Rem 700... To true and rebarrel or just to true?

Rem 700... To true and rebarrel or just to true?

This is a discussion on Rem 700... To true and rebarrel or just to true? within the Rifles forums, part of the Sniping Related category; Hey guys i have a quick question that my google fu was not able to hack. I currently own two Rem 700s. One is a ...

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  1. #1
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    Rem 700... To true and rebarrel or just to true?

    Hey guys i have a quick question that my google fu was not able to hack.

    I currently own two Rem 700s. One is a earlier Police in .223 (old but hardly worn) and the second one is a old AND worn VLS in .308. Both finished at 26"

    Now, i need to know if truing the guns and keeping their original barrels in, is a sound idea or if I should go all in and rebarrel both guns with match barrels... I believe both barrels have a lot of life left in them (specially the .223 police) so i guess the question is:


    Do truing the gun makes it more accurate or is it the combination of truing and barrel fitting a match blank that makes the gun fire accurately? (assuming good ammo and shooter work is present of course)

    Im assuming that truing and a new barrel will make a gun accurate all other factors ironed right, but can i get every last one drop of precision from the gun without having to rebarrel? Just by truing?

    I apologize in advance for the copious amounts of usage of the word "truing" and its derivatives hejehe

    thanks!!

  2. #2
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    Do both at same time to take full advantage of accurizing. It's like upgrading your wheels to racing wheels but keeping the econo tires on them.

    Do they currently shoot inaccurately or something?

  3. #3
    Senior Member ddd oo7's Avatar
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    An action cannot be fully trued with the factory barrel. In order to true an action the threads must be recut and to do so means the threads on the existing barrel will be too small.

    If you are going to have the action trued, then you should install a new barrel as well.
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  5. #4
    Senior Member deadshot2's Avatar
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    This is one of those cases where if you aren't prepared to do both, then don't do either. If you only want to do "one" then just have a gunsmith see if he can set the barrel back and touch up the chamber. At least this will give you the benefit of a more reasonable freebore/throat length.

    As was said earlier, you really can't do a good job without doing both.

  6. #5
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    I do tennnnd to agree with most of what's been said about "do both, or don't do either".

    But, I do have a question: The .223 rifle in question. When was it built? The 80's? How many rounds are on it?

    Remington has made some really good barrels in the past, and then screwed them up with chambering reamers designed in the law office, paired to actions that needed another 5 minutes of work on the line, but didn't get it.


    SO.

    If you take the current .223 barrel off, true the action face, bolt face, and locking lugs, then set the barrel back 0.100" and rechamber with a match reamer, there's a good chance you can pick up some accuracy. Is it worth the squeeze? Dunno.

    Either way, if you don't rebarrel, then do NOT let the smith recut the action's threads, because once those are oversized, you can't just slap in the old barrel, as it's threads will be correspondingly too SMALL.



    Don't mess with the .308. Just wait til it dies, and rebarrel with a Bartlein or Krieger.

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  7. #6
    Senior Member deadshot2's Avatar
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    One thing worth adding is that PTG makes a nice Action truing kit that will allow one to true the action, including the barrel threads, without oversizing them.

    Not the traditional method where the action is chucked up on lathe but one that uses piloted reamers and a pilot guided tap that trues the threads so that at least most of them line up with the axis. The tool set is a little expensive for the average DIY'er but if one can find a gunsmith with the kit it can do a reasonable job in less time than it takes to chuck an action up, dial it in, and then single point re-cut the threads oversized. Since time equals money/cost, this would be a more economical way to accomplish basic truing. The big issue is how true the face of the action is where the shoulder of the barrel indexes and it's important to remember that only one side of the threads take any load anyway. As long as they are "mostly straight" you are a lot better off than with the factory cut threads where quantity tends to rule over quality.

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    Going with the Barrel fitting and truing on the .223. Gonna leave the .308 as is for a while.

    Question. Just for kicks today i inserted a PTG one piece bolt (.223 bolt face) on the .223 700 Police. Just wanted to see how it would look but i was surprised to see the thing close without any effort... Almost TOO loose on the action.

    Is it a newb "it will be ok once its true" thing or is something off here? When i say loose i do mean almost no contact.

  9. #8
    Senior Member deadshot2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.F View Post
    Question. Just for kicks today i inserted a PTG one piece bolt (.223 bolt face) on the .223 700 Police. Just wanted to see how it would look but i was surprised to see the thing close without any effort... Almost TOO loose on the action.

    Is it a newb "it will be ok once its true" thing or is something off here? When i say loose i do mean almost no contact.
    There are two kinds of "loose" with a bolt. First is how well it fits the inside of the action. How much clearance between the bolt body and the inside of the action. When the bolt handle is raised and the bolt pulled back slightly how much can it be moved up/down/sideways. How does it cycle from fully retracted to ready to lock? If a bolt is really loose in the boltway it can often jam when fully back as it can get cock-eyed. Should be only a few thousandths clearance.

    Second kind of "loose" is the actual headspace. When the lugs are locked on a cartridge there should be nominal clearance or the case will stretch too much. A quick check that will give you an idea of how far off the headspace it might be is to take a case that was fired in that rifle, put a piece of scotch tape on it, chamber it, and then see if the bolt will close. If you feel some drag at this point you really don't have excessive headspace and it should be safe to shoot. If it's still loose add a piece of tape and try again. If you have to repeat this more than twice, adding more than two layers of scotch tape. DO NOT Fire the rifle with that bolt. This method is more a "Field Expedient" than an exact method but will give you an idea where you are with headspace. BTW, make sure you are using a stripped bolt with the ejector pin/spring removed. Otherwise they add effort to the bolt closing and can give one a false indication when measuring headspace.

    When you replace the barrel include the new bolt with the rifle when you take it to the gunsmith. He will set the headspace to the new bolt so you really won't need to worry.

  10. #9
    MOA
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    Can't you just set the barrel back a inch and recut larger threads? NOTE- I am not advising to do this on a factory barrel, just a academic question. That would give you a clean chamber cut to better tolerances and a throat that won't take a bullet seated .25 past mag length to reach.

  11. #10
    Senior Member deadshot2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MOA View Post
    Can't you just set the barrel back a inch and recut larger threads? NOTE- I am not advising to do this on a factory barrel, just a academic question. That would give you a clean chamber cut to better tolerances and a throat that won't take a bullet seated .25 past mag length to reach.

    The answer to whether or not a barrel can be cut back an inch really depends on several factors. What caliber, what profile on the barrell, how much extra metal before the contour begins at the breech end, and what condition the throat end of the lands are in.

    If you "push" the chamber too far forward with some lighter barrel profiles you can have insufficient support for the pressure generated at the mouth of the cartridge.

    Factory barrels may not be able to loose an inch. Some custom barrels are purposely finished with an extra inch or so of "parallel" at the breech end so what you described can be done without compromising the barrel's strength.

    Caliber will make a difference as well. If you're doing this with a .223 barrel you may get away with it easier than let's say a .338 Lapua Magnum. That extra 1/8" of metal could make the difference.

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