bipod mounting problem - Page 2

bipod mounting problem

This is a discussion on bipod mounting problem within the Technical Problems forums, part of the SniperForums.com & SniperCentral.com Related category; im kinda weary of removing the stock because i was told it might not shoot straight after idk any ideas...

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Thread: bipod mounting problem

  1. #11
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    im kinda weary of removing the stock because i was told it might not shoot straight after idk any ideas

  2. #12
    Administrator Ravenblack's Avatar
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    Make sure it's clean & no FOD gets in when fitting the stock back on, then torque it up to the correct setting & it should be fine.
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  3. #13
    Senior Member deadshot2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orkan View Post
    I have several rifles with that setup... no issues. Granted I don't beat them up much either, but it is certainly good enough for most people's use.

    I tend to look long term. The Tee Nut is what's recommended but I suppose one could just get by with a screw in. I just remember the old saying "Why is it that we never have time to do it right but always have the time to do it over?"

    The wood-screw type are really only meant for use with a sling. A bipod attachment can put a lot of direct tension on the screw and if it's pulled out it takes a lot of wood with it.

    Just saying.

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  5. #14
    Senior Member gsmithplm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orkan View Post
    I have several rifles with that setup... no issues. Granted I don't beat them up much either, but it is certainly good enough for most people's use.
    Would the addition of a little epoxy be appropriate or is that overkill?
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  6. #15
    Senior Member deadshot2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gsmithplm View Post
    Would the addition of a little epoxy be appropriate or is that overkill?
    Epoxy alone wouldn't be much help by itself. It's the larger surface area of the "Tee-Nut" that provides the benefit. Epoxy would just make the screw "non-removable" but not reinforce the wood.

    Note: There are huge variations in wood quality and density in rifle stocks. If you look at an inexpensive hunting rifle stock it may be made from a wood that isn't much more dense than the grain of a 2X4. Others use exotic woods like Walnut, Maple, and others, often selected for the beauty of their grain structure and hardness. If the stud is screwed into a stock that has wood nearly as hard and strong as a block of metal that's one thing. I've worked with some woods that are so hard you have to literally tap the hole to get a screw to go into it without breaking off while screwing it it. Stocks similar to that used on Ruger 10/22's are entirely different..
    Last edited by deadshot2; 07-17-2014 at 09:10 AM.

  7. #16
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    Thinking of the epoxy on this. It my help some depending on what epoxy is used as some soak in...the downside is if it does pull out any wood that it soaked into will likely come with it. A Tee-nut would be the better way for sure.

    And like Ravenblack said you'll be fine as long as you put it back together right...

  8. #17
    Super Moderator Arkansas89's Avatar
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    Or if you are really not comfortable doing the job yourself, if you have the money to buy all the hardware to do it right...you have the money to pay most gunsmiths to install one for you. It is by no means an expensive or time intensive task.
    "Even a fool, when he holdeth his peace, is counted wise: and he that shutteth his lips is esteemed a man of understanding."
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  9. #18
    Senior Member deadshot2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arkansas89 View Post
    Or if you are really not comfortable doing the job yourself, if you have the money to buy all the hardware to do it right...you have the money to pay most gunsmiths to install one for you. It is by no means an expensive or time intensive task.
    True, if you don't mind waiting for the 'smith to get around to doing the work. Most of them here are backed up that an afternoon DIY project will end up separating you and your rifle for 10 weeks or more.

  10. #19
    Super Moderator Arkansas89's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by deadshot2 View Post
    True, if you don't mind waiting for the 'smith to get around to doing the work. Most of them here are backed up that an afternoon DIY project will end up separating you and your rifle for 10 weeks or more.
    Wouldn't have to be done local though...most things I have done are just a few day turn around. Time between shipping the rifle/parts out and getting them back is 1-2 weeks for most things
    "Even a fool, when he holdeth his peace, is counted wise: and he that shutteth his lips is esteemed a man of understanding."
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  11. #20
    Senior Member deadshot2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arkansas89 View Post
    Wouldn't have to be done local though...most things I have done are just a few day turn around. Time between shipping the rifle/parts out and getting them back is 1-2 weeks for most things
    I guess my point is that there are some tasks that make sense for a gun owner to learn how to do themselves. Add the shipping expense to event he best "turn around" time and to me it makes no sense to send work like adding a sling stud out. Not when the cost of materials is less than that of the shipping alone.

    On the other hand I keep forgetting that I grew up in an age when people weren't as afraid of tools like many in this current era. I guess that's why good gunsmiths are getting so busy and so many not so good gunsmiths are getting in the business.

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