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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys, I already posted a thread about getting a Browning X-Bolt 308 just to see what people thought about it but I am also looking to get a 223 at the same time. I am from Australia and I wanted the 223 to shoot kangaroo's, goats and fox's. The 308 is for pigs and deer.

I live on a 6000 acre property so I could be taking shots over 500m easily. I have $1200 US roughly to spend on the rifle (not including scope) and I am looking for the best quality I can get for the money.

I was looking at the Tikka T3x Varmint Stainless but obviously I am open to ideas or I wouldn't be posting here. I am willing to customize the rifle to get the best results If I have to. I want it to be 1/2 MOA if I can, with a sleek action and look good. Thank you for your help because I am a beginner just looking to get into shooting and get a couple of nice rifles after a lot of time saving my money.

I have done some reading and I noticed that the Howa 1500 is highly recommended by a lot of experienced shooters here. What kind of a price am I looking at if I do all the best modifications on it? Are they really that good? What separates them from the rest of the bunch and I'm also curious if there is a slightly better option available to those willing to spend a little bit more money.

This is one of my local shops: http://www.claytonfirearms.com.au/products/centrefire-rifles/howa
I saw that I can buy the HOWA BARRELLED ACTION STAINLESS VARMINT for $935 Australian. Is it a good option to buy this and then by a B&C stock for it as well?
 

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Why not split the difference around a 6 or 6.5 mm and get one really good set up and reloading equipment?

With a 6.5 you can load down to a 95 grain and vaporize small critters or step up to a 140 grain or a touch more and have more energy at extended range than a 308.

I don't know if you have 6.5 Creedmoor out there or if 6.5X55 Swede is more popular.
Swede is a long action though.
Tikka or Howa would come down to price for me.
Make sure that the Howa is real Stainless Steel.
We get a Cerakote Stainless colored action here in the United States now.
They stopped importing the real stainless actions a couple of years ago. I am looking for one used with a hunter profile barrel.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks for your help. I really like your idea of the the 6.5mm and just getting one really good set up. We have the ammo here in Australia but it is a little bit pricey. As you said I could just get some reloading equipment to help with this since I'd be saving my money not having to buy two rifles. As it stands, factory ammo for that round is about $2 a bullet. If I made them myself I could probably get the price down to about $1 from what I have been told.

The thing is that there will be a lot of times where all I will be doing is culling roo's and sometimes we shoot up to 100 in a night. They are really that bad. I just feel like I need a really specialised rifle for this and I want to keep the ammo as cheap as possible for when I am doing this. I also really like the .223 as a target shooting rifle because it is also much cheaper to shoot. Down the track I plan on reloading with the .223 to further save on ammo.

Because I feel like I need a .223 for Roos I was trying to think of the best other caliber to cover me for when I want to shoot deer and pigs. The .308 immediately stood out to me for it's stopping power, versatility, relative cheapness for the size, availability, longer barrel life and just overall proven effectiveness. The 308 is not top priority and I would be willing to save for it further to make sure I get something decent. I do like the X-Bolt, but nothing is decided.

If I decided to get the Tikka T3x in .223 does anybody have any advice on what kind of a stock/chassis I would want to upgrade to later to keep it optimised for shooting Roo's out of the window or in the back of the ute on the farm? I would love to be able to shoot 1/2 MOA if possible and maybe do a little bit of target shooting. I just don't want it to be too big and heavy. What are people's thoughts on the GRS Berserk stock?
 

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You could also get into a Tikka T3X Varmint rifle in .223 that will with decent handloads get you into the 1/2 MOA if you buy a scope of equal cost. Lots of post market support on them these days as well. They do shoot very well, and no fussing with new stocks and the like unless you want to put it into one of the new chassis being built for them.
 

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100 a night? Good grief.
That is worse than some feral hog infestations we have in Georgia.
How about a sickle bar mower on the front of a Jeep or Land Cruiser and just go all Mad Max on them?
 

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Personally, if you're looking at 2 different rifles at the same time...save and get a Desert Tech. That is the state I'm currently in. Desert Tech is ~$4500...when I'm done with my .308WIN (if I finish it) it will be a 6.5 Creedmoor and I will have ~$4000+ in it. For another rifle build, another ~$4000+...optics for each rifle at ~$3000+...

Get a Desert Tech for ~$4500...put a good scope on it for ~$3000+...want a new caliber? ~$1000-1200 for the conversion kit...that's it. No complete build cost, no second scope, etc. Two completely built rifles with optics, in my book, would amount to ~$8000+ each...~$16000...Desert Tech with two calibers ~$10000...three calibers ~$11000...four calibers ~$12000...catch my drift?

Buy once, cry once...I should have listened the first time...
 

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100 a night? Good grief.
That is worse than some feral hog infestations we have in Georgia.
How about a sickle bar mower on the front of a Jeep or Land Cruiser and just go all Mad Max on them?
I like the "Bait with a bucket of tannerite" method myself. I wonder when someone will figure out how to get several tannerite charges to go off after one is hit. Put up a ring around the bait area, far enough back so the pigs are inside the explosive ring, and when the tannerite goes off you have a "pig fountain".

