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Klopinger said:
Yugo M48- My first rifle :) I bought this from Mitchell's Mausers about 5 years ago.
World War 2 metalurgy--stay below 50K PSI pressures--even if it does have a barrel with modern metalurgy the action does not.

BTW I love Mausers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
(Avolcek)
You have a strong point. Should the bolt face also be dry? No I haven't trimmed my brass before because I didn't have a case trimmer. I just checked their length and compared it with the one listed in Sierra5th. I have one coming in the mail now.

Could you perhaps tell me how to identify, or show me pics of the beginning signs of overpressure? Is there a particular distance off the lands that I should start with? Should I also scrub the bore inbetween loads? I won't be going out again for probably another week and a half; I'll deffiently post updates on the reworked batch.

MitchAlsup: Atleast the 76 isn't. They're awesome, deffinently my favorite rifle.
 

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Klopinger,

You've got some truly life-saving advice here. I don't mean to be rude or nasty, but don't you have a reloading manual? Most today have extremely informative chapters that go over almost every aspect of reloading, including signs of overpressure, and what not to do.

You've been terribly lucky with the rounds you loaded.

It's just time to stop your entire operation, and go back to step one: buy Hornaday's reloading manual. (It's one of the best.) Read the entire first part of the book three times. Take notes. Please.

You need to know about rifle case expansion, trimming, and when you no longer should consider using the brass. Even brass that is too long can lead to huge problems, as you might be finding out.

Go back, as another poster has advised, and start BELOW the minimum in the recipe, and work up. Personally, I work up more slowly than 1 grain increments, especially as I get closer to the max loading.

Your entire process should be somewhat revamped. Have an idea of the brass length before it's fired, and keep track of how much it lengthens after each firing. Trim it back, maybe after only two firings, maybe three, sometimes four. It just depends.

And this is true of anybody... If you're reloading ammunition without a manual, with no idea of what signs to look for - stop right now. Educate yourself. Ask others to show you. Your life and health depends on it, as well as anybody that is even NEAR you when you shoot.

Trust me, there have been several times I've stepped FAR away when somebody next to me is "testing some new ammo." I've avoided one kaboom that way. I'm positive I would have been injured that day.

Thanks for listening, let us know how it goes, and please be safe.
 

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Another thing to keep in mind is that you really should make sure that you aren't jamming your bullet into the lands. This is usually pretty tough to do with gas guns since the leade is typically longer then the maximum OAL, but there is really only one way to know and that's to measure your chamber.

Making sure you aren't jammed into the lands could save your life. Pressures absolutely spike way beyond normal if the bullet doesn't have a tiny jump. I know I know, some loads work well jammed, but considering your pressure problems and the downright terrifying images that you posted, you'll want to make sure this isn't your problem.

Load up a dummy round, no primer, no powder, just brass an bullet and follow the process.
There is a great writeup for that process here: http://weww.snipershide.com/forum/ubbth ... ost1705470

You said in the post above that you have Sierra's 5th and yet you are asking about pressure signs? I am not trying to be rude, but have you read the Reloading Process section starting on page 143?

You asked about the beginning signs of over-pressure so I will give you a few. The best way to quickly identify overpressure is primer flattening and firing pin cratering on the primer. That isn't the be-all end-all, but it is a good start. Also, pay close attention to the headstamp markings on your case. If they go in nice and crisp with deeply engraved letters and numbers, yet come out looking flattened, you have an overpressure situation. If in doubt, take before and after pictures of your cases when firing and compare the two. If you see a noticeable difference in the appearance of the primer, pocket or case head, you have a pressure problem.

Here is a picture of overpressure problems:





Here is a nice list of what to look for.

http://www.shootersforum.com/handloadin ... signs.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
(ScottyG): Yes I have Sierra's 5th Edition. Clearly I need to reread those sections. The next mauser batch will be in .5 gr increments starting 1.5gr below the minium for IMR4350. I already trimmed the casses and they vary between 2.229"-2.2305". Should I clean the barrel inbetween groups? I'm considering switching to a magnum primer because I'm under the assumption they are built stronger and would handle the roughness of the ak stlye firing pin better.
What happened to the shooter with that kaboom?

(Nightstalker): OH I have had an ordeal with that and the M76. I have determined a length with the SMK's that doesn't jam it on the rifling. How far from the lands; i don't know. Thanks for the refernce, I'll use it figure out exactly what it is.
Yes I have, I admit I overlooked a few points, I think a few pics of the fired primers and cratering would have made it more helpful. Your's make it alot more clear, I think the idea of taking before and after pics would help alot. Thanks for the URL's.
 

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Regarding the bullets being too loose after full-length sizing, are you using .318's or .323's?

Lyman's 48th discusses confusion surrounding this cartridge involving both diameters having been used.

I would want to know that my bore, bullets, and dies all were the same. 5 thousandths really is quite a difference, especially as you've been loading max or max++ loads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
They're all .323". They stopped making the .318" bores after the introduction of the Spitzer bullet in 1905.
 

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(MitchAlsun)
M76- Brand new green mountain chrome lined barrel. Seems sturdy, all the parts look new and the only wear marks are the ones that i gave it. Whenever I shoot it; it has a nice harmonic buzz that lasts a second or two. Almost all my load development has been geared toward this rifle.


Yugo M48- My first rifle :) I bought this from Mitchell's Mausers about 5 years ago. It was the grade below mint condition. The bore and barrel are prestine and the rifling is sharp and ungrazed. I refinished the stock a few weeks ago so it wasn't orginally this glossy. Forgive me; i'm young and I like them shiny. From the research that I have done for this rifle. The Yugoslavian M48 Mausers are some of the best and most sturdly built. The M48 was the post WW2, forged from all new parts in Yugoslavia. Unlike the M24/47's which are captured and frankensteined with miss matched parts. But still fine pieces in my opinion.


That last pic took alot of camera and light blocking to work.

My load compilation for the 8mm so far has been (ALL YUGOM76 except where noted)
45gr Varget, 180gr Nosler ETip,Remington Brass and Primers: 2527,2538,2512
The above load wasn't stout enough to fully cycle the action in the M76.
47.5gr Varget- Cartridge OAL was too long for the action to fully close.
48.0gr Varget, 180gr Nosler Etip, RBrass,Rprimer: 2565,2555,2577,2594,2605,2593,2583,2603,2606,2606. Listed in sequence of being fired, and worked reliably.
48.6gr Varget 200gr SMK, remy brass and primers: 2605
49.0gr Varget 200gr SMK rbrass,rprimer: 2579,2579,2586,2581-
This setup worked excelletly.
(YugoM48-bolt action) 50.0gr Varget 200grSMK, rbrass,rprimer, 2647
52gr Varget, 180grNoslerEtip, winchester brass, cci large rifle primers. 2871,2815,2854
base of brass was fine, but the buldgy ring around the case was pretty big.
~49.6gr Varget, 200grSMK, winchester brass, cci primers. No velocity but the above pics should serve well.
I would like to point out that all these velocity numbers were taken with the chrony 10 feet away on a 3 foot tall shotgun trap. I was fireing upright, unsupported, and in an akward semi crouch.

No worries! I don't have any of those lying around. I loaded up 10 round with IMR4350 and started at 48gr which is the starting load in my nosler table.
Thanks guys! I really appreciate your help.
No i don't have a bullet puller :(
Bullet puller worth while investment coz you never know when you will have to pull the last 50 rounds you have made
Been there with a .44 mag and the only problem I had was with the one round without a powder charge
 
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