You need a bullet puller. Inertia will work fine with no damage to Bullets. As long as you know what powder it is you can re use it. Collet bullet puller by hornady is what I typically use.
Reloading 300 Win Mag
Ok, this was my first time reloading. I over loaded the grains by a lot. I made 50 rounds. Can I pull the bullets off and reload them again without losing the bullet or powder? Or is it better to just keep the brass and primers and lose the powder and bullet? As well, how do I pull the bullet?
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Will the powder be wasted with the bullet puller? It’s like a hammer, yes?
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The powder and bullet will be contained in an inertia (hammer) puller. Not hard to salvage them.
You can use an inertia (hammer) puller and reuse all the components . . . even the powder. Though when I used to use one, I had a few granules of powder fly out each time though the small spaces in the collet that held the cartridge. And doing 50 rounds is a lot, IMHO, when using this type of puller. I'd recommend going with the likes of a Hornady Bullet Puller as it's actually easier and faster to use.Ok, this was my first time reloading. I over loaded the grains by a lot. I made 50 rounds. Can I pull the bullets off and reload them again without losing the bullet or powder? Or is it better to just keep the brass and primers and lose the powder and bullet? As well, how do I pull the bullet?
By the way. My COS is 3.340 and my ammo came to 3.442. The difference is the ballistic tip. Will that interfere with the chamber?
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I prefer the Hornady Cam Lock puller. If you chamfer and debur your case mouths well and get a feel for how much pressure you need to pull the caliber you can get away with not marring up the round. The powder stays in the case unlike an inertia hammer. I can never get all the powder out of the inertia style hammer so it'll get mixed some with different powders. To get proper neck tension you'll need to re-size the neck on pulled cases. Keep in mind you'll have a live primer so hopefully you can remove the decapping pin on your sizing die. I've pulled plenty of rounds after doing load development.
SAAMI spec COL is 3.340, but, If your chamber-to-lands(throat) and magazines(if applicable) allow for it, there is no issue loading long. Not sure what rifle you're running but typically factory rifles are cut with a longer throat to accommodate all the factory offerings. Most custom rifle builders minimize the throat to increase accuracy. As an example, my 300WM has a shorter throat to allow me to load Berger VLD bullets closer to mag length and still fit in my AI mags. To get this level of loading precision you'll need to control your seating depth with a micrometer style die and have calipers setup to measure your ogive/COAL.
SAAMI spec COL is 3.340, but, If your chamber-to-lands(throat) and magazines(if applicable) allow for it, there is no issue loading long. Not sure what rifle you're running but typically factory rifles are cut with a longer throat to accommodate all the factory offerings. Most custom rifle builders minimize the throat to increase accuracy. As an example, my 300WM has a shorter throat to allow me to load Berger VLD bullets closer to mag length and still fit in my AI mags. To get this level of loading precision you'll need to control your seating depth with a micrometer style die and have calipers setup to measure your ogive/COAL.
RCBS makes a nice bullet puller, lets you keep the powder, don't think it hurts the bullet to much.Ok, this was my first time reloading. I over loaded the grains by a lot. I made 50 rounds. Can I pull the bullets off and reload them again without losing the bullet or powder? Or is it better to just keep the brass and primers and lose the powder and bullet? As well, how do I pull the bullet?
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Is there a special to load Plastic Tip Bullets?
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