Removing Rings - Page 2

Removing Rings

This is a discussion on Removing Rings within the Technical Problems forums, part of the SniperForums.com & SniperCentral.com Related category; Forgot to mention it earlier but if anyone is trying to remove a scope ring screw and has stripped out the socket head, be it ...

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Thread: Removing Rings

  1. #11
    Senior Member deadshot2's Avatar
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    Forgot to mention it earlier but if anyone is trying to remove a scope ring screw and has stripped out the socket head, be it hex or torqx, there is a solution that works well if you're patient.

    First scratch up the inside of the socket with a sharp pointed awl or such. Get as much rough metal exposed as possible inside the socket head. Then take the allen or torqx wrench that originally fit the head. Mix up some J-B Weld and put a very small amount on the end of the wrench. Insert it in the socket head and if there isn't a small amount squishing out around the wrench then add a small amount more. Once you have the end of the wrench firmly bedded in the screw head socket then let it cure until it's reached full strength. Usually 24 hours but I go a whole 2 days to really make sure. More often than not the wrench will now remove the screw without striping out he head again. The J-B Weld "makes them one". Of course you'll need as many wrenches as you have stuck screws with this method.

  2. #12
    Member BarbarianHorde's Avatar
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    I'm not trying to start a grudge match by any means, but a couple of those that suggested applying blue Loctite after they were torqued down are quite experienced which is the only reason I did it, otherwise I would've just torqued them down and been done with it. They actually are torqued to spec but they're still not willing to budge at all.

  3. #13
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    Shoot, I used to myself. Being a mechanic in my spare time, and as one of many ex-professions, in any good shop, I see a need for multiple grades of threadlocker and Rockset, and I also see a need for at least 1 grade of anti-seize lubricant (I use ceramic grade because, though expensive, I use very little at a time and it is flat-out excellent insurance that I won't ever gall a bolt...I'm not working with NASA).

    Then I had to use a slitting saw to cut rings off a guy's scope, and I said to myself..."There's a better way, somehow."

    I did some research on steel, aluminum, expansion coefficients, torque values, thread distortion, thread classifications, and more drivel, and came up with this:

    If you have enough clamping area in the rings and enough and big enough machine screws for the application, even if they are all acetone-clean, if the fasteners are torqued to correct specification, it will hold up.


    -Nate
    GMinor and exsimguy1 like this.
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  5. #14
    Sponsors Orkan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BarbarianHorde View Post
    I'm not trying to start a grudge match by any means, but a couple of those that suggested applying blue Loctite after they were torqued down are quite experienced which is the only reason I did it,
    How's that advice from those "experienced" guys workin out for ya?

    I kid, I kid.

  6. #15
    Member treedog's Avatar
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    What brand and model of scope ring ? I know you said TPS I mean the exact model n how much ?

  7. #16
    Senior Member deadshot2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BarbarianHorde View Post
    I'm not trying to start a grudge match by any means, but a couple of those that suggested applying blue Loctite after they were torqued down are quite experienced which is the only reason I did it, otherwise I would've just torqued them down and been done with it. They actually are torqued to spec but they're still not willing to budge at all.
    If the loctite was applied AFTER the screws were torqued chances are you've only "glued" the ends of he fasteners. Loctite can "wick" it's way into an assembly but my guess is that you have loctite that's basically glued the screw head in the recess. I'd continue with some acetone soaking and patience. Even some direct heat like the soldering iron would break a loctite bond.

    You may also have another issue that often occurs when metals get wet. Corrosion welding. You have a steel screw in most likely an aluminum ring body. Water and dissimilar metals create electrolysis and with a small screw it doesn't take much to "weld" the two pieces together.

    Acetone, point heating, and a heaping dose of patience.


    As for the loctite, no loctite question? There are several types of loctite. Most people have a tube of "Blue" which is intended for 1/4" fasteners or larger. IF one were to use any loctite on a scope ring they should only use the 222 "Purple" which is designed to allow hand tools for removal. It's designed for instrument adjustment screws.
    It has the added benefit of sealing the threads so if they get wet you don't have the possible issue of corrosion.

    You have to look beyond the word "Loctite" and use the right color. Heaven forbid one should use "Red". For all practical purposes that loctite is a permanent bond.
    Orkan likes this.

  8. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by deadshot2 View Post
    Acetone, point heating, and a heaping dose of patience.
    I think this is your best route, before having to cut them off. Point heating is definitely more desirable than a hair dryer. Do NOT trust your leupold to survive the hair dryer.

  9. #18
    Member BarbarianHorde's Avatar
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    I see that I left that bit out, I did use blue locktite because I know red locktite is permanent, I actually applied the locktite directly to the threads before I torqued them down.

  10. #19
    Member BarbarianHorde's Avatar
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    Hey guy’s good news! I got the bolts out, I was worried I was going to need to use a tap and die set, but I TOTALLY forgot I had purchased a S&W gunsmithing set a couple of years ago and it had a complete set of star bits, so I used a power drill and it popped them out without any resistance whatsoever which surprised me to be completely honest. Anyways so a new question now that they’re out, is there anything I can use on the bolts in addition to the threads to remove the excess locktite? There’s still quite a bit caked on the threads of the rings as well as the screws which is a clear sign I used a bit too much but that’s already been established lol.. I figured something like acetone would break it down but I’m not sure if that would eat through the finish or not, so I figured it would be best to ask before I try anything too terribly extreme.

  11. #20
    Member treedog's Avatar
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    You might try getting a paper towel , tearing off sections and twisting them into long thin pieces . Dip them into nail polish remover
    and run it thru , twist it thru the threaded holes . You will probably have to do this several times to clean them up . As for hurting the
    finish , take one of your top rings and try a small test spot on the bottom side of the mounting flange ( the flat portion that the screw goes
    thru ) . They should be powder coated , pretty tough stuff .

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