I've been shooting close range all my life with a .22LR. How would I go about the change to start long range shooting, and what rifle would you recomend to someone on a VERY limated budget. I am a very good shot and know at least the basics of all the advanced shooting tecniques.
Kid seeks long range advice
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Before I make any chambering recommendations I would want to know what is the purpose for the long-range shooting - probably Target, but could be Hunting. More importantly, what do you consider long-range? 400 yards, 600 yards, 1,000 yards?
To most hunters anything over 300 yards is too far away to be taking a shot. If you are a truely gifted marksman, you can certainly shoot that far, but generally do not have to do so to make your kill.
If you are a varmint hunter, then the ultra long-range shooting is brought to bear. I think the longest confirmed kill in 2003 was right at 2,800 yards. The .300 Win. Mag. set up cost something like $8,000 to custom build and the guy that built it owned his own machine shop. It takes pretty good shooting to nail a 10 inch tall by 4-5 inch wide critter at nearly 2 miles.
The NRA has Palma matches that shoot out to 1,000 yards with open sights. These competitors shoot incredibly small groups from long range using a 155 grain .308 bullet and no scope. That's shooting.
Alternatively, you could shoot highpower rifle (probably with a .308 or .223) out to 1,000, or "F" class at 1,000 and use a scope. Lots of alternatives to choose from.
You can use a rifle chambered in .308 for any or all of these long-range events (although event specific rifles are generally the norm - meaning a Palma rifle is not something you would use in a highpower or "F" Class match). Lots of choices.
I use a .308 now (but have a 6.5x284 on the way for F Class out to 1,000 yards). My 700-PSS shot 1/2 MOA right out of the box. It cost roughly $700, but then there is the scope, bi-pod and ammo to consider. All-in-all not cheap.
You could do it with a different and less expensive rifle, like the Savage 10-FP, and I suspect there are few "box" rifles that will equal these two in accuracy (maybe the Remington VSS or somebody's standard varmint rifle). If I'm wrong we'll both know better in a second or two.
To most hunters anything over 300 yards is too far away to be taking a shot. If you are a truely gifted marksman, you can certainly shoot that far, but generally do not have to do so to make your kill.
If you are a varmint hunter, then the ultra long-range shooting is brought to bear. I think the longest confirmed kill in 2003 was right at 2,800 yards. The .300 Win. Mag. set up cost something like $8,000 to custom build and the guy that built it owned his own machine shop. It takes pretty good shooting to nail a 10 inch tall by 4-5 inch wide critter at nearly 2 miles.
The NRA has Palma matches that shoot out to 1,000 yards with open sights. These competitors shoot incredibly small groups from long range using a 155 grain .308 bullet and no scope. That's shooting.
Alternatively, you could shoot highpower rifle (probably with a .308 or .223) out to 1,000, or "F" class at 1,000 and use a scope. Lots of alternatives to choose from.
You can use a rifle chambered in .308 for any or all of these long-range events (although event specific rifles are generally the norm - meaning a Palma rifle is not something you would use in a highpower or "F" Class match). Lots of choices.
I use a .308 now (but have a 6.5x284 on the way for F Class out to 1,000 yards). My 700-PSS shot 1/2 MOA right out of the box. It cost roughly $700, but then there is the scope, bi-pod and ammo to consider. All-in-all not cheap.
You could do it with a different and less expensive rifle, like the Savage 10-FP, and I suspect there are few "box" rifles that will equal these two in accuracy (maybe the Remington VSS or somebody's standard varmint rifle). If I'm wrong we'll both know better in a second or two.
heh... jeffvn, you are right!!
The first thing is to determine what type of shooting you will be doing, and then what your budget is (for just the rifle, and then for the rifle/optics). If you are on a very limited budget, as indicated, your options become limited. Savage is about the cheapest, and their modular type design makes them easy to upgrade, just not as many parts. To be honest though, it may be worth trying an old' swedish 96 mauser, I've heard some amazing things about these surplus rifles (like 1 - 1.5 MOA from a surplus rifle!!) Not sure about scope mounting though... and you might get some intereting looks at the range
hum... could be the makings of an interesting write up "The ultimate affordable long range rifle"
MEL
The first thing is to determine what type of shooting you will be doing, and then what your budget is (for just the rifle, and then for the rifle/optics). If you are on a very limited budget, as indicated, your options become limited. Savage is about the cheapest, and their modular type design makes them easy to upgrade, just not as many parts. To be honest though, it may be worth trying an old' swedish 96 mauser, I've heard some amazing things about these surplus rifles (like 1 - 1.5 MOA from a surplus rifle!!) Not sure about scope mounting though... and you might get some intereting looks at the range
hum... could be the makings of an interesting write up "The ultimate affordable long range rifle"
MEL
If you can find a surplus M/41(Both primary and B model) in good condition, 1 MOA should definitely be possible. It's possible that you might have to do a little barrel "restoration". The M/96's tend to be far worse off, unfortunately, since they were only produced and delivered to the Swedish army between 1896 and 1925. The M/41 was produced and delivered between 1941 and 1943, but still based on the Mauser 1893, just like the M/96.
