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Discussion Starter #1
Each round I reload for a 300 Win Mag gets sprayed with One Shot, resized, deprimed, pockets cleaned, shave the rim of the neck, charged and seated. Can I skip the primer pocket cleaning and the shaving of the neck rim? If it’s not important I’d rather speed it up and save time. Is that a bad idea?


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Each round I reload for a 300 Win Mag gets sprayed with One Shot, resized, deprimed, pockets cleaned, shave the rim of the neck, charged and seated. Can I skip the primer pocket cleaning and the shaving of the neck rim? If it’s not important I’d rather speed it up and save time. Is that a bad idea?


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Depends on how consistent of rounds you want. If your shooting LD and want top consistency and accuracy, i would skimp on a step. If all your concerned with is that pie sized lung shot area then you probably don't need to do a "trim to" every time along as you done exceed max length.

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Depends on how consistent of rounds you want. If your shooting LD and want top consistency and accuracy, i would skimp on a step. If all your concerned with is that pie sized lung shot area then you probably don't need to do a "trim to" every time along as you done exceed max length.

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Would not skimp^^

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I don’t specifically clean primer pockets, but I tumble the brass in rice every time just before priming they case.

I also use imperial sizing wax. It is much better than the spray.

My process is as follows for each firing.

Anneal
Lube
size/de-prime
Tumble in rice
Trim/deburr
Prime
Powder
Seat bullet

I have discussed trimming every time with Orkan. He says you can skip the trimming unless they are at or near max and his groups show that works fine. I just do it every time to maintain consistency.

Watch for bulging above the belt. I have never loaded for belted magnums, but from what I understand is after a few firings they get difficult to properly size.
 

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After few years of reloading, there was a time I debated where I can skip to simplify the whole process. I came to the conclusion combine the steps using different tools.

The first step I do is de-prime and wet tumble the cases. No need to worry about the primer pocket.

I was not sure when you said shave the rim of the case, but I assume that you meant case trimming.

For case trimming, I use Henderson Precision Trimmer. For trimming blade, the unit has Forster's case mouth cutter, which takes care of trimming and chamfers inside and outside of the case mouth.
 

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After few years of reloading, there was a time I debated where I can skip to simplify the whole process. I came to the conclusion combine the steps using different tools.

The first step I do is de-prime and wet tumble the cases. No need to worry about the primer pocket.

I was not sure when you said shave the rim of the case, but I assume that you meant case trimming.

For case trimming, I use Henderson Precision Trimmer. For trimming blade, the unit has Forster's case mouth cutter, which takes care of trimming and chamfers inside and outside of the case mouth.
That Henderson looks like it would do well on my hangun brass which almost never needs trimming. I use LE Wilson precision trimmer on my rifle brass.. i universal deprime, clean pockets then tumble, lube/resize/trim/debur, sonic wash, prime, powder, seat.. i always tumble before sending them in my dies, I use lee universal deprimer. On all my semi auto has guns I throw an extra step of tumble with polish before priming and loading because I want brass in my semi and ARs as slick and smooth as possible to assist in feed and extreact.. dont know if it actually helps but it seems logical that a smooth slick case would feed and extract easier.. i don't mind all the prep work, just knowing my cases are uniform gives me a sense of quality..

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Discussion Starter #7
After few years of reloading, there was a time I debated where I can skip to simplify the whole process. I came to the conclusion combine the steps using different tools.

The first step I do is de-prime and wet tumble the cases. No need to worry about the primer pocket.

I was not sure when you said shave the rim of the case, but I assume that you meant case trimming.

For case trimming, I use Henderson Precision Trimmer. For trimming blade, the unit has Forster's case mouth cutter, which takes care of trimming and chamfers inside and outside of the case mouth.
I have a case trimmer. I haven’t had to use it yet, and some of these are on their 7th charge. I use the same gun on those loads every time. What I meant by shaving was by spinning that iron thing that looks like a little rocket ship around the inside and outside of the neck mouth.
 

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I have a case trimmer. I haven’t had to use it yet, and some of these are on their 7th charge. I use the same gun on those loads every time. What I meant by shaving was by spinning that iron thing that looks like a little rocket ship around the inside and outside of the neck mouth.
Thats deburring and chambfering I believe

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I have a case trimmer. I haven’t had to use it yet, and some of these are on their 7th charge. I use the same gun on those loads every time. What I meant by shaving was by spinning that iron thing that looks like a little rocket ship around the inside and outside of the neck mouth.
First of all, you never needed to trim even after 7th load? That's so strange... are you sure of case length after resizing them? You really do need to have them under the recommended maximum case length.

