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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,
I have recently purchased a remington 700 sps tactical and have been searching the forrums but have been discouraged by the volume I have found to filter through. So I decided to try to get some direct answers. I want to make this thing the best it cAn be obviously.

I'm interested in for this firearm.

Stock upgrades and/or modifications?

Trigger ugrades or modifications?

Suggested gunsmithing to the action?

Good scope mounts?
Etc. Etc. Etc. Etc.

Any little modification or suggestion thereof would be greatly appreciated.
I am looking to learn all I can about this rifle and others experiences with it .so I can make the combination of me and it the best possible.
 

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I changed out the stock on mine with a HS precision police sniper stock from Midway for about 280$. I also had the trigger pull adjusted down to 2.5 pounds with the factory trigger. Some people hate the new Remington triggers , I personally like them. I have had no work done to the action and am able to shoot -1" groups at 300 yds with match grade ammo. I am very please with my purchase of this rifle, its a deffinite shooter. Now after saying all that, you can just go out and shoot it as is and have fun with it and upgrade it alittle as you go.

Later.
 

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The SPS Tactical comes with a Hogue stock with aluminum pillar bedding, so it has decent rigidity. You should first shoot the rifle and see how it performs and how you like the stock. If you don't like the feel or sizing, then you can look to upgarde.

Depending on your budget, there are tons of options as you have found out by searching. If you have tons of cash, go for a McMillan or AICS. Few people would argue with those two. I went with a Bell and Carlson Tactical, which I got for around $300. Mostly for the adjustability of the trigger pull length (I am tall and couldn't get situated well with most stocks). The other budget contender is probably H&S Precision.

If your rifle shoots well, then an upgrade you might want to consider would be a detachable magazine. Badger (and I think Seekins?) make some great quality ones. You will have to do some inletting on the stock or find a gunsmith if you are not the DIY type.

For the trigger, you should try out the stock one and see how you like it. There are plenty of posts on how to adjust the trigger (just make sure it passes the safety tests). If you don't like the feel of the trigger, you can have a gunsmith make you a custom shoe or try out the Jewell and Timney replacement triggers.
 

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You can go the cheap route and may be happy with the outcome or spend some $$$ for the best parts.

First off, how are you shooting with your rifle? The reason I ask is because it is easy to go overboard with parts and "tacticool" stuff while not really effectively stretching the potential of your gear. A few members here are claiming accuracies of half an inch @100yards with a bone stock SPS- tactical. In most cases, a rifle that has been trued and looked over by a pertinent gunsmith (and we have several) will be more accurate than one with bolt on feel good parts. This will cost a pretty penny but the results will speak for itself downrange. Either way, be sure to get good glass, this is key.

Personally, I am not a very big fan of detatchable magazines on bolt actions because of my lack of need to shoot over four rounds successively on my rig. Now if you are going to be using this rifle in competition, there may be a need for such. Dont get me wrong, they are good to have if the necessity is there.


Stocks:
inexpensive-Bell and Carlsson $200++
premium-Manners/McMillan $600+++
take-off: HS Precision from 700P under $200

Triggers:
One of the premier builders on this site uses the old style rem trigger. You can always put a Timney or Jewell.


The best part on this site are the members and the search function. There is a wealth of knowledge stored in here somewhere. Just search for the particular part/gear you are looking for and you will have a ton of information on it instantly. Just about every weapon related question has been asked here at least once...and if not, the members are always happy to help out. Welcome to SC!


be safe,

reg
 

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Rem .308

I think you will be happy with your purchase.
I've had the same rifle for about 8 months and have
shot it a lot.

As others have stated, be sure to shoot the gun stock
and see how it does.

Stock, mine was about a 3/4 to 1 moa shooter.
I've added a Bell and Carlson Medalist Tactical stock,
had the stock glass bedded
a Timney trigger set @ 2 1/2 lbs.
a Nightforce 5.5-22x50 scope on a 2 piece mount.

And I've got a 1/2 to 1 moa shooter. I think the rifle is a pretty solid 1/2 moa shooter, but the dope behind the scope tends more towards 1 moa
on average. So, when in doubt buy ammunition, shoot and have fun.
 

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G'day mate, if you want some examples of custom SPS Tacticals, have a look here - http://www.snipercentral.com/forums/vie ... hp?t=24395

Mines in there, the first one, but its a lil different now.

Its a good rifle to build from. Good glass is key.

Have fun and shoot safe.
 

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it is really easy to adjust the triggers that come on those
 

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I bought a savage 10FP but have looked at the police tactical... honestly I almost bought it except I wanted a longer barrel/faster twist.

I don't know how many rifles you have held/shot but to be completely honest I don't think you will find a more comfortable stock than the Hogue one that comes on that gun.