If you are feeling adventurous, you could try and get hold of a Gevär 6 or 7. Both were delivered in 1964, and were only used for match shooting. Both are based on the Mauser 1893 but Gevär 6 is chambered for 6.5x55, while Gevär 7 is chambered for 7.62x51(Yep, it's an odd mix).
If you are feeling adventurous, you could try and get hold of a Gevär 6 or 7. Both were delivered in 1964, and were only used for match shooting. Both are based on the Mauser 1893 but Gevär 6 is chambered for 6.5x55, while Gevär 7 is chambered for 7.62x51(Yep, it's an odd mix).
I will be hunting, target shooting, and I'm considering becoming a sniper. Long range means however far my rifle will shoot. I was considering a .308 because they seem to be the best all around and I'm comfortable with the way my 30-30 kicks.
cwlcgk:
But, read the forums, there have already been a lot of good advice about packages and so. As for becoming a sniper, which branch were you thinking of trying for, law enforcement or military?
One personal advice I can give is to get used to shooting with average grade equipment. If you only get used to top-grade equipment, there's a large possibility that you get somewhat spoiled
But, read the forums, there have already been a lot of good advice about packages and so. As for becoming a sniper, which branch were you thinking of trying for, law enforcement or military?
One personal advice I can give is to get used to shooting with average grade equipment. If you only get used to top-grade equipment, there's a large possibility that you get somewhat spoiled
cwlcgk:
Better get used to shooting with non-match ammo too, since you might not always have that grade of ammo available.
In short, plan and practice for the worst, and hope for the best(And bypass the paperpushers as much as possible, with the possible exception of the quartermaster, whom you should probably be very friendly with) :wink:
Better get used to shooting with non-match ammo too, since you might not always have that grade of ammo available.
In short, plan and practice for the worst, and hope for the best(And bypass the paperpushers as much as possible, with the possible exception of the quartermaster, whom you should probably be very friendly with) :wink:
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11 Posts
ive got a 700 VS chaimbered for .223 and it shoots 1\2MOA right out of box although i have made a few groups 1\4MOA at 100 yards when i use Hornady Moly Coated. infact the only thing i am adding is a cheek piece purely for comfort. but i also would say, this might be a better deal then the 700p i got my VS for $600 and from what i have come to understand the only diffrence between the 700VS and 700P is the stock. although if anybody could actually tell me any other diffrence i would be interested to hear them.
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17 Posts
Better get more familiar with something bigger than .22 kid, may make you squint a few rounds, but you will eventually get use to it.
I was thinking of palma... atleast they dont shoot like they did in the older days.. they would lay on their backs and fire crossed legged with the barrel on their leg. They would hold the butt of the rifle with their hand... kinda freaky, but whatever works for you...
I was thinking of palma... atleast they dont shoot like they did in the older days.. they would lay on their backs and fire crossed legged with the barrel on their leg. They would hold the butt of the rifle with their hand... kinda freaky, but whatever works for you...
I shoot a 30-30 winchester I use it for hunting, but I do shoot it at paper targets when I get the chance. If I could get a used bolt-action hunting rifle, like a remington, for a couple hundred dollars would it be a good enough rifle to start on?
cwlcgk:
If the rifle is in good condition, it could be a good practice platform until you can afford something else. Ultimately it depends on your budget. It might get easier for people to recommend something for you if you mention about how much you can afford to spend.
If the rifle is in good condition, it could be a good practice platform until you can afford something else. Ultimately it depends on your budget. It might get easier for people to recommend something for you if you mention about how much you can afford to spend.
Assuming that the rifle doesn't need any work from the get-go about $200 is all I can afford to spend on the rifle. And MABEY another hundred on optics. To spend that much though I would either need to keep it forever or be able to sell it.
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11 Posts
I think you are talking about credemore *not sure on spelling* but i thought it was credemore that they did all the funky positions, i could be wrong thoughNate_Sniper said:
G
Guest
·It's going to be tough getting started with that kind of budget! You might want to look for an H&R Handi Rifle in .223. This is a break-open single shot with exposed hammer. You can probably get one for what you're willing to spend if you look hard enough. They look kind of cheesey, but they usually shoot amazingly well. Some basic Weaver style bases and rings should be plenty to mount the scope. See if you can find a dealer that carries Swift brand scopes. They are pretty low price and the optics are surprizingly good for the money. For ammo, I'd just experiment with the cheap brands (Wolf, USA, etc.) until I found one tht shoots decently. Most of the cheap ammo can be had for under $4 a box. Good luck
K2
K2
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372 Posts
Ahem, an Remington 700 ADL is a viable choice for 200. I've seen them get in that range on sale, used, etc.
A hinged floorplate isn't that nessesary, especially since the Military is going to teach it to him "thier way" regardless. Which, I might add, is a good thing.
Good luck whichever route you go!
A hinged floorplate isn't that nessesary, especially since the Military is going to teach it to him "thier way" regardless. Which, I might add, is a good thing.
Good luck whichever route you go!
G
Guest
·Man! If you can find a shootable 700 of any description for $200 or under, GRAB IT! A good used 700 ADL will run you closer to $300 around here
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