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I am a professional tig welder/fabricator at work and recently converted both my Rem 700 and model 70 bolt handles to tactical style knobs. I took this project one step further than most and actually lathed my own knobs out of a very hard plastic we use at work for motor spacers. I then used weld studs I use at work and welded them to the cut handle. These studs come in various threads and sizes. I used a special polishing disc to take the weld out leaving a perfect finish.

When I made the knobs, I drilled and tapped them with matching threads from the studs and simply screwed them on. Cool thing about turning your own knobs is I can make them whatever size or shape I want. My model 70 is my deer rifle so I made a smaller knob. I made an oversized knob on my Rem 700. Then I was able to paint them any color I wanted with a good plastic bonding paint. I will try to get some picts up soon. Cool thing was the money I saved. Boss doesn't care if we use a bolt/stud and a little plastic every now and then, so I actually spent 0$ on both. Just a little free time after work. Solid as a rock too being welded on.

If anyone is interested in a custom shaped knob or mounting or both let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
awesome guys,

Tractor shaft, I would have used a punch start or a center bit, The only problem was where i had made the cut and filed out the cut to be square it had a pocket of air (bubble) that i had literally cut in half, hence making a center punch where i did not want it. This is where my drill bit wanted to walk off into. Thanks for the advice tho would deff use some type of center punch or of the like if at all possible.
 

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I love the look of this. This will definetly be one of my first upgrades to my rifle when i get it in may/june. Does anyone know of a good gunsmith near the FT. Hood/Killeen, tx area?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
just knowing the amount of gun avids around that area there should be tons.
 

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Very nice, i was curious about this mod and your walk through sealed the deal for me to DIY. Thanks, and great job!
 

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Discussion Starter #27
No problem, Glad i could be of help.
 

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Great job installing that Tac Ops knob!


Anyone who tries this and messes up, or puts it on and realizes it looks like it doesnt belong because of that round stud protrusion, call me and I'll fix it with one of mine done right.

Not to knock Tac-Ops, but I've seen quite a few hack jobs via those "DIY kits"
 

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Does anyone have a part number or a link to the brand of solder that is recommended for this project? I have a kit on the way and would like to make sure i have the right tools for the job when it shows up.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?p ... ber=813132

That would do

Most silver solder is the same just have to make sure of its silver content like i stated months ago. also 13 bucks isnt to bad. i belive I bought mine from a local hardware shop and ran about 20ish.
 

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thanks for the reply, i am still a little confused. in an previous post you said 45% silver content was required, and the midway one only has 4%. At my local hardware store i could not find anything over 5%. Was it a typo in the previous post?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
ahh in deed it was a typo sorry for that. A high rating of silver stands around 5.5 Ag before it starts to get a little on the pricey end and also in which really is over kill as far as tensile strength gose, as stated before honestly how much force is one going to apply to the bolt knob? Id be more afraid of bending the steel shaft on the bolt before worring about the knob sheering free... thats just me but I know those who use these units on the feild have every right to be so uptight about it.
 

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With your higher silver content and hence higher temps to actually weld, I wouldn't be as much concerned about sag in the handle as much as the heat destroying the tempered finish in the bolt handle. Although it may seem stupid, after the bolt handle is heated again it becomes hard and therefore becomes brittle. It may not ever happen to anyone but with a brittle bolt handle it really does not take much to snap one off. I suppose the best thing to do is just not quench the handle to cool it down and let it cool down at room temperature. Happy modifying!!
 

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Discussion Starter #35
aus, I wrapped the handel with a wet rag when heating the tip your soldering to, Keeps the heat to a minimum and only in one spot where you need it. which is on the tool steel really, not so much the bolt but it dose need to be hot enough to allow it to flow. You should be no where near hot enough to make the handle red hot or sag it, but i put that as a warning becasue well not all people understand that... sadly. =D
 

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I've repaired a few of these tac-ops bolt knob kits that people installed.
With the method of install I use, I can still put any knob on even after the handle has been cut and drilled into.
So, if anyone has any trouble installing theirs, or if they want it to look better...

www.azprecisiongunsmithing.com

Keith
 

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Thanks for sharing this!

I have a few questions:
I have never dealt with silver solder, I heard about this for many years pertaining to permanently installing flash hiders, but never high use components such as bolts. How strong is the bond? I dont have a tig but a MIG, and though I'm an experience welder I just dont feel that I would be able to produce a seamless and consistent bead with a mig welder.

Just a thought. What about useing a tap and die, and tapping and threading the innie and outie?
 

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Silver Solder is pretty strong, its more of a light braze than a wield. Mike's knob is designed so that the stud takes all the stress the solder is just there holding it in place so welding it would be way overkill IMO.

Jake
 

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I've seen more of these fail from being done wrong... or the customer realized it looks cheaply done.

Drilling your handle with a drill bit, and soldering that stud into it, is about the weakest way to go about this if done at all wrong. And even done right, its inferior to most every other method of install.

Spend alittle more money and have it done correctly, professionaly, and quickly.

Turn around times for many smiths doing this is less than a week. We're just a couple days.

$75 TOTAL for it done professionaly, or half that for it done half as good.


and I'm not knockin the DIY kits for people to try at home, but your handle coming off in the field is the last thing you want. Seen these fail many times.
Just trying to save people the headache.
 
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