I personally don't like massive palm swells(though I kinda settled on one w/ the savage I bought) but the 700P stock is nowhere near as comfortable as the police tactical has IMHO, too fat of a hand grip. But like everyone said, shoot it and see how you like it.

If you do want to upgrade to an A5 style stock, I'd look into Choate's new A5 stock. I bought it w/ my 10FP as a package from Cabelas... $650 before tax, but you can purchase the stock itself for under $200 from what I have seen. Reason why it is lower price is not a huge brand name and its some sort of polymer/plastic mold instead of fiberglass(comparing it to a McMillan) Feel-wise its about the same, a little bit fatter palm swell and it about 2 lbs heavier than the McMillan, it does come full length aluminum block bedded... I think its more durable than the fiberglass McMillan, my friend has one and he chipped his pulling his bolt out.

Bases/scope rings/scope... its really up to how much you want to spend on it and what kind of distance you will be shooting... I went w/ TPS 20MOA base and the TSR rings... there is a review on here about them. My friend has been running the TPS base on his rifle for about 2 years now and it works great for him, and so far I went shooting twice w/ mine and its good. There rings were very nice as well, fit perfectly, no burrs and no need for lapping them to fit if you follow the install instructions.

I'm running a Falcon Menace 4-14x44 FFP scope, theres a ton of reviews on here about them.

Main thing I would do is get yourself bases/rings/scope and go and shoot, the action/stock stuff you can upgrade as you feel necessary, but the best way to shoot tight groups is to go out and practice.

MIke.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I haven't shot my gun yet. I've only had it about a week and the wife has no clue it exists. So im kinda putting it on the back burner right now entertaining myself by learning all I can about my new hobby. This isn't a whim thing I've been researching this for years starting with the .308 vs 30-06 debate. narrowed down to a remington 700 p. Sebtled for the sps because of availability. Then after leArning about all the resources here on sc, have decided to take it even slower so I don't make many mistakes I.E. The salesman told me .308 is the same as 7.62, after finding on here that they are not I am wondering if the 7.62 ammo I bought will damage/compromise anything. So I have a few more questions.

Obviously the truth of the .308 7.62 and everything else about it in a gun chambered for .308?

Fluting the bolt? Why? Accuracy advantage?

Glass bedding of the stock, i don't exactly understand how this is done and how the glass dosent break when shot.

Any good books to read for everything from ballistics to shooting technique beginning to advanced.
 

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7.62 NATO or 7.62x51 NATO are .308, granted the cartidge is no the exact same size wise but for the most part its interchangable...maybe if you had some precision action you would have to shoot one or the other but my two friend's .308s a savage 10FP and a VTR(w/ 700 action) both shoot .308 and 7.62NATO w/o any issues or accuracy problems... try it out and see if your guns feeds it correctly, I have never heard of anyone having an issue w/ this.

7.62mm is a cartridge/bullet combo built to miltary spec (shell thickness, bullet size/grain, power, FPS)

where as .308 is just a .308 that comes in a variety of grain size/power/etc.

Its basically the same thing as 5.56mm and .223, 5.56mm if I recall correctly is a 77gr. FMJ bullet flying at 3400FPS where as .223 ranges from 47 gr to w/e the biggest ones they offer at a variety of different velocities.

Glassbedding...

If you pull your stock off the rifle you will see where the action contact the stock, it will be a few locations... for accuracy you want your stock/action to be one piece and all fit snug together w/o movement/deflection between them... when you glass bed your stock you basically poor a fiberglass or w/e filler into the stock, and then set your action in this fiberglass, the fiberglass will stick to the stock and the action will create a perfect indent in the fiberglass, this way instead of your action only touching a few locations on the stock it will be a perfect fit/supported everywhere.

MIke.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I still haven't shot my rifle yet. But I will as soon as I get a day of fro
work and I'll post how it goes after I break and zero it in. It'll be Interesting. The only thing I have for glass is a red head scope I got in a hundred dollar scope spotting scope bore sighter. Anyways I'll post...

My main concern about the stock was that in a as is review on my gun it stated that with a bi-pod on the gouge stock it touched the barrel Wichita then made it no longer a free floating barrel and this concerned me. So I was wondering if any of the other stocks elliminated this.

I was also wondering more details on trueing a rifle, what wAs done to it? Who on here could I contact about getting it done or who does it really well? And how much it would cost.

I was also wondering what the ballistic coeficient claSsifications and maybe I'm not calling these the correct things any ways. G1-G7 or links to good reading on this.

And again any book recomendations.

Btw thanks for all the help everyone!
 

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I just need to get the safety issue pointed out here: 5.56 is not .223 AND .308 is not 7.62 so use the correct ammunition. This link explains it well. http://guncentral.net/Articles/SAAMIvsNATO.html
I know a post will follow saying it is the same, but it is not. Saving a few dollars on ammunition is not worth a trip to the hospital to have action shards removed from your skull, or worse, a friend or your kids.
I now step off the soapbox......
 

