped back the same every time (0.002”). Then the only “odd” firing is with virgin brass.
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    Senior Member straightshooter1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ddd oo7 View Post
    Yes. If you neck size, the shoulder moves forward slightly every firing. Then after about four firings the case has to be full length sized and is bumped back a few thousands. That means that the shoulder is in a different place every firing.

    With full length sizing, the shoulder is bumped back the same every time (0.002”). Then the only “odd” firing is with virgin brass.
    Thanks for your answer. That's what I was thinking.

    I almost never FL size and to address this "somewhat inconsistent" issue, I will bump the shoulder back before neck sizing. Then after neck sizing I run them through my Tri Way trimmer to get them all to the same length. The Tri Way trimmer uses the shoulder for it's stop, so it's important to have the shoulders the same so the brass is all the same length.

    I tried using Forster's Bushing Bump Neck Sizing Die Kit, but wasn't happy with the concentricity the bushings produced. So I don't used it for sizing the neck, but do use it for bumping the shoulders before I size the necks. I know . . . makes for an extra step, but I like keeping the chamber sized brass for my factory barrel.

  10. #9
    Senior Member ddd oo7's Avatar
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    Bushing dies are know for lack of concentricity. They also make a “donut” at the base of the neck after about 4 firings.

    I understand wanting brass to match the chamber. I use custom cut whidden full length non bushing dies. They take three pieces of fired brass from my chamber and make a sizing die that matches my chamber.
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    Below two people who shoot for Team Lapua USA.





    FL Bushing Dies vs. Honed FL Dies
    FL Bushing Dies vs. Honed FL Dies within AccurateShooter.com


    Weekly Gear Update — Forster Honed Dies



    Below the Forster full length benchrest die and their high mounted floating expander. The neck of the case is held and centered in the neck of the die when the expander enters the case neck. This prevents the expander from pulling the necks off center and inducing neck runout. And these die produce the most concentric cases of any off the shelf resizing dies.




    Below my Redding full length .243 die with a modified Forster expander and spindle assembly installed that greatly reduces neck runout. And you are also not dragging the longer Redding expander through the neck with its increased friction and drag on the neck.

    Last edited by bigedp51; 09-13-2018 at 02:59 PM.

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