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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Hey guys, thanks for the replies!

I used a fatwrench to torque everything down according to Vortex specs, and I used 2 small levels on the rifle/scope to try and keep it as level as possible. I am using cheap .308 ammo, match grade ammo is on the way.

The rings are the Vortex tactical rings, not my first choice for a precision bolt gun but meh.

I am considering bringing it to a local gunsmith to have it gone over. I have been able to check the barrel and it is free of any contact with the stock, so that's not it.

It is driving me nuts lol.

I just ordered a Ruger Precision Rifle in .223 so this might go on the for sale with gremlins page lol.
 

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Don't waste a good rifle lol... according to your own description, you didn't have the problem until you removed the scope and hardware... there is a VERY HIGH probability it's just something minor or goofy. Just my 2 cents:)

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Don't waste a good rifle lol... according to your own description, you didn't have the problem until you removed the scope and hardware... there is a VERY HIGH probability it's just something minor or goofy. Just my 2 cents:)

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Are there any screws that could be threading down into the action and pushing on the bolt or something similar... a friend of mine made that error on his Remington, the screws he used were too long, just long enough that they skewed the action of his bolt... I don't know how he didn't feel it

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The op said he had trouble getting a good sight picture, take the rig to a gunsmith and have him watch you get in a shooting position. You may need to cut stock or add to get your length of pull right, an adjustable butt would help also an ajusrable cheek piece. A natural point of aim is crucial, you should be able to close your eyes take a few deep breaths open your eyes and your crosshairs should still be on target. With a good natural point of aim, after you send the shot you should still be on target or very close to it after recoil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
The op said he had trouble getting a good sight picture, take the rig to a gunsmith and have him watch you get in a shooting position. You may need to cut stock or add to get your length of pull right, an adjustable butt would help also an ajusrable cheek piece. A natural point of aim is crucial, you should be able to close your eyes take a few deep breaths open your eyes and your crosshairs should still be on target. With a good natural point of aim, after you send the shot you should still be on target or very close to it after recoil.

The problem with attaining a good sight picture only occurs when I dial up the magnification. I've not run into this issue before but I believe 100% that the problem is the shooter currently sitting behind the rig lol!

I think at this point, I need to take it to someone that knows what they are doing so they can un-fix my idea of how I fixed it lol.

Thanks for all the great tips and advice from everyone.
 

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The problem with attaining a good sight picture only occurs when I dial up the magnification. I've not run into this issue before but I believe 100% that the problem is the shooter currently sitting behind the rig lol!

I think at this point, I need to take it to someone that knows what they are doing so they can un-fix my idea of how I fixed it lol.

Thanks for all the great tips and advice from everyone.[/QUOTE]

The stock must fit you. If you need to move your head backward or forward or up or down or side to side to get a sight picture you're just wasting ammo. All the match ammo in the world won't help of you're not practicing the fundamentals and to do that properly the gun must fit you. It will help you get your head aligned properly with the scope consistently. Cranking the magnification up only magnifies mistakes in your sight picture.
 

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Depending on the scope...cranking the magnification up changes the eye relief. This is true with the vast majority of low to mid range scopes and even some high end scopes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
The stock must fit you. If you need to move your head backward or forward or up or down or side to side to get a sight picture you're just wasting ammo. All the match ammo in the world won't help of you're not practicing the fundamentals and to do that properly the gun must fit you. It will help you get your head aligned properly with the scope consistently. Cranking the magnification up only magnifies mistakes in your sight picture.
Since I have purchased the rifle I have tried to tinker with it in little ways; I've added a pad to the stock in order to allow me to get a more effective cheek weld. I really have a hard time getting my head set up on this rig.

When I shoot prone I put the rifle on bags and settle in behind it without disturbing the NPOA of the gun itself. I make sure that I have a good pocket for the stock and set myself up like I have on other platforms. I also have a hard time managing the recoil on this rifle, I really think the problem, aside from my lack of skill, is that I just don't fit the stock.

I was only half joking when I was talking about getting a Ruger Precision Rifle, the modular stock allows me to manipulate it to fit me rather than having to try and manipulate my body to fit the gun.

I am going to try to get with one of the local Arizona guys that shoots and have him critique the rifle and my forms, I think that might offer me more help than just trying to figure it out on my own.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Depending on the scope...cranking the magnification up changes the eye relief. This is true with the vast majority of low to mid range scopes and even some high end scopes.
I am currently using Vortex Optics - Viper HS 2.5-10x44 Dead-Hold BDC which isn't the best optic by any stretch of the imagination, but I'm not sure that it's more responsible for my lack of success than I am to be honest.

Thanks!
 
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