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Discussion Starter #1
I recently bought a new Remington Sendero with a stainless and fluted barrel. This is my first "new" gun. I have a few questions about breaking the barrel in. I got the gun back from Briley today after getting a muzzle brake installed and the trigger set. I then took it to the range this evening to shoot it. What is the proper way to "break" a barrel in. I shot it 5 times then cleaned the bore real good. I did this 5 shots and clean for a full box of factory loads.

By the way. One set of my 5 shots and clean produced a cloverleafed hole at 100 yards. I was very impressed for it being a brand new out the box rifle.

One last thing, how many shots before the barrel is "broke" in.

Thank you in advance for all replies and advice.
 

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One of many theories: Shoot one & clean 10 times for total of 10 shots. Shoot 2 & clean 5 times for a total of 10 shots. Shoot 3 & clean 3 times for a total of 9 shots. Grand total so far 29 shots. If you are still coppering after each set of 3 shots, keep at it until it stops or you run out of $$$ or ammo or both.

Some rifles foul more than others. My A-gunner has a new Hart barrel on their Remington VS .308. Never fouled after the first 5 singles. during break-in.

My 700 PSS fouled like crazy, but shot that way too. :D
 

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I ussually clean ever five for the first 25...then I just clean every 25 to 50. I never really have been worried about break in and some people have told me not to even worry about the first 25....but its not like it takes that long.....until I read some concrete proof and not someones opinion I will continue to do it that way out of habbit.

Speaking of a barrell ...remingtin 700 in 308.....im looking for a 20 inch fluted....thoughts?
 

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Flea

Other than weight savings, is there a reason for going fluted? 20 inches is fairly short and will be incredibly stiff if you get a Sniper / target taper (anywhere from #6 to #8 depending upon the manufacturer). Fluting will reduce that stiffness, but make it lighter to haul through the bush.
 

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Jeffvn:

Other then weight savings and barrel cooling...not really... recently we have been going up alot of stairways for many....many many..floors and I would like to get it as short and light as possible. It already has the folding stock and that helps keep it smaller when its slung but doesn't do anything for weight.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Guys,

Thanks for the advice. It looks like what I did last night was the right thing to do. I can't wait to go back out on Saturday morning and break my other rifle in.

Please give your thoughts on this situation. My other rifle is an old 25-06 that i have had for a long time. I had everything re-blued. What is the proper break-in for this one?

Jeff, If your at ASC saturday morning look for the guy with the big grin from ear to ear with the stainless sendero. That will be me. I tell you though, at $40 a box for 300 RUM factory loads it doesnt take long to feel each shot in the wallet. But it sure is fun.

Thanks again for the advice.
 

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BBl Break in period.- Fluted or not fluted-that is the quest

:D Morning guys: looks like another fine day to spend at the range!

Badshot: Unless the barrel is hand lapped, I would highly recomend a good breakin period. Since it is new from remington, it is NOT lapped.
The lapping process is easy and very helpful to the life of your barrel. What it does is by lapping it takes all the rough edges off the lands and groves. Smooths everything in there out, Just like your bullets would do in time. Lapping is just MUCH faster about it. Clean your barrel out real good, then take your caliber cleaning jag, wrap a clean patch around it, put some 400 grit valve grinding compound on the patch, and run it through the barrel for 10 strokes.[20 if you counting up as one stroke]
I always count up and back as one stroke. Then clean your barrel AND CHAMBER real good, and start again with 600 grit compound. Do the same thing as before, clean it again, and finnish up with 800 grit compound. Clean it real good again, run a patch with oil on it, dry patch it, then go to the range and fire 10-15 rounds through it to settle everything in, clean it one more time, and your there!! Your broke in and ready for your normal maintanance routine! I hand lap every new barrel I get. Believe me- it works wonders on the life of my barrels. Hope this helps.

I have put this out before, I will put it out again. Fluting on a barrel is [ to me] a fashion statement. Even if they flute the barrel submerged in a liquid enviroment, there will be barrel warpage from the machining process of the flutes. Can't be avoided. So unless they final ream and rifle the barrel AFTER they flute it, I DON"T WANT IT. I have seen a butt load of fluted bbl's that won't shoot accurately when you put some long range on them. On the other hand, I have to admitt that I have seen A FEW of them shoot real well at range. But that is not the norm in my experiance. It seems like more luck than anything else. At the length BBL you are talking, The suggestion about a heavy round bbl sounds right to me. Remember guy's-- If nice little light rifles would do the job, wouldn't we all have one by now???
 

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DR 308:

I would be concerned about fluting and shorting my barrell that much if I was putting some serious distance shots down but the reality is most of ours are in the 100 to 200 yard range. And yes fluting is pretty :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
DR,

Thanks again for your advice. Are you talking about bore paste? I have some bore paste, cant remember the name, its in a little white plastic bottle and the paste is kind of brown in color. It's kind of gritty like a polishing compound would be. I have ran this stuff through it on the advice of the gunsmith I met at the range a few weeks ago. Is this what you mean?

Thank you again.
 

