Removing Rings

Removing Rings

This is a discussion on Removing Rings within the Technical Problems forums, part of the SniperForums.com & SniperCentral.com Related category; Hey guy's I'm having an issue removing the rings from my Leupold MK4, I have a set of TPS 30mm TSR Picatinny-Style Steel Rings on ...

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 29
Like Tree3Likes

Thread: Removing Rings

  1. #1
    Member BarbarianHorde's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Seattle Washington
    Posts
    54

    Removing Rings

    Hey guy's I'm having an issue removing the rings from my Leupold MK4, I have a set of TPS 30mm TSR Picatinny-Style Steel Rings on there right now, the scope has a minor defect so I have to send it in for repair/replacement. Anyways when I first mounted it to the rifle several people suggested putting blue Loctite on the threads of the small bolts (not sure if they're called bolts) that thread through the top/bottom rings. It takes an extremely small hex and I have the proper one but I've wrenched on it pretty hard and I still haven't been able to break them loose so I was wondering if you guys might have any advice? I was thinking about going to the local hardware store to see if I could find the hex set for a socket wrench that way I would have a bit more leverage but I'm a bit worried about stripping them out. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Sponsors Orkan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    6,268
    Quote Originally Posted by BarbarianHorde View Post
    several people suggested putting blue Loctite on the threads of the small bolts (not sure if they're called bolts) that thread through the top/bottom rings.
    ... and that's why you want to only take advice from experienced people. Not a one of my rings has loctite on the threads.

    You have a couple options here. Try to find a very tight-fitting wrench to interface the screws. This will help make sure you don't strip the interface out. If that doesn't work, and you still strip one out, you may be able to get some larger wrenches and epoxy them to the top of the screws.

    If that doesn't work, you might be forced to go in from the side of the rings with a cutting tool of some kind, like a dremel, and carefully grind away until the screws on either side are cut. This will take a steady hand, or your scope will pay the price. Mask off the scope as well as possible before going after it.

  3. #3
    Senior Member ddd oo7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Memphis, TN
    Posts
    5,082
    you might be able to put it in a drill press vice and drill the heads off of the bolts. Rings would be ruined, but scope should be fine.

    I have used a compound before that has diamond dust that goes in the head of the screw to keep it from stripping. It works well even on partially stripped screws. it is called "screw grab"

    Or you can send it back to leupold like it is and see if they will fix it with the rings on...or get them off for you.
    Desert Tech SRS A1 with TS Customs 308 win, 22 CM, and 7 LRM barrels
    Primal Rights 40x .22LR Repeater
    NRA LIFE MEMBER
    Hidden Content

  4. Remove Advertisements
    SniperForums.com
    Advertisements
     

  5. #4
    Administrator
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    5,234
    Easy guys, no need to grab the hatchets yet.

    1) In good light...and with some light gloves on, put the rifle in a vice.
    2) Get the right size hex or torx. Check with the good light to make sure you aren't getting "wiggle".
    3) Use a good, hot blow drier to heat the crap out of the side of the ring you want to start on, and leave the tool in the screw head while you heat.
    4) Holding the torx/hex tool DOWN in the screw head with your weak hand, apply pressure with the strong hand until the screw breaks loose.
    5) Repeat as needed.

    6) In the future, clean off all the goo, and just use the correct torque settings on your bolts. The only thing I apply to my threads is white-grade anti-seize to prevent water intrusion, corrosion, and galling.

    I take my scope mounting very seriously, and I've yet to have one come loose whose rings I was sure I had torqued down properly. Yes, this requires tools.


    Protip: Once you've installed a given scope in a given set of rings, and torqued the screws properly, you can MARK THE SCREWS and RINGS with a scribe or paint marker, and the next time you have to remove it, you won't need a torque wrench. Same can be applied to action screws, if the rifle is well bedded.

