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Wouldn't be to hard to build a lightweight rifle.

Use one of the Titanium actions
Proof research barrel
Manners/McMillan hunter stock.
Then use a high end hunting scope.

Should be pretty light. Probably to light for my liking.
Probably not even that complex or expensive if one's looking for a lightweight HUNTING rifle. Just go with a traditional styled stock with either pillars or action block installed. Since hunting doesn't often involve a lot of shots and barrel heat is not a factor, a heavy sporter barrel will most likely be adequate.

Kind of hard to build a "lightweight" rifle if using heavier barrels. Some of the heavier profiles weight 5-6 lbs alone, before action, stock, scope, bipod, and other gizmo's.
 

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So just build a "Hybrid". Get a 700 action, add barrel and trigger of your choice, then install it in an MDT-TAC21 Chassis. All the "look and feel" of an AR with the accuracy of a Bolt action.

I also recommend checking out XLR chassis. They are incredibly well made and function like a dream. Same idea and the MDT- AR ergonomics. XLR offers better value in my opinion. And I have read from a few sources that the v block on MDT chassis often require bedding.

Either chassis can be made to work with any AR-15 buttstock. Some require small modification or adapter.




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I also recommend checking out XLR chassis. They are incredibly well made and function like a dream. Same idea and the MDT- AR ergonomics. XLR offers better value in my opinion. And I have read from a few sources that the v block on MDT chassis often require bedding.

Either chassis can be made to work with any AR-15 buttstock. Some require small modification or adapter.






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Problem for me with the XLR chassis is that it's not a true "inline" design like the AR. The action drops into the top of the XLR and the stock still has too much drop at the heel for my likes. I think if you shot both, one after the other, you'd notice the difference in recoil management. Not saying it's bad, it just isn't what I was looking for.
 

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I like the MDT LSS and LSS XL. considering they're drop in, and you don't need to buy a bottom metal it's not a bad deal.
 

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Are you seriously going to shoot a thousand or is it a dream...And good long range rifle is
going to cost you meca bucks..A good scope is gonna be 2 grand at lease..
 

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Are you seriously going to shoot a thousand or is it a dream...And good long range rifle is
going to cost you meca bucks..A good scope is gonna be 2 grand at lease..

"Shooting" at a thousand is possible with just about any .24x to .3xx caliber rifle in off the shelf condition. It's "Hitting the target at a thousand that's difficult :cool:
 

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Are you seriously going to shoot a thousand or is it a dream...And good long range rifle is
going to cost you meca bucks..A good scope is gonna be 2 grand at lease..
I used a 600$ Rem 700 SPS Tac with a 800$ Vortex 2.5-10x, you can do it even cheaper than that. A fixed 12x SWFA (300$)on the same rifle

Rem 700p .308 26"
Vortex Gen 2 4.5-27x56 EBR-2C Mrad
HS Precision stock
Rem 700sps Tac .308 20"
Magpul Hunter 700 with DBM
Waiting on optics
Rem 700sps .308 26"
Vortex Gen 2 4.5-27x56 EBR-2C Mrad
BC A3 stock with Wyatte DBM
 

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$500 7mm rem mag model 700 used with Buckmasters scope
$275 B&C medalist stock
$110 Timney 510 trigger
$885 produced a .844 MOA group at 1000 yrds
 

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Get a trued Remington 700 action from either PTG or Bruno.

Get a Criterion "Rem-age" barrel in your caliber and cartridge of choosing, and install it on the action above.

Pillar and Glass both into a decent take-off laminate stock, or one from McMillan, Manners, or HS Precision.

Carefully mount a decent sighting system.

Clean everything up, torque to spec, and begin loading to find the load that will hammer the centers out of targets.


-Nate

If one went this route what tools would one need? From my initial research I've found:
- Barrel vise
- Barrel nut wrench
- Go/No Go gauge

Also, would the stock/chassis need to be modified to fit the barrel nut?

Thanks in advance!
 

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If one went this route what tools would one need? From my initial research I've found:
- Barrel vise
- Barrel nut wrench
- Go/No Go gauge

Also, would the stock/chassis need to be modified to fit the barrel nut?

Thanks in advance!
Those are the tools you'll need. Lots of videos on YouTube showing/explaining the process.

You may have to remove material for the nut to fit, or you may not. Just depends on what stock/chassis you get. It's nothing you can't fix with a dremel and taking your time.
 

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An action wrench or vise makes setting the head space much easier as well. For modifying barrel channels in stocks, i use PVC pipe and sand paper. Get some pieces of 1", 1 1/4", 1 1/2" pieces of PVC about 12" long and wrap sand paper around, use it to open up the barrel channel or in front of the action for the barrel nut.
 

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You may have to remove material for the nut to fit, or you may not. Just depends on what stock/chassis you get. It's nothing you can't fix with a dremel and taking your time.
Thanks! and the glass bedding would take care of any imperfections between the modified stock and the action right?
 

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Thanks! and the glass bedding would take care of any imperfections between the modified stock and the action right?
Yes on the bottom half of the action. If you try and bed above that you'll fix your action into the stock for good.
 
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