The reason I feel it's strange is because usually after a fire and resize, my case grow to about 2.618 to maximum length. So,I tend to trim the cases back to 2.610 just about after every firing.

If you did not trim the case, there's no need to chamfer it.
 

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First of all, you never needed to trim even after 7th load? That's so strange... are you sure of case length after resizing them? You really do need to have them under the recommended maximum case length.

The reason I feel it's strange is because usually after a fire and resize, my case grow to about 2.618 to maximum length. So,I tend to trim the cases back to 2.610 just about after every firing.

If you did not trim the case, there's no need to chamfer it.
I would have to agree, LC, lapua, starline.. every kind of brass ive used grows enough that I give it a few cranks in the LE wilson after every load. If you are going 7 loads without trimming, i have to thing you are flirting with danger of trapping the bullet but i guess its possible you have a very deep throat in your chamber.. i keep all my cases/calibers trimmed to minimum. On gas guns its critical to have consistent trim lengths if your crimpimg...that is if you want consistent pressure and release.

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Discussion Starter #11
I would have to agree, LC, lapua, starline.. every kind of brass ive used grows enough that I give it a few cranks in the LE wilson after every load. If you are going 7 loads without trimming, i have to thing you are flirting with danger of trapping the bullet but i guess its possible you have a very deep throat in your chamber.. i keep all my cases/calibers trimmed to minimum. On gas guns its critical to have consistent trim lengths if your crimpimg...that is if you want consistent pressure and release.

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Is it possible that by deburring and chamfering the case size stays short? Maybe I’ll put them in the Lyman trimmer next time around. I thought the cartridges would be too tight in the chamber if they were too long. Is that a sign?


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Is it possible that by deburring and chamfering the case size stays short? Maybe I’ll put them in the Lyman trimmer next time around. I thought the cartridges would be too tight in the chamber if they were too long. Is that a sign?


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It's possible you may have trimmed it too short, but after few reloads, it's about time.

Most importantly, what's the current case length after resizing them? You do full length size them, right?

Also, yes tight chambering can be a sign.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It's possible you may have trimmed it too short, but after few reloads, it's about time.

Most importantly, what's the current case length after resizing them? You do full length size them, right?

Also, yes tight chambering can be a sign.
After I just trimmed 40 cases, they are all at 2.615 now. They were between 2.625 and 2.633 after resizing and depriming.

PS MidSouthShooters just got in H1000. It’ll be gone in 12 hours. They have one pounders.


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I'd say you are doing just fine, at about.5 MOA although I like 5 round groups to let me know I sealed the deal. That's just me..

I know 300WM has been out for a while. Just not a fan of belted rounds. Many years ago and I'm talking almost 40, I reloaded 300WM and after a while I notice a bulge forming just in front of the belt. Truth be told, I'm a lot better at reloading now thanks to forums like this one and others. I haven't shot the 300 until 2005 when I did some bear hunting in Canada. A 180gr factory Corlok took out the bottom third of a 300lb black bear's heart and he still ran about 30-40 yards. I learned just how tough it is to lug dead weight out of the woods.. Gotta love quads for game retrieval.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I would say whatever your doing is working.. just make sure you don't let them grow to long, that can be dangerous:)

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Here’s the weird part. That was in the beginning of the day. After 25 rounds they started spreading out. Not sure if the barrel was too hot, or was I just getting too beat up with the higher charges of H1000 compared to the H4350, or both. Winds started picking up but I don’t think that would play a big role at 300y.


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Here’s the weird part. That was in the beginning of the day. After 25 rounds they started spreading out. Not sure if the barrel was too hot, or was I just getting too beat up with the higher charges of H1000 compared to the H4350, or both. Winds started picking up but I don’t think that would play a big role at 300y.


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Is H1000 know to be temp sensative? I know most factory savage barrels ive had would start losing accuracy if I didn't give them enough time to cool between shots.. i always made a rule of thumb on my factory savage barrels, no more than 5 in 10.. it may be a shot every 2 minutes, or 5 shots in a minute then let cool for 9 min roughly.

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