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My Rem 700 VLS has been a straight shooter out of the box. The Accuracy International 1.5 system has definitely aided and the rifle shoots better than I could. The X-Mark Pro trigger that comes with the Rem is a decent work but I noted it took, on my rifle, a lot of 'press'. Having heard a lot about the Rifle Basix triggers (http://www.riflebasix.com) I decided to order one direct.

Called and spoke with Bob, the owner. Nice guy, 'very' helpful and pretty much promised that "he'd be there if I needed help". Good to know.

I bought the L-1 K - adjustable to 1.5 lbs. to 4 lbs. but comes factory adjusted to break at 2.3 lbs. Decently priced at $140. Arrived in two days as promised.


Never have done any smithing on a rifle. Worked a lot on my Glocks. The Glock Armorer's Tool is the only 'punch' you will need or buy a .125 punch (good to have a reemer of the same size or a bit as you "might" - I did NOT - need it).

Set my rifle on the wife's dining room table - injured, on crutches and did not want to set up on my work bench as it was further away. Had my Fat Wrench torque wrench for reseating the chassis/stock, etc... left the scope covered and padded through out.



Receiver and barrel came out easily.


Took photos for my own recollection of EVERYTHING. Didn't want to trust memory on the first time through.

Original trigger sitting ready.


The instructions that come with the 'Rifle Basix' are a bit basic. I followed them as carefully as I could but did deviate at one spot (further down). I removed the original trigger BEING careful NOT to lose the 'bolt stop' spring -

(for Pin removal - be careful of 'bolt stop' and 'spring' - don't lose)

Front pin pushed out - only comes out one way, easy to see when you look at it, from left to right in normal firing position (reverse when upside down)


Once the front was out, took out the rear, keeping track of spring... put the old original trigger in a ziplock baggy for storage.


(X-Mark Pro and Rifle Basix side by side)

Removed the 'white' plastic pin in the front hole of the Rifle Basix trigger, placed it onto the receiver and use "fingers" to push it into hole. NO NEED for press or punch, FINGER pressure is sufficient (IT IS here that some might find the hole munged by Remington's 'pin pressing' - if so, use the reemer previously mentioned or the drill bit to .125 to 'clean up' the hole - don't widen it at all).


(Remove white plastic 'pins', place trigger, put in FRONT PIN)

The front pin is present, the Rifle Basix trigger pivots properly... on the instruction page you will read "Rotate trigger assembly at right angles to receiver and lift top lever out of the way and install top lever re-set spring in “blindâ€
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Notice 2 yrs later parts of the article are missing?

hole in
housing (a straightened out paperclip is helpful here). Leave spring standing
vertically in “blind” hole and carefully rotate top lever to compress spring and
rotate entire assembly into receiver and install rear pin." - THIS just means DON'T
lose the SPRING. I used a straight paper clip as suggested, the 'hole' is a cylindrical
one and the spring slids into it off the paper clip. THEN HOLD IT IN (the spring) with your
right finger, flip the 'Rifle Basix' trigger downward into the receiver and PRESS YOUR
left finger thru the 'chamber' to continue to hold the spring in place as you drop the
Basix into the back HOLE and place the PIN..

NOTE - I had previously "partially" placed the pin so as to hold the 'bolt stop' and
spring in place (who wants to play with three moving parts at once)



The rear pin pushes in with finger pressure. Now the Rifle Basix trigger is
installed into the receiver and you are ready to place the safety and bolt release.

There are NOT really any exacting instructions. I simply compared the old trigger to
the Basix one and saw how it was done. I started by fixing the 'bolt release' to the side
of the trigger with the pin (no pictures of this process) BEING SURE TO PUSH that pin
fully through the trigger so it passes through the 'safety' on the other side. You can
place the detent ball into the chamfered hole, run the safety over it, put the retaining
'bent' plate over it and then PUSH (I do mean push) the "E" clip over the protruding pin
(that is why it is important to PUSH that pin all the way through the 'trigger' - this
is the one pin that has a indent around the end so the E clip will slip onto it and
hold both the 'bolt release' and the 'safety' onto the trigger. Here are the two
photos of this finished product.


(Finished - Left Side)


(Finished - Right side)

I hope this is helpful to some. I am not a 'smith' and don't know if I followed
all smithing protocols in doing this job. The trigger is GREAT. There is NO creep.
It does not bind and the 'press' is fantastic. I called Bob when I was done and
explained how it worked and how happy I was with the difference in 'weight'. He
was happy to chat about the work. This is a very good product. Easily installed
as "I" could do it and, as I've not taken it to the range just yet, "seems" to
make a major difference in trigger weight.

I took it out to the local (Angeles) range and fired 55 rounds. The trigger is superb with absolutely 'no' creep and such a small pressure required to fire that I, in comparison to the stock, hardly felt like I was doing anything. I had another shooter there compare it with his more expensive trigger and he felt the Rifle Basix displayed a better 'feel' and also commented on 'no' creep.

I found the trigger especially nice for holdover rapid fire shooting past 100. We have some steel at the range and practicing hold overs out to 600 is one of our drills. Of course you cannot really measure MOA on steel but the trigger aided the quick 'sight and squeeze' we wanted on the clock.

At 100 yards the improvement was noticeable. But then again 'practice' from shoot to shoot helps. The rifle shoots a 3/4 MOA and I'm getting close. Of some 15 rounds into my 'best', all shots where in the bull and touching except one. The trigger helps me shoot. That is worth the expense. Good change in feel and, I believe, accuracy under slow and rapid fire.
 

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Very nice write-up sir, it should be noted that this process is identical for replacing an X-mark with an "old-style" Remington trigger. Also, keep track of the sear spring that goes in the top of the trigger, I found out the hard way that they're not easily purchased ;)

-matt
 

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very nice write-up! If I decide to ever change out the X-Mark, I shall refer to this. Pics are great.
 

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Should be added that you should always try to slam fire the rifle after installing/adjusting.

Just a caution... dont do trigger jobs or installs for your buddy or buddies friend. There's more liability in installing a trigger than you might think.

The only time I'd tell someone to buy a Jewel, is if they're installing it themselves. Plus I do believe you can get 'em with the safety already on.
 

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Just installed my new old-style R700 trigger. Instructions are great, cheers.
 
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