    -Nate
    NRA A2 Service Rifle High Master XTC
    NRA A2 Service Rifle Expert LR
    President's Hundred
    US Distinguished Rifleman
    NRA Silhouette AA

  6. #5
    Senior Member TheF***ingNewGuy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    West Virginia
    Posts
    402
    Heat up the rings a little, that should soften the Loctite up a little bit. A heat gun from the hardware store on low with the scope protected will do the job.
    "You can get much farther with a kind word and a gun than you can with a kind word alone." - Al Capone

    "If someone kills you with your own gun, they better have to beat you to death with it because at that point, it should be empty." -Unknown

  7. #6
    Member treedog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Levittown , Pa.
    Posts
    96
    It is very important that you are torqueing to spec . ( some where around 15 inch pounds which is less than nothing ) if you are
    using blue Loctite .If you over torque and use Loctite you got problems .
    Get a que tip swap and some nail polish remover , acetone is what is used to neutralize red Loctite when this happens . It will neutralize
    blue as well . Flip the scope rings upside down and dab the bottom of the hole with a q tip that is slightly wet with acetone .
    Leave it sit repeat 20 minutes or so . Wipe excess . Get a hair dryer and heat until it is hot to the touch ( as in 1 to 2 seconds is what

  8. #7
    Member treedog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Levittown , Pa.
    Posts
    96
    as in 1-2 seconds is what you can take ) you may not get that but try . The heat will loosen it further .

  9. #8
    Senior Member deadshot2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Upper Left Corner
    Posts
    4,851
    Quote Originally Posted by natdscott View Post
    Easy guys, no need to grab the hatchets yet.

    1) In good light...and with some light gloves on, put the rifle in a vice.
    2) Get the right size hex or torx. Check with the good light to make sure you aren't getting "wiggle".
    3) Use a good, hot blow drier to heat the crap out of the side of the ring you want to start on, and leave the tool in the screw head while you heat.
    4) Holding the torx/hex tool DOWN in the screw head with your weak hand, apply pressure with the strong hand until the screw breaks loose.
    5) Repeat as needed.

    6) In the future, clean off all the goo, and just use the correct torque settings on your bolts. The only thing I apply to my threads is white-grade anti-seize to prevent water intrusion, corrosion, and galling.

    I take my scope mounting very seriously, and I've yet to have one come loose whose rings I was sure I had torqued down properly. Yes, this requires tools.


    Protip: Once you've installed a given scope in a given set of rings, and torqued the screws properly, you can MARK THE SCREWS and RINGS with a scribe or paint marker, and the next time you have to remove it, you won't need a torque wrench. Same can be applied to action screws, if the rifle is well bedded.

    -Nate
    All of the above plus a little top on a very controllable heat source. You can use the tip of a soldering gun to apply heat directly to the screw head or if you prefer, more indirectly through the hex wrench body closest to the head. If Loctite has been used often some of it's grip can be loosened by applying a drop of Acetone to the screw socket and also any opening on the bottom ring where it might flow into the threads through capillary action. Acetone evaporates pretty quickly so you might do this several times before going to the "heat". I prefer the soldering gun method to any other that might spread the heat beyond the area I'm working, like the scope body itself. Heat guns can get hot enough to melt paint (which is what I use mine for).

    I'd also add that the OP should make absolutely sure that the screw heads are hex, not torqx or vice versa. Using the right tool is always better and sometimes is a solution in itself.

  10. #9
    Sponsors Orkan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    6,268
    Careful with hair dryers around leupold scopes.

    Had a guy have his leupold take a shit on him because of that. The heat loosened up some epoxy on the inside of the scope, and ended up with some parts flopping around in there.

    Who said hatchet? lol

    That had me laughing.

  11. #10
    Senior Member deadshot2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Upper Left Corner
    Posts
    4,851
    Quote Originally Posted by Orkan View Post
    Careful with hair dryers around leupold scopes.

    Not just Leupold's.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Ads

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Similar Threads

  1. Removing scope base - Help!
    By JCinPA in forum Rifles
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 05-08-2011, 09:37 PM
  2. Removing some krylon
    By Ddvant01 in forum DIY
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 03-03-2010, 07:21 PM
  3. Removing gunkote?
    By BigBoy_30-378 in forum Misc.
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 02-01-2009, 10:38 AM
  4. Removing Sights
    By dave743 in forum Rifles
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 04-02-2007, 07:18 PM
  5. Removing a Barrel
    By talking_target in forum DIY
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 04-18-2005, 02:05 AM