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I was shooting my Garand the other day and had a problem. I was using korean mil surp ammo. I had shot several clips. The last clip I shot the bolt locked back like the rifle was empty but I had one round left in the clip. I bumped that one into position and fired the last round. The bolt locked back again but did not kick out the clip like it is supposed to. Also the bbl was very hot. I was taking my time between clips and even 2-3 rounds at a time to check zero, but it was so hot the handguard would almost burn your hand. Wayyy to hot. My best guess is a weak spring, but I am afraid I may have a bent op rod or something as well. Antone have any input. I have had this thing for several years and never has it jammed on me. Anyone have any other ideas ? How far off do you think I am?
 

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i've worked with the type action for a while, and i wonder if it might not be from a malfunctioning bolt lock or dirty gas cylinder n piston... it is dirty it can give you weird results.... just the cuases of problems i've had with my m14. hope it helps.
 

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M1 Garand

a possible cause of the problem is the clip latch the part that actually ejects the spent/full clip if it is sticking or damaged possibly has debris under it ,that causes the problem you mention ,sometimes it will kick the 7th rd out with the clip after the 6th is fired . as for the barrel heat problem dunno there ,hope this helps
 

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I am not sure what's wrong with that Garand. But first you should clean it very, very carefully. I would remove the action from the stock and I'd blast brake cleaner into wherever I could find dirt.

Once it was totally clean, I'd oil it all down. But I'd make sure not to leave any oil near any of the gas system parts.

Then I'd put the gun back together again and I'd check the function using action proving dummies. These are special dummy rounds available from Brownell's. Using the action proving dummies, I'd find out whether the problem was repeatable with a cool barrel.

And that's how I'd start. And if I could not figure it all out, I'd just send the gun to the Fulton Armory, where they know the Garand.


Mad
 

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The clip problem is most likely the clip latch spring, if it's weak the problem you are having is fairly common, as is ejecting the clip early. I would suggest a new clip latch and spring. Look at the latch itself if the end looks worn replace it when you do the spring.

As for the barrel heat, mine get pretty toasty on hot days, but not as hot as it sounds yours is getting. What is the head stamp on the ammo? If its KA then it is corrosive ammo and I hope you are cleaning as if it is, if is PS then its not corrosive, but has had some quality control problems in certain lots. mostly in the 1974 ammo but some in 75. Try removing the gas cylinder and carefully cleaning it, I use a 12GA bore mop and some solvent. The oprod does have a set of bends in it, so dont panic if you see those, they are supposed to be there. Most times with a bent rod, it would not function more than one or two rounds at a time.

PM me if none of this works, I might be able to help more.
 

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The KA stuff was advertised as NC by many places at first, but it is for sure corrosive, this was a big topic on the CMP forums last year, as several guys lost gas systems to the stuff, since they did not clean for corrosive ammo.

For all that dont know this, a quick way to clean for corrosive ammo is to use windex with amonia, followed by your normal solvent and oil. Others are good old soap and water, or Sweets 762, but follow the directions.

Corrosion fouled barrels do get hot fast, but I hope that is not the cause of the problem. Just auick thought, how did the recoil feel, and the report sound when you were firing? Was the ammo sitting out in the hot sun in a can? The usual cause for barrel heat up is pressure, which would result in loud reports, and harder than normal kick. Roasted ammo can get the pressure up in a hurry.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
mlammers said:
The KA stuff was advertised as NC by many places at first, but it is for sure corrosive, this was a big topic on the CMP forums last year, as several guys lost gas systems to the stuff, since they did not clean for corrosive ammo.

For all that dont know this, a quick way to clean for corrosive ammo is to use windex with amonia, followed by your normal solvent and oil. Others are good old soap and water, or Sweets 762, but follow the directions.

Corrosion fouled barrels do get hot fast, but I hope that is not the cause of the problem. Just auick thought, how did the recoil feel, and the report sound when you were firing? Was the ammo sitting out in the hot sun in a can? The usual cause for barrel heat up is pressure, which would result in loud reports, and harder than normal kick. Roasted ammo can get the pressure up in a hurry.
Recoil and noise were normal. This is the first time I fired the korean stuff and I know the last stuff was non corrosive. I am going to order a wolff spring kit since it probably needs new springs anyway. As for the bbl heating up the ammo was warm, but again no overpressure type problems that I noticed. Thanks for all the feedback.
 

