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12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I would like to see an in depth review done on any of the following stocks,
I am building a Stevens 200 based on the Sub $800 build. The rifle is 30-06 but I am useing a McGowan barrel instead of the ER Shaw. I am considering the Choate Tactical Bolt Action stock when they become available.

Choate Tactical Bolt Action
Choate Ultimate Sniper
Choate ultimate Varmint

9 Posts
I have the Ultimate Sniper Stock on my Savage 110. Its a nice stock. I had to make a small modification to mine. If your not shooting with gloves on then you have to sand down some of the texturing on the grip. The reasoning for this is after about 20 rds the sharp points start to bit into your hand. A piece of sandpaper fix that problem. other then that I have no issues with it.

525 Posts
Pros and cons. I'll start with the bad, so I end on a good note, because I ultimately like it a lot.


Lots of seams and gaps in the seams, that if it bothers you need sanded or filled before painting

the injection molding around the v-block leaves lots of little plastic fins/tails that should be trimmed

there is A LOT of play in the action, in side-to-side fit of the Stevens 200 (I skim bedded mine in part because of that)

The front action screw in your stock Stevens 200 may not be long enough to tighten down the fron of the stock - or even contact the threads - I had to cut down a longer one made for pilar bedding. This may be due to a bad stock that didn't recess cut in the front pillar area as a QA issue with THAT ONE stock, or it may be a QA issue with their measurement of the front recess being off

It is a v-block - I am not a fan of v-blocks, which is the other reason I skim bedded

The fit at the rear tang, near the safety, was a bit loose - I had to add bedding there just to get the tang to make contact with the stock

The interchangeable cheek welds are only offered in 2 sizes, and the HIGH one is about perfect with low rings - don't what you'll do with med or high rings

with the cheek weld in the middle or front position (you have three front to back placement options) the bolt cannot be removed on a long action rifle - probably OK in the middle for short action, but would still prevent removal in the front position

you can combine length of pull inserts to customize that, but the screws are not long enough to place all 3 at the same time - ok unless you have really long arms like I do

Needs to be primered with a plastic specific primer (i.e. Krylon) for the paint to adhere and wear well


It is cheap

light weight - if you like that, or want it for a field rifle...

3 different length of pull insert sizes, which can be combined

2 different cheek weld pieces offering two heights, with three available front-to-back postions

if not, the grip and the butt stock are hollow so weight can be added - I added a lead-shot and epoxy slurry to fill both compartments, making the finished rifle approach the 20# mark - I like heavy rifles (another discussion there is no room for here)

LOTS AND LOTS of great features...

removeable Harris style bipod attachment, so you can have multiple attachments with different bipods to quickly interchange for shooting styles or positions

ambidextrous SIDE sling mounts - I didn't like that at first but the first time I carried it like that I absolutely fell in love with it.

hollow body and grip for adding weight

very comfortable fit and feel

FULL LENGTH aluminum bedding block

injection molded around the block...

allowing it to have integrated pillars

good fit for the thickest barrels and thick untapered match/competion/target recoil lugs

the vast majority of the negatives are very easy fixes, or just minor annoyances

Overall I like it a lot, and as long as you are aware of the negatives, I highly recommend it. The extras make up for the minor annoyances, in my opinion. ESPECIALLY if you are planning to do a skim bedding anyway, it is an unmatchable stock for the price.
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