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Badshot

I'll be there, but not until later in the day (say 12:00 til 3 or 4:00pm) You planning to devistate the ears of the 100 yard line or the 200 & 300 yard line shooters with the shock wave from your cannon?

I've picked up some of that 300 RUM brass at the range, compare it to my .308 shell casings, and shake my head. That bad boy kicks hard on both ends no doubt.

I've never broken in a barrel that's been re-blued. I suspect its the same, but someone should know exactly what the call is for your situation.
 

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Badshot:

I am talking about automotive valve grinding compound. Cloverleaf to be exact. The paste you are refering to is good for final polishing after your MAJOR 6 MONTH MAINTENANCE CLEANING [What the heck is that????] Every 6 months, I take my piece down COMPLETELY!! and go over everything. At that time [after I clean the hell out of my barrel] I final polish it also. And that is the stuff I use for it. When you use the valve compound, you will feel the entire barrel getting rather warm. GREAT!
That means it's working just fine. I routinely get an extra 3 to 5000 rounds of barrel life by following this rule of mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Jeff,

Your time frame sounds pretty good to me. That means I can sleep in. I will be staying on the 100 yard range for now. Those poor people wont know what is going on. You are right though, that thing is a cannon. You can feel the wind blow back in your face after the shot. Its a nice gentle breeze and I didn't notice it on the first shot. I was too amazed at the lack of felt recoil on my end. One of the range officers mentioned the wind to me and I felt it on the second shot. I had to laugh. It made me think of seeing the tanks in Iraq firing and how the dust stirs around the tank when you see it on the news. I can tell you this though. Briley did a first rate job on my rifles. They took a little longer than originally promised but the wait was well worth it.


DR,

How many shots would be a good estimate to getting the reblued barrel broke in. Should I lap it before i take it out and shoot it? What should I do before I go shoot it besides just make sure the bore is clean of any shavings from putting the muzzle brake on?

I'm glad I went snooping around and found this sight. Thanks again for all your help.
 

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badshot,

Is the paste your talking about JB Bore Paste, I have read and heard good and bad things about this. Be careful you don't over-do-it as you can easily cause your barrel excessive wear.

Flea,

I agree with you fluting does give it a nice distinct appearance and I do believe that a 20" barrel would provide consistently accurate shots at 100-200 yards and even maybe 300 with quality ammo and barrel.

The key will be to perfectly put this rilfe together yourself while keeping all the important factors working together in harmony. What I'm refering to is factors such as stock type, type of bedding, rate of twist, ammo type will be crucial, since barrel lenght will be shorter it will come with less force and velocity. I believe it can be done! It might not be easy to achieve 300 yard consistent accurate shots but you will easily reach your 100 yard shot goal.

dr 308,

The average LE urban shooting distance is 71 yards. I don't know what backround you come from but this type of rifle would serve Flea very well and be suited for his line of work. The fluting does add a factor that he might be better off without but it can be done. Especially if his target range is 100-200 yard consistent shot placement.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Specter,

JB sounds right but I would have to look tonight. The gunsmith I talked with at the range said it was kind of like toothpaste for a gun barrel. Is it abrasive enough to do damage? Should I not use it? Sometimes being such a newbie sucks. Too much to learn and so many questions.

Thanks
 

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Badshot:

Your reblued rifle barrel is already broke in from before. Polishing it is a good idea, just to take the bluing out of it, but as far as breaking it in, it's already there! And yes, by all means, run some patches through it to see if there is any machining residue left in it. If it was a good gunsmith that did the work, this will have been done already. But it do's not hurt to check. Then take it to the range and have fun with it! I assume the reblued rifle is a used weapon right? Do's not make sense to reblue a new one. Just polish the blueing out of it and shoot it. Any time I can help, just ask. OH YEA: check out the scope I have for sale on this sight. Man, sometimes I crack myself up! Later :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
DR,

Yes the reblued rifle is a used one. I bought it used back in 1988 and have loved shooting it since. It was getting some rust started on it so I wanted to get it stripped down and reblued. I decided to go from the original gloss shine of the factory blue on a BDL custom deluxe to a matte finish. Reason to switch:


Not another scope for sale!!!!!!! :cry: I just spent $1900 on 2 new scopes. I got a Leupold x4 4.5-14 x 50 for my 25-06 (the old reblued one) and the scope I could only get in matte finish. Thats why I changed the gun to match. I'm glad I did. It looks a lot better now. And the other scope I got was a Nightforce 5.5-22 x 56 and its on my sendero 300 RUM. And I have to say, I think both scopes are fine pieces of equipment that I will never have to replace. But you know, My 7 mag could use a new scope. LOL my dad would string me up if i went changing his baby up. It actually belongs to him. I'm just keeping it company for him.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
:cry: and I spent $1900 on scopes LOL

I hate to hear that about Tasco. I have a perfectly blurry one at home that I need to sell. It's an old Accurange 3-9 x 40. it worked real well for a few years on my 25 and took alot of good deer down. But I think I like the Leupold I just got.
 

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:D Badshot:
Did you say you had a 3-9 ACCURANGE by Redfield? Is it an early one? What seems to be the problem with it? I am interested!
 
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