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Sounds to me like the oprod spring is weak. I had pretty much the same problem with an old M1 and i replaced the spring and it worked fine.

Heres how i figure.

If the spring is more weak than it should be, it will be pushed back easier allowing it to lock in the open position when its not suppose to be. And if the spring is weak it wont kick the clip out since the spring isnt pushing hard enough against the other parts.
 

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It may be a timeing issue. my suggestion is pretty much what everyone else said clean it very well and cycle some dummy rounds through it and see if it the problem is still there
 

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first and foremost, if the weapons maintence isn't up to par, its no fault of the weapon if it doesn't operate right. when doing a good dissassembly of it ensure to clean each and every nook an cranny, re-inspect, re-clean, then re-assemble.... might find the ole workhorse will work again without problem. if the gun has sat for a while, moisture could have gathered up in the operating rod and spring causing some minor rust... just an observation from experience. overall i hope the garand starts working again for you.
 

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The thing about the ol M-1 Garand is that is was made to work with US M2 Ball ammo and that alone. And work it does. The problem is once you put some non US made ammo through it and ammo that is non M2 Ball it tends to bend the op rod and make things not work to good. The operation of the M1 was designed with the burn rate of IMR 4895 powder with a 150gr FMJBT military bullet.

Way back when DuPont owned IMR all the 30-06 ammo loaded to M2 ball specs worked great for the ol M1. The problem is, DuPont no longer owns IMR and most 30-06 ammo that is foriegn made uses a powder in similar burn rate to IMR 4064. IMR 4064 is a more clean burning and less muzzle flashive powder than IMR 4895, thats why it is used instead.

There inlies the problem. The ammo is called the same thing but in reality is not. Serious M1 shooters load there own ammo to US 30-6 M2 specs. Another problem is, not every one can load there own ammo.

If we are talking about the same korean ought six ammo it comes in a bandoleer with the ammo in the en-bloc clips? That ammo is real dirty burning and is corrosive primed. I would not suggest using it.

Anyway, back to the subject. I would highly suggest a very very thourough cleaning and lubrication with a thick grease, not oil, on all contact points. Use Remington UMC 30-06 150gr MC ammo. It comes in a yellow box and is very cheap in price. It is the best cheap ammo i have found for using in my M1's, and the brass is very good.

If the problem keeps up with the oprod locking in the rear empty position when it is not indeed empty, replace the op-rod spring.

If the problem keeps up with the en-bloc clip not ejecting when it is suppose to, check the clip ejector ( where the ejector hits the nose on the clip to eject it), it is probably worn down.


If you do decide to use the corrosive primered surplus ammo i would highly suggest bringing a cleaning rod and a few patchs and some cleaning oil to the range with you and directly after done shooting, put a few patchs with cleaning oil down the bore. This will help it not begin to rust on your trip home and possibly over night if you dont clean that night / day.
 

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The new oprod spring, and clip latch are good ideas that I mentioned before.

I will say the Korean ammo is ok, it does shoot a little dirty, and the KA headstamp is corrosive. The PS headstamp is made Poonsang Metal Corp(PMC) is non corrosive and ships in 20rd boxes in a 50 cal ammo can. I have used hundreds of (maybe more than 1000 rds of it) rounds, and have had no problems. Both kinds are loaded to M2 Ball Spec and were loaded specially for the M1 and 1919MGs the ROK still had in inventory through the 80s. They are made on machinery provided by the US and use 4895 for the propellant. If you shoot corrosive use windex or some other cleaning solution with amonia, otherwise you will get rust(GI bore cleaner, Sweets, Hoppes Benchrest no #9).

Best bet is to buy CMP surplus LC ball,if you want I can make a big buy and send it out, I will be at Perry this month and next and can pick it up at the store by the case.
 
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