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I have a smaller build, but love larger guns, and was wondering what to do to help with the kick. last time I shot a .40 cal handgun, I thought my wrists were going to break. and the 12 gage I shot knocked me back a good foot or two. what can I do to prevent this?
 

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You could try a recoil pad for the shotgun.....a .40 shouldn't be hurting your wrists unless its like a sub sub compact.

Stance can be a big factor as well......with a shot gun while standing you want to lean into it a bit....don't keep your back straight.....smaller people have the bad tendency on even leaning back to help balance out the weight of the gun.....this is bound to send you flying when you pull the trigger....have some one take a picture of your posture while you are shooting....you might not know how bad it is until you see it.

With handguns.....find a comfy 2 handed grip but don't grip it too hard.... just stay a bit lose.....the gun is not going to come flying out of your hands unless you are barly holding on. Most people over grip handguns especcial larger calibers because they fear the kick with be extreme. A lot of large caliber handguns and rifles don't kick that much more then a regular one because of added weight.....muzzlebreaks...compensators....ect. You will be fine.
 

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For rifles, muzzlebrakes are an option as well as the nice recoil pads (Highly recommend the Pac. Decelrator pads)

For pistols, porting is an option.

Most of all, good shooting position as FLEA mentioned is the cheapest way, and can provide tremendous results.

MEL
 

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sometimes its just a matter of getting used to the recoil
but a recoil pad is the best way to lighten the felt recoil
and muzzle brakes are good on rifles just some of them push the sound in differnt directions which makes them LOUD heh
 

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Like others before me have said, shooting position and getting used to the recoil, along with a good recoil pad, can tame any type of gun. If I, at 123lbs, can shoot a .300wm without many complaints, then you should be able to shoot a 12 gauge and a .40cal. with some practice and technique.

Get out and shoot as much as possible! It is the best way to help overcome your problem.

Chris
 

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Id say the best way is stance and i belive if you need a muzzle break the rifle is too damn big. and my dad who weighs 125 130 shot his 300 WM for years never complained. Just my 2 cents.
 

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i weigh 145 and shoot 300WM,7mmREMMAG, and other magnums frequently, granted i am used to it but the also all have good recoil pads, i was shown how to hold the gun properly and other things, for shotguns there is many shootin companies around trap shooting that make recould reducimg systems, like stocks with like a shock in it..nifty stuff i even once had one...o and u can also try lighter loads with the shotgun..maybe target loads, my loads for trap is a federal gold medal case, federal 209 primer,19 grains of 700x,federal 12SO wad and 1 ounce of hard 8's....light recoil but also quick, can brak em a the 27 yard line
 

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im 6'4 225, muscular but ive seen people bigger than me not be able to handle a .300 Winchester magnum and people half my size handle it
a good recoil pad is nice and always helps and makes it more comforatble
i think i can speak for everyone here who can/does shoot .300 WM without flinching
we still do feel it, just we get used to it, it doesnt bother us as much as it did the first time we shot a magnum or the first time we shot something that would be considered 'punishing'
i dont own a .300 Win mag but i have shot many of them, they have a kick which is acceptable for hunting but im not so sure you would want to take a 7 1/2 lb hunting rifle and use it for benchrest shooting for an extended session
its all mentality in my opinion
 

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Actually, different pain thresholds make us perceive recoil differently, as does the difference in sound pressure. I'm 179cm tall and weigh 78kg's, and I can handle a .338 Lapua Magnum, but it becomes uncomfortable after a while.

About muzzle brakes, it's a good idea, especially if you intend to do long shooting sessions. No need to bruise your shoulder more than necessary, it's just senseless :D
 

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or you could simply go down to a more practical, less expensive, less recoiling, less noisy caliber if you intend to keep your shooting at close ranges ie .223 or .308... very accurate rounds, low recoil, capable of producing very respeectable grops (.308 at longer ranges too and being good for any game on my continent with the proper ammo and a good hutner who knows where to hit game and the aim to get the bullet there)
i can handle a Remington 700 Sendero SF w/ out a muzzle brake in .300 or .338 Rem Ultra Mag for a little while but the only .338 Lapua i have fired (Dakota T-76 Longbow) had a muzzle brake on it and kicked quite a bit less than the 10 lb Sendero SFs did cause it was heaiver and had a muzzle brake
i have never shot a .338 without a muzzle brake but i think it would be a wise move to have one on there
 

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Jeff_850:

A muzzle brake is good even if you shoot 7.62x51 or 6.5x55, since you can have extended sessions then(Ammo supply permitting, of course).

I've fired a big Weatherby without a muzzle brake... I don't want to imagine even a mere 40-shot session with that setup...
 

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agreed a muzzle brake would be helpful for longer sessions but im not gonna bother putting one in my Rem 700P its 10 lbs now and thats a good weight for a .308 to have little kick to it even though i have done 200 round sessions i dont think ill be doing that all too often again heh

i shot 50 rounds in 1 session with a the Sendero SF .300 RUM w/ out muzzle brake... wow you really feel it only reason i continued till i was out of ammo is cause i didnt want to look like a wuss i was still able to hold the rifle and shoot it without breaking my shoulder... didnt know the owner of the rifle only went 20 rounds in 1 session... now that i do i wont go that many rounds ;)
 
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