Of course that would create other problems because a lot of people would then be able to claim what was promised them "when pigs fly"

Another thought that just came to mind. Maybe someone could create a "Combine" that would use your sickle bar method but rather than just leaving them on the field, it would pick them up and process them into BACON:D
 

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...I wonder when someone will figure out how to get several tannerite charges to go off after one is hit...
Already done it...we did several 1 lb bags of tannerite around a tree stump. Between each bag we put a small rod, an 1/8" diameter will suffice. The rods were placed with each end directly touching a bag. We shot 1 bag, forcing the rods into the next bags with enough velocity to set them off...chain reaction. The rods we used were stainless steel from the local Lowe's, bought in 4' lengths and cut to about 12" each. Being stainless steel, aside from burn marks that wipe off the rods were unarmed. It sounds stupid, but I promise the stump is gone...
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Personally, if you're looking at 2 different rifles at the same time...save and get a Desert Tech. That is the state I'm currently in. Desert Tech is ~$4500...when I'm done with my .308WIN (if I finish it) it will be a 6.5 Creedmoor and I will have ~$4000+ in it. For another rifle build, another ~$4000+...optics for each rifle at ~$3000+...

Get a Desert Tech for ~$4500...put a good scope on it for ~$3000+...want a new caliber? ~$1000-1200 for the conversion kit...that's it. No complete build cost, no second scope, etc. Two completely built rifles with optics, in my book, would amount to ~$8000+ each...~$16000...Desert Tech with two calibers ~$10000...three calibers ~$11000...four calibers ~$12000...catch my drift?

Buy once, cry once...I should have listened the first time...
What you say really does have a lot of good logic to it. Overall it would be the cheaper option. It's just scary how much this hobby can cost. If I was going to go down this route I probably will have to keep saving my $.

That being said, if I was to go down the route of getting the Tikka T3x in .223 does anyone have any advice regarding what chassis options I should consider? I'd like to keep the rifle as practical as possible for Roo shooting. How much weight would be too much etc?

You could also get into a Tikka T3X Varmint rifle in .223 that will with decent handloads get you into the 1/2 MOA if you buy a scope of equal cost. Lots of post market support on them these days as well. They do shoot very well, and no fussing with new stocks and the like unless you want to put it into one of the new chassis being built for them.
Do you have any recommendations on chassis that are practical for Roo shooting with the Tikka T3x in .223 from inside a Toyota Land Cruiser, or in the back while spotlighting? Maybe I'm better off getting a Bell and Carlson stock instead. I did see that the MDT LSS chassis is relatively light at 1.6lbs.
 

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That being said, if I was to go down the route of getting the Tikka T3x in .223 does anyone have any advice regarding what chassis options I should consider? I'd like to keep the rifle as practical as possible for Roo shooting. How much weight would be too much etc?



Do you have any recommendations on chassis that are practical for Roo shooting with the Tikka T3x in .223 from inside a Toyota Land Cruiser, or in the back while spotlighting? Maybe I'm better off getting a Bell and Carlson stock instead. I did see that the MDT LSS chassis is relatively light at 1.6lbs.
The choice of a chassis system is going to depend a lot on what you like. I have two rifles on the MDT TAC-21 Chassis because they are as close in ergonomics to an AR-15 as possble and still be a bolt action rifle.

They only weigh about a pound more but when I look at how much extra weight I have in both heavy profiled barrels, what's another pound. I don't expect to shoot either off-hand or with a sling and "Oven Mitt" so that's an issue for me. The other thing I like about the TAC-21 is how the chassis wraps around the action for a super solid support.

Again, it's all a matter of likes and dislikes. Their product and support is top notch from my experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Thanks for the help guys. I am pretty sure I'm going to get the Tikka T3X Varmint Stainless in 223. I went to the local gun shop over the weekend and I liked it a lot more than everything else. The action is just so smooth. It is a little above my price range but I'd rather just get something good that I'm happy with. For Australia 223 is just such a great cartridge and It seems everyone who lives on a farm out here has one of them because of how economic they are. The long barrel life, 24" barrel and customizing options are also major selling points for me.

At the present I plan on getting the MDT LSS XL chassis with the Skeleton Lite Stock and buying a Vortex Viper PST gen 2 FFP 5-25x50. I decided that weight for me is not really an issue, as I also intend for it to be a target shooting rifle and it's not difficult to shoot from the car with a 10lb rifle. I also plan on using it for target shooting to get a good technique.

I left it too late to reconsider getting the X-Bolt Hell's Canyon Smoke in 308 and the Conquest DL 3-12x50 scope. The order has already been processed and I got my scope over the week end. I probably should have come here earlier to get advice but I left it too late. I am happy with the X-bolt since it's going to be my pig and deer hunting rifle but I wish I got the Vortex Viper PST 4-16x50 FFP scope instead. I have the scope here now (still waiting on rifle to arrive) and the illuminated reticule is just fantastic and the glass is very clear. It does seem to be a quality design. It's also nice and lite but my main gripe with it is the lack of parallax adjustment. I hope this doesn't become something that really annoys me since I lacked a little experience when I did my shopping but anyway. Apparently this scope is very popular in Australia.

I don't think something like the Desert Tech is really an option because Australian gun laws are pretty bullshit. I live in NSW but who know's how long until I won't be allowed it in this state as well.
https://deserttech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3452
 
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