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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I bought a new Tikka T3 (not t3x) in 270 and laminate wood stock. I bought the upgraded steel recoil lug and was going to put in myself (not a gunsmith). Problem : the original (aluminum) recoil lug was stuck ( it appeared to have JB weld) in it and on the sides. I tried scrapping it away but the lug was stuck. I drilled it out and luckily did not damage the "slot/hole" but I messed up twice; 1. i drilled on hole too far down (about 1-1/2 +/-mm) I put epoxy in to fill the hole and pushed in the steel recoil lug and decided it would be there permanently. problem occurred when the lug would not seat completely at the bottom and was about 2mm +/- too high. I could not pull it back out ( i tried clamping it with vice grips and tapping the vice grip to pull it out ) no go , it had dried just quick enough.

I decided to grind it down 2mm+/- didn't want to grind too much, so i filed it with a swiss file for 2 days checking for a horizontal level. I then hit it with 1K grit sand paper to smooth it like glass. The dilemma is the barrel seems to be canted to the naked eye one side seems to have a bigger gap at the tip where the barrel is free floated. I have tried using mini bubble levels to first level the stock then check the recoil lug, as you can see by the pics one side appears to need to come down a hair (which coincidentally is the side that appears to have the hair sized bigger gap to me) , I've been messing with it for a week and don't want to file any further as I would rather not shave off too much and not have the proper contact between action and stock. I folded a dollar bill and put it in the end of the stock to get a good sight of the gap at the free floated barrel end.


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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
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As you can see one side appears to need a little more filing but I'm afraid it is just not aligned right because when you look at the lug with the naked eye that same side appears somewhat lower. I know i should go by the readings from the level but again , I'm not a gunsmith. I do not want to bed this rifle with a canted recoil lug and honestly it seats fairly well. In addition, i was able to group cloverleafs at 100 yds. Ignore the stray. IMG_1565.jpg IMG_1525.jpg

......... The Grouping on the left has 3 rounds and the grouping to the right has 4 shots. The fact that they are on the left is probably because of me moving as i squeeze the trigger. I'm thinking I should just buy a new stock from boyds, they look good? any gunsmith advice would be appreciated as to how i can fix this.










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You'll never get there with a file, unless you can file perfictly flat and square. I've fixed alot of others smiths work, who, after years of gunsmithing still can't use a file. What i would do is take it to your smith. He'll most likely mill it out. If you used a release agent you may be able to drill and tab a hole and slide hammer it out. If no release agent was used its time to go to the mill. And start over.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
"go to the mill" as in buy a new stock? or try and drill out the steel recoil lug? if so , the next problem i foresee is the epoxy in the "hole" the recoil lug still will not seat correctly/flush with the stock.
 

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"go to the mill" as in buy a new stock? or try and drill out the steel recoil lug? if so , the next problem i foresee is the epoxy in the "hole" the recoil lug still will not seat correctly/flush with the stock.
Vertical milling machine ( see pic below) cut out old lug, start over with new lug.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ah "mill" thank you. I did consider taking it to a machine shop. Do you think the epoxy can be removed from the bottom of the "hole" for the recoil lug?
 

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Yea, you're gonna mill thru the metal to bare wood( don't go too deep and go all the way thru the stock). Epoxy is much softer than the lug. After your mortise is cut, tape up all sides of lug exept rear for clearance. Use release agent and bed it.
 

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If it shoots good the way it is leave the lug alone. Just open up the barrel channel alittle on the one side. Or freeze the lug tap with hammer may break it loose.

Cliffy
 

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If it shoots good the way it is leave the lug alone. Just open up the barrel channel alittle on the one side. Or freeze the lug tap with hammer may break it loose.

Cliffy

I couldn't just leave it alone, I would NEED to fix it! I know no one would ever see it but it would bug me. Its a pride thing. When I screw up and we all do, I have to fix it the right way, even if it comes out of my own pocket.
 

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I couldn't just leave it alone, I would NEED to fix it! I know no one would ever see it but it would bug me. Its a pride thing. When I screw up and we all do, I have to fix it the right way, even if it comes out of my own pocket.
I no what you saying and it would bug me too alittle. All I am saying if he happy with the way shoots and by the pictures its not off that much it would only take alittle work with rasp and sand paper. The other thing is to remove recoil lug than bed action so its centered in stock and than rebed the recoil lug from the action. Not hard but it going to take some time and some delicate work. Its all up to him it was just an option.

Cliffy
 

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I couldn't just leave it alone, I would NEED to fix it! I know no one would ever see it but it would bug me. Its a pride thing. When I screw up and we all do, I have to fix it the right way, even if it comes out of my own pocket.
I no what you saying and it would bug me too alittle. All I am saying if he happy with the way shoots and by the pictures its not off that much it would only take alittle work with rasp and sand paper. The other thing is to remove recoil lug than bed action so its centered in stock and than rebed the recoil lug from the action. Not hard but it going to take some time and some delicate work. Its all up to him it was just an option.

Cliffy
True, It depends on him.
 
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