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Discussion Starter #21
Hornady doesn't show h335 as a option, lyman show h380 as best performing in their test on 150 gr pills. Alot of lymans data has been dead on target for me.. i almost always start with their suggestions


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That’s perfect. That pic has the H335! Thank you!!!!!! I’m gonna try a batch at 38gr and see how they perform. I’m cycling the H335 at 41.0 with 150 pills. Seems to be working fine. But I don’t know if I’m slowly damaging the gun or not. So if I shoot with 38g maybe that’ll help the gun last longer? Plus I’ll get more rounds out of a pound of powder. That’s also a plus.


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That’s perfect. That pic has the H335! Thank you!!!!!! I’m gonna try a batch at 38gr and see how they perform. I’m cycling the H335 at 41.0 with 150 pills. Seems to be working fine. But I don’t know if I’m slowly damaging the gun or not. So if I shoot with 38g maybe that’ll help the gun last longer? Plus I’ll get more rounds out of a pound of powder. That’s also a plus.


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Send me a picture of a fired case where the rim area is and lets pretend wherever your barrel points is 12 O'clock, make note of what path the case ejection is ex:1, 2,3,, 4, 5 O'clock etc

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Discussion Starter #23
Send me a picture of a fired case where the rim area is and lets pretend wherever your barrel points is 12 O'clock, make note of what path the case ejection is ex:1, 2,3,, 4, 5 O'clock etc

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It’s 12 o clock. Every shot is 12 o clock. It’s an RFB it stands fit Rifle Forward ejecting Bullpup. All the spec cases shoot in front of the gun. It’s one of their special features.


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It’s 12 o clock. Every shot is 12 o clock. It’s an RFB it stands fit Rifle Forward ejecting Bullpup. All the spec cases shoot in front of the gun. It’s one of their special features.


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No, I meant in relationship of direction barrel is pointing but thats not relevant on bottom ejection

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Discussion Starter #28
No, I meant in relationship of direction barrel is pointing but thats not relevant on bottom ejection

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It’s not a bottom ejection. It’s a forward ejection. The case slides from the chamber down a little chute and drops alongside the barrel. It’s nice for reloading cause your brass is right in front of your shooting station and your brass isn’t crashing down on the cement ground or the iron posts holding the roof up. I just can’t believe the LC ammo I got was military spec. So I had to hand swagger them out. My forearms are still sore from a few nights ago


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It’s not a bottom ejection. It’s a forward ejection. The case slides from the chamber down a little chute and drops alongside the barrel. It’s nice for reloading cause your brass is right in front of your shooting station and your brass isn’t crashing down on the cement ground or the iron posts holding the roof up. I just can’t believe the LC ammo I got was military spec. So I had to hand swagger them out. My forearms are still sore from a few nights ago


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Lol. Rcbs makes a sufficiently affective tool to can put in a drill and make cutting that crimp simple

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Discussion Starter #30
Send me a picture of a fired case where the rim area is and lets pretend wherever your barrel points is 12 O'clock, make note of what path the case ejection is ex:1, 2,3,, 4, 5 O'clock etc

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Also these are the primers I just bought. I hope it doesn’t cause an AD


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Also these are the primers I just bought. I hope it doesn’t cause an AD


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No, those are good primers meant for free floating pin AR type rifles. I dont know how that model kel tec works, have not got to tear one apart yet but those primers will be good.. brass looks fine without a close up, no obvious extraction claw marks, no extrusions

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Discussion Starter #32
No, those are good primers meant for free floating pin AR type rifles. I dont know how that model kel tec works, have not got to tear one apart yet but those primers will be good.. brass looks fine without a close up, no obvious extraction claw marks, no extrusions

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The primers in the picture are Federal 210M.


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Discussion Starter #33
No, those are good primers meant for free floating pin AR type rifles. I dont know how that model kel tec works, have not got to tear one apart yet but those primers will be good.. brass looks fine without a close up, no obvious extraction claw marks, no extrusions

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I’m replacing the primers in the photo for the CCI #35 military NATO primers because I can’t get anything else.


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Discussion Starter #35
Thats good, you can't go wrong with #35 for large and #41 for small

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I’m just hoping I don’t get slam fires in this 308. Now that it works as advertised (needed to return it 2x) it’s became my #2 rifle. Nothing will win over the Savage Stealth. I’m so glad I got the solution I needed from Hodgdon. I’m gonna try the 38gr loads and see how they are. I’ll let you know as soon as my new 308 dies arrive. In case you didn’t see it, in the photo of the spent cases my die is sitting next to it. My die is dead


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I’m just hoping I don’t get slam fires in this 308. Now that it works as advertised (needed to return it 2x) it’s became my #2 rifle. Nothing will win over the Savage Stealth. I’m so glad I got the solution I needed from Hodgdon. I’m gonna try the 38gr loads and see how they are. I’ll let you know as soon as my new 308 dies arrive. In case you didn’t see it, in the photo of the spent cases my die is sitting next to it. My die is dead


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Thats the point of #41 and 35 is to eliminate slamfire because the harder cups. Like i said the keltec may have a firing pin that doesn't free float so regular primers may be fine but you can't go wrong on #35 or 41. I think a study was done showing they are nearly the consistency of bench rest primers.. you ARE good to go with the 35s

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Discussion Starter #37
Thats the point of #41 and 35 is to eliminate slamfire because the harder cups. Like i said the keltec may have a firing pin that doesn't free float so regular primers may be fine but you can't go wrong on #35 or 41. I think a study was done showing they are nearly the consistency of bench rest primers.. you ARE good to go with the 35s

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Thank you! Maybe I’ll buy more since I don’t know how long they’ll be there.


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Discussion Starter #38
Thats the point of #41 and 35 is to eliminate slamfire because the harder cups. Like i said the keltec may have a firing pin that doesn't free float so regular primers may be fine but you can't go wrong on #35 or 41. I think a study was done showing they are nearly the consistency of bench rest primers.. you ARE good to go with the 35s

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Ok. I made a mistake. It’s not CCI #35 it’s CCI #34


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