This is a discussion on Scope Mounting/position and other questions for new setup within the SOP forums, part of the Sniping Related category; Hello everyone. New member here, basically a new guy. Just posted in the Introductions forum. Now it is time to increase my post count by ...
New member here, basically a new guy. Just posted in the Introductions forum. Now it is time to increase my post count by 50% by posting again!
Here's my LMT MWS .308 that I've just mounted a NF ATACR 4-16x on.
I've set my eye relief well I think, and I get a good image from prone to supported using the full magnification range.
I used Nightforce's recommended torque specs. I used 25 ft/lbs for the rings, a smidge over my 65 ft/lbs setting (between the 65 and 70 ft/lb settings on my torque wrench) for as close to 68 ft/lbs as I could get it for the Unimount screws.
I leveled it using bubble levelers, one on the rail and one on top of the turret cap, and because of my OCD it took me forever, because as I torqued the scope ring screws the scope would minutely rotate until I figured out that I would keep the bubble levels on the rifle/scope as I carefully torqued the ring screws.
I used 25ft/lbs to torque the Vortex bubble onto the scope, is this appropriate?
My scope is mounted a bit forward in the mount. Normally for the sake of attempted perfection I'd move the scope mount forward a bit and reposition the scope so that the forward rings are not as close to the turret housing, but it took me so long to mount it with the proper bubble leveling and eye relief, that I don't want to take it apart and then have to spend another 2 hours to mount it back all level and with the same eye relief :roll:...but if I have to do it I'll do it. I also tried to have the gap between the upper and lower ring pieces even on both sides, and I think it is pretty good, but I didn't use feel gauges or anything.
So, is the scope acceptably positioned in the rings?
Am I too close to the turret housing?
Do I need to get more anal about the gap in the rings, which seems pretty even using my eyeballs, and break out some feeler gauges?
If it looks good to go, it will be good news cause I can then go and zero it.
One last line of questioning.
I have access to an indoor 100yard range. Since the reticle/turrets are mil based, normally I'd zero at 100m so that the scope adjustments and holdovers are accurate. Since 100yards is 91.44 meters, what should I do when I'm zeroing?
I'll be using IMI 175gr match ammo.
Once zeroed I'm planning on using mainly holdovers and not doing a lot of dialing btw.
Here's the Rifle:
I'm planning on finding some areas in North Arizona to try and shoot steel out to maybe 800. I've only shot out to 600 before, with a Burris XTR II 1-5x on a 5.56 gun, so I'm looking forward for some .308 fun.
Last edited by DacoRoman; 03-23-2020 at 02:11 PM.
Last edited by gpark09; 03-25-2020 at 01:14 PM.
I am sure you know this, but all of the torque settings that you are talking about should be inch pounds, not foot pounds. However, if you had actually used foot pounds, you probably would have broken screws.
Desert Tech SRS A1 with TS Customs 308 win, 22 CM, and 7 LRM barrels
Primal Rights 40x .22LR Repeater
NRA LIFE MEMBER
got in touch with Vortex, even for the 34 mm bubble they do recommend 8-10 in/lbs, but they said that 15lbs will be gtg too, when I told them that I loosened from the initial 25lbs DOH! and re-torqued for 15 lbs