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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everybody,
I will be graduating from gunsmithing school in September and I have a question on crowning. I read some where, and now I cant find it but combining an 11 degree across the whole face of the muzzle and then doing a 45 degree could be done to have it look like the picture. Has anyone done this or heard of it before?
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Many weapons are coming out with brakes or just threaded barrels so I don't know that beyond square and clean cut there is relevance to what we do here. Doing a good job on a threaded barrel might be a more useful skill set for a smith. Just a thought. Most of my custom sticks are set up with a brake that I can attach a can to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Many weapons are coming out with brakes or just threaded barrels so I don't know that beyond square and clean cut there is relevance to what we do here. Doing a good job on a threaded barrel might be a more useful skill set for a smith. Just a thought. Most of my custom sticks are set up with a brake that I can attach a can to.
Even with just a regular hunting rifle used as a brush gun? I don't a lathe yet so threading barrels would be tough, and I havent quite made the connections in my area to send out work for that. The barrel that is pictured I off a remington 7600
 

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Speaking for myself, now that I've had experience with cans, all my custom long gun acquisitions will be can ready. If you are going to do custom long guns you may want to hone the barrel threading skill while the expertise to do so is still available to you.
 

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I am not a gunsmith but I am a machinist who has threaded over 20 barrels for a gunsmith friend of mine on both manual and CNC machines. I only recut the crown of a rifle when it was not perpendicular to the centerline of the barrel. This can be an issue with cans or breaks depending on the major diameter of the thread compared to the bore diameter and how much of a land is present in the female portion of the can or break and how the can or break is intended to seat on the barrel. In the case of the picture I would think that taking the 11 degree surface out to major diameter of the rifle is asking for trouble for no reason. Even though this is technically a recessed crown, creating an acute angle at the OD of the muzzle will invite damage regardless of whether or not you are intending to thread the barrel. The same way you always see a chamfer to a smaller diameter than the minor diameter (root) of a thread, to protect the lead thread from damage. I would have a larger chamfer. I cannot tell exactly how much is there in the picture. 2 cents.
 

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I believe every barrel should be checked for crown anomalies. During the past year , I bought a 20" .223 Y barrel from a reputable source that turned out to be a dud. It came in labeled as a 5R which didn't bother me one way or the other. After several trips to the range and many bullets and loads, I couldn't get less than 1moa. With another thorough examination of the whole build, I found a questionable crown. When I put a new 11 degree crown on it, it shoots 1/4 moa or les at 100 yards. As far as the 45deg/ 11deg. crown, I don't see the need with a break/ crown protector.
 

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I’ve done several new crowns with Home crown kit and it has saved me and friends many hours of trouble shooting to regain or improve accuracy on those few rifles refusing to group. With a new barrel installed, or second hand rifle a new crown is a good investment. Since most of my barrels are threaded I prefer the 11degree or zero degree crown…when rifle not in use I religiously put on the thread and crown protector back on. And in use it either has a suppressor or brake installed so the crown by default is fairly well protected. Agree, the recessed crown has distinct advantages yet, not so easy on my pocketbook if new crown requires barrel threading as well. For this reason the deep cut recessed crown was eliminated. I average 1 to 2 new crowns per barrel life with no threading required. If my grouping is significantly diminished then a thorough crown inspection is in good order. Often, if a super clean barrel still didn’t group well as expected I put on a new crown often which often worked a treat. Cleaning, (and cleaning properly) is often the biggest crown wearing culprit resulting in loss of high performing accuracy. So after a couple 2-3 years of fastidious shooting and cleaning and then after a few recrowns, typically I’m ready for a new barrel. Nothing like a new sharp 11degree match crown without retreading is pretty low cost and well worth it. I wince a bit more though if needing threading as well.
 
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