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Discussion Starter #1
Like the post says.... I noticed at the end of the fall my actions screws were a little out of spec so I order new ones from Savage for my 10FCP-k . I can't get the old ones out. I tried grinding down a larger hex key but that was like taking a cat for a swim sounds like a good idea then it falls to pieces.

JB wield and sacrifice a hex key?

Why would they stretch? In too tight? What would a good torgue setting be?
 

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Did you use loctite? if you did...don't do that again.

if the stock is pillar bedded you can torque them to 60-65 in/lb. If it is not bedded then 45-55 in/lb is plenty. Keep in mind these are INCH pounds...not FOOT pounds.

as far as getting the old ones out...you might try a metric wrench to see if it fits tighter. I can't imagine the screw "swelling" to the point that you couldn't get a wrench in the head.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No locktight I think I stretched them by have the rifle apart and maybe slightly over tightening. I tried standard and metric. Going to get a few extra hexes and maybe back it out with a grabit if that doesn't work I will find a screw extractor. Anyone ever try welding a hex key with JB weld.
 

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Anyone ever try welding a hex key with JB weld.
More times than I want to admit. Works good if you let the JB cure fully. I wouldn't try to remove the action screw until it cured at least a full day.


A tip for the next screws. To make sure you are getting a hex wrench bit with full dimensions at the end, try grinding off the first 1/8" or so. Do it slow so you don't overheat and remove temper. I've noticed over the years that a lot of wrenches look like they've been cut with a shear and the tips don't fit totally snug but with a little ground off they do.

You may be able to remover the screws without JB if you first insert an allen wrench and then use a freshly ground center punch to "stake" the metal in around the wrench. Put the fresh point about the half-way point between edge and wrench, give it a good strike to dimple the metal and repeat for each flat. This process may also loosen the screw in the bottom metal. Worth a try and if it doesn't get the job done you can still go the JB route.
 

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Worse case you can put the rifle in a drill press and drill the heads off. Then use a pair of vice grips to remove the screw. But that's a last resort.
^^this is what I would do. I can tell this guy has had some issues with stubborn bolts. I don't miss being a mechanic.
 

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I tried grinding down a larger hex key but ...

JB wield and sacrifice a hex key?

Why would they stretch? In too tight? What would a good torgue setting be?
JB weld and a dremel cut off wheel means you sacrifice only 3/32 of the allen wrench.

Bolt stretch combined with a bit of corrosion makes for lots of disassembly trouble.
 

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You might also try using a punch either slightly smaller than the proper hex key or a punch much larger than the proper hex key. Put it on the end of your action screw and give it a good wack with a metal hammer. You should have a feel for these kinds of things before you attempt this approach. You don't want to pretend you're driving a rail road spike. But you do want a good hit sufficient to shock the bolt and possibly make it easy to extract. Don't peen or other wise booger up the end of the action screw to the point you can't insert a hex key. If you doubt your ability, don't try this. If it doesn't work after the first two whacks, stop.

If you have a good heavy duty soldering iron, you could try putting some heat into the head of the screw. Of course, you can screw this up too if you are careless. Just because you can use a propane torch on your car's shock absorber mounting bolt does NOT mean a propane torch is a good idea for your gun. If you don't have an appropriate soldering iron, forget about it. Stop before your stock bursts into flames.
 

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have you tried soaking it with Kroil? If it is a Remington you can get to the rear action screw from the top of the action...and I think the front one goes all the way through too. Kroil, Hilco Lube, PB blaster...any of those three should loosen the corrosion. Don't know why I didn't think of this earlier. I carry Kroil in my cleaning kit with my rifle.
 

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I had the problem with my savage 111 lrh, tried all makes and size hex keys. ended up drilling off heads and some grinding to get them off
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update.

I got them out. One gave me trouble and the second was very easy.

The rear bolt I tapped a torx bit into the bit ok more than a tap but too hard then a rachet drive took it out in 2 minutes.

The front action screw was called every name in the book before it moved. I tried using a back out tool but the screws were hard and it didn't work. Will a little help from a buddy I used a cold chisel and tapped it at 45 degree angle, pushing always counter clockwise. It took about an hour but it moved a half turn then an allen key got it out.

I put in the new screws and Brownells and the front screw they had list on their site was too long. I called Savage and got their online store. They are sending me 2 front action screws and 2 rear actions screw. No cost even across the border to Canada and expired warranty . The phone guy said that even thought the warranty was up on the gun Savage will send some of these things out for goodwill. Good will indeed! Thanks to Savage! A bucks really made me feel better since I had to put 2 new rotors and brakes on the truck.

In two weeks I will have my rifle back. I might get a new rail as the 20 moa one I have in ok but feels like a 10 moa base if you know what I mean. What's good out there for 100 US?
 
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