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Discussion Starter #1
New to the site choose after searching many forums/databases because of the most promising information so far.

I recently purchased a Mauser action rifle w/ a custom barrel in .308win and synthetic stock. The price was beyond good($250) and as far as I can tell the rifle is in great shape. People cave when you have cash in hand.

But from here I am lost the bolt handle has been modified to clear the scope mounts but the safety has not been. Searching the forum I saw talk of aftermarket bolts w/ no mention of where to find such products.

I am also interested if anyone can help figure out more about which action I have and whether I should have any concerns(dump it because it might have problems). The only markings remaining on the gun are on the bolt "194."
 

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Welcome to the boards!

If you have a chance and the ability, snap a digital photo of the rifle and a closeup of the action. It will help in IDing the action.

Mauser actions are a good base to build rifles on, and chances are you should be fine. Now, I don't necessarily understand what the problem is. You said the bolt handle is turned down so you can use it with a scope, but the safety is not? Its generally not a good idea to replace the whole bolt, but you can replace just the safety on your bolt. Check http://www.brownells.com for some replacement options

MEL
 

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Slap a Timney trigger with a new safety (remington style) on it.You'll have to alter the stock a lil, but thats the route I'm going. I perfer the Mauser safety but I'll have one nice trigger
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The only real problems are the 3 postion safety does not clear the scope that is on it right now. The gun also does not eject the shells right the tend to sit in the open breech.
It already has rails mounted on it so the reason I didnt mention the scope because the current one will be gone very soon.

On other sites I have read about the breeches being weakened with heavier loads due to the thumb cut.
I have only put 3 rounds through it to make sure the thing shoots. Before that I pulled the stock and made sure everything hidden looked as good as the rest of the gun. I will get pics up sometime Sat. when I have some extra time.
Thank you for all the help.
 

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Don't worry about the thumb slot. Your action will be just fine assuming it is in good condition.

If you have a Mauser in good condition, it will safely handle any sane load.
What vintage is your action? I ask because some of the later WW2 German actions should probably be avoided.

Here is how I rate 98 Mauser:

1907-1918--German, and Austrian Steyr--beautifully made but should be used with lighter loads. Not with full house 50,000psi loads. For use with 7mm Mauser or equivalent loads.

1930s production: Superb (Czech BRNO actions and Oberndorf actions)

1939-1942 German, Czech, Belgian etc. excellent

1942-1943. German--good

1944-1945. German--Be careful of these

1950s production: Belgian Fabrique National--superb


Mad
 

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Welcome to the forums mausernewb. Any German manufactured WW2 or pre WW2 era Mauser action should be restored to its original configuration... but if you bought it i guess you can drill on it all you want :cry: . Hope you get it all figured out :wink:
 

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Mad, you are the man!

If I may hijack this thread a little, it was seriously good to read what you said. I have an FN 1952 military production action on its way to me right now as well as a Douglas No7 contour heavy barrel in 30-06. So I'm happy to know I made a good choice. Has Leupold mounts already so I think I'll throw a Leupold Mk4 3-9X40 on it, and a glass bedded Boyds varmint/target stock will complete the package. With a Timney trigger of course.

If you're having failures to feed, maybe you should pick up one of the new magazine springs from Brownells. They are supposed to be 10% stronger. And mine will have a Timney trigger with a side mounted safety to clear the scope.

Even though its not entirely DIY since I will need a smith to do some of the work on it, I can start a thread in the DIY section if anyone would like that, talking about the process of building the rifle, and showing off some pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Extraction is the issue not feeding the round will disengage from the bolt but not eject. Is this due to using .308 if so I guess I can live with that.

As luck would have it my digital camera puked and died today lol. Well as far as identifying the action I have been looking at a mauser cross reference on http://www.hoosiergunworks.com/catalog/mauser_reference.html
and assuming screw spacing means floorplate screws I believe it is similar to a small ring m93. Dont laugh if I am completely wrong but I am used to working w/ slightly newer stuff. I beginning to think I should have stuck with pistols. First custom gun experience is becoming confusing especially when someone gave you a head start and no info.
 

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How fast are you operating the bolt when it does not eject? Does it not eject no matter how fast you pull the bolt rearward? Is it fully extracting? Have you looked at the ejector.... it might be worn off or been cut / filed down for some reason. Pull the bolt all the way to the rear as far as you can... then look at the ejector... how far is it protruding out of the face of the bolt? It should be sticking out about 3mm's or so. Here is a pic of the face of the bolt of my K-98 Mauser. You can clearly see the Ejector circled in RED. That is what should be protruding out of the face of the bolt about 3mm's.


 

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IS THAT PIC BIG ENOUGH :eek: . Damn lol :lol:
 

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You got to it before I could, BC...Saved me a mauser pic :D

I'm bettin his ejector is worn down.
 

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mauser help

from the pic you posted it does not appear the bolt has been altered for a scope ,looks like the standard mauser bolt which was bent but not for scope mounting ,as for as a safety Brownells,has sevweral fron simple to great including the side swing model 70 type check them out most require some amount of fitting
 

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UUUUHHH... The picture i posted was of a K-98... if any one drilled and taped a REAL German WW2 K-98 they ought to be shot... I was showing him the ejector and where it was and how far it should protrude out of the face of the bolt... since he is new to Mausers.
 
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