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First off i'm brand new to this forum so hello.
I have a question about my new rifle. I recently bought a savage .308. It has under 200 rounds through it and i've noticed that the rifling in the barrel seems to be a copper color, almost like the copper of the bullets has rubbed off on them. In addition to this the area between the rifling looks worn as well. Is this normal? I have been very carefull to keep it clean and cleaned it after every shot the first 5 rounds i put through it and after each of the next 5 3 round groups. So basically my question is, is this bad for my barrel and is there something that i should change in the future to avoid it :?:
Thanx
 

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You need to use a copper solvent like Sweets 7.62, or Shooter Choice, or Hoppes Bench Rest. I use Sweets In mine and it works real well. Just be careful to follow the directions. I also never use a brush on mine if I can help it. I use a mop, or just plain old patches. Probably the only brush mine see is a bore snake at the range that I use in a pinch. The copper fouling will shoe as a blue color on your patches. Keep cleaning until no more blue appears, then follow up with a good dose of regular cleaner, followed by a ver very light coat of oil. Should take care of your problem.

Most of all welcome to the forums.
 

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My savage 308 showed copper on the lands, but not the grooves during break-in. I was using hoppes bench rest with patches only. Later at home I ran the brush down it with some shooters choice, and it cleared right up. I know the brush isn't the best for it, but used sparingly its ok. Just make sure you have a cleaning rod guide, and clean from the chamber side.
Once you get the bore clean you should redo the break-in procedure tryin to keep the bore clean. If the surface of the bore was coated with copper, it might not be fully broken in.
 

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Do NOT use the stainless steel brushes ever. If you use a brush used bronze.
 

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I have found that a brush is very helpful in keeping your gun in good condition, just need to make sure you use a NYLON bristle. Wet the bore with a patch of powder solvent and then brush about 10 strokes with the nylon brush and then a couple more powder solvent patches to clean out what you have loosened with the brush. Now you are ready to attack the copper fouling smeared on to your barrel with a good copper solvent like Sweet's. Follow the directions on the bottle as the ammonia based solvents can be harmful if left in the bore, follow with a light coat of oil for storage. There are many ways that is just mine. :lol:
 

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If anyone shoots corrosive primers, have some ammonia though...even windex. It does attract water, yeah.
 

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I use phosphor bronze brushes with shooters choice in my Robar because that's what they recomend in the owners manual.

I see no problem with phosphor bronze as it is a lot softer than the steel of the barrel and a lot harder than the copper fouling it is removing....ideal!

After full stroking with the bronze brush, kept wet with the solvent, I use patches untill they show clean, then put one well oiled patch through and finish with a smaller dry patch to leave only a very fine film.

There are so many ways touted as the best, Robar say you can't clean enough.....others say too much cleaning can damage the bore.

I don't know who is right but my grandma said "cleanliness is next to godliness"........and she was cool 8)
 

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Kiwi said:
I don't know who is right but my grandma said "cleanliness is next to godliness"........and she was cool 8)
I'd say your granny knew what she was talking about.



Seriously, Savage is not known for glassy smooth bores. Quite the contrary. (Ok you econo-rifle lovers...let me have it!)
 

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I had bought a Savage simply because i had always heard there great for "out of the box accuracy". I got mine and it wouldnt hold 2 inch groups with match ammo and a heavy barrel... :? I have since sold it...

BC
 

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The first Savage 110FP I ever owned did the same thing. I was baffeled because they were suppose to be so accurate. So I checked for free floating... and discovered the stock had a severe pressure point on one side of the barrel. After about an hour of dremmel work on the stock, it finally had a free floating barrel. It then shot sub .5 MOA with premium ammo, not even match!!

I still hate the savage stocks (of course, unless you order one of their McMillan stocked rifles)

MEL
 

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I also had the Savage 110FP... i checked for free floating and checked for obstructions in the barrel... didnt seem to be anything wrong with it besides the fact it wasnt accurate. :? I tried numerous match grade ammo... didnt help it at all. Since the rifle didnt come with any type of accuracy garentee i had to sell it for under half the price i bought it for... thinking of it now... i should have just rebarreled it. But at the time i was so angry i felt like melting it... but decided to sell it.

BC
 

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I had a buddy who had a Savage that would pick up amazing amounts of copper. I used to joke to him that his bullets were .29 caliber by the time they exited his barrel.

When he brushed Sweets down that bore, the patch would be electric-NEON-blue!
 

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That tends to happen with fast twist ratio's... and when breaking in a barrel.

BC
 

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I had a buddy who had a Savage that would pick up amazing amounts of copper. I used to joke to him that his bullets were .29 caliber by the time they exited his barrel.

When he brushed Sweets down that bore, the patch would be electric-NEON-blue!
 

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I was warned about barrel interference on the savage stock and took the dremel to it before I ever fired it. It's shot sub .5 MOA from day one. I put a blackhawk cheekpad (old style) on it and it gives me a very consistent and full cheek weld. I am afraid to it change it now because it shoots so well. Although I am much more comfortable with a pistol grip.
I have been reluctant to shoot anything but match grade ammo. With Mel's experience, maybe i'll try something less expensive.
I've been doin a little internet investigating on barrel fouling. One persons opinion made sense to me. He said if you keep the barrel too clean, it always attract copper. You need to develop a layer (invisible) of carbon. Kind of like the skin on pudding. The bullet glides on the skin nicely.
If you brush your barrel too harshly, you will be back down to the parent material, in which case you need to go through the break-in procedure again. Most people don't, and copper fouling can be the result.
 
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