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The cartridge sizes are different and there may be a difference in pressure. There is a difference in thickness of the brass as well (which may be related to pressure). Most of the time it works out OK. Definitely DO NOT reload a 7.62 round in your .308 reloader as I have read that it will only resize the neck and the rest of the cartridge can deform (and most likely will).

At any rate, you will be hard pressed to find 7.62 ammo that shoots accurately in your .308 chambered rifle. Whether or not it blows up in your face, it is most likely an exercise in futility.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thanks for the info on the 7.62 it came just in time for my shoot today, just shows that asking a question pays off, i hope to return the favor soon. after shooting today i see much room for needed improvement and hope to be able to get some books soon to help with my newbie technique. thanks again for everyones posts.

and now i have another question. it has to do with scope mounting. the rear screw on the front mount was inhibiting the bolt from closing all the way so the fireing pin would fire but no explosion wich was probably good or i could have a broken cheek bone or nose. i didnt know this was even the case till i took the scope and mounts off and tried it before i took it back to the store or blacksmith to have it looked at. so systematically as i put the scope back on i tested it after each screw and found the culprit. so i need some pointers on what to do cause i went ahead and shot without that front rear screw and at 25 yards i never hit paper enought to be able to make a correction in 40 shots. i hit dirt in every direction and tried to adjust windage for this but at left and up maxed out, still no one bullet hit close to the other for a consisten shot to justify change or to know how much was needed.

i was shooting winchester super x 150 gr, off a concrete bench rest using a jacket as a soft rest. i still should have hit paper in some consistent fasion and i couldnt so im assuming that it was because i couldnt tighten down the scope. ive used this scope before and know it can be zeroed. its a red head 2-9x40 i believe. i know that useing a shorter screw would probably be the obvious soloution but i would be worried that it would be to short to tighten. just wondering if anyone else has had this issue. the scope mounts and screws are leupold 1" for remington 700 so i dont quite understand why i am having this problem.
 

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I have a 700sps "Tactical" in the following config:

1) McMillan A5 - $650
2) Seekins 20MOA base $90
3) Leupold Mk4 rings(had them already)
4) Badger bolt-know install $60
5) Harris bipod w/pod-lok $120
6) SWFA SS 10X optic $300 (still saving for my US Optic dream scope : )
7) Eagle stock pack & TIS sling $85 approx.

...so it can add up fast. But so far she's a real shooter. If I had it to do again though, I might look to buy a quality "custom" rifle already set-up and ready to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
i did the math on your upgrades excluding the price of the scope rings cause they werent posted and put in a supposed 600 for the gun as is out of the box and i got $1905 so i can see where your coming from at just buying a customized already put together rifle. but from the sound of things i bet you have a pretty good shooter, i think ill take a page out of this book and be carefull how i upgrade, learn my basics and hone my skills and save for a better rifle that has all the ugrades already. like a tac ops or something.

my next question is what calibur is good for pushing past 1000 yards, as i have read that the 308 is unpredictable past 800m. what are your guys experiences.
 

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curtisj said:
Stock, mine was about a 3/4 to 1 moa shooter.
I've added a Bell and Carlson Medalist Tactical stock,
had the stock glass bedded
a Timney trigger set @ 2 1/2 lbs.
a Nightforce 5.5-22x50 scope on a 2 piece mount.
In my humble opinion this fellow did it properly. He shot his gun to find out where his starting point was, he got a decent stock, not the best but decent and he bedded it, he got a decent trigger, not the best but decent and he boought GREAT optics. I was thinking that this is what I'd suggest when I read his pot. Short of sending it to me to have it bluprinted and a custom barrel put on it this is the way to do it.

The screws for the rear of the scope base are longer than the ones from the front if I remember correctly so make sure you have the right screws in the ight holes. If I wasn't so lazy I'd walk out to the shop to verify, but check that.

The 7.62x51 and the .308W cartridges have identical external dimensions, however the chamber drawings are different and the maximum PSI in the .308 Winchester is much higher than that of the 7.62 NATO. So you can shoot 7.62 NATO in the .308 but not the other way around. This is my opinion only and if you try it and it doesn't work don't sue me as professionally I only recommend that you only shoot the cartridge caliber that is designated on the side of your barrel.
 

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Greetings,
First time poster and instead of starting a new thread I found this one which is fairly relevant to my question....Hope some of you are still around after 7 years! For the last 2 years I have been building a tactical shooting platform (as time & money allow, not always at the same time though) from a Rem 700 SPS with 20" tube 1:10... I have restocked with a Bell & Carlson A5, a Timney triger, Badger style bottom metal and some decent Vortex glass. I have 52 rounds through it so far, all factory Nosler MG 168 gr hpbt. I have been able to achieve .75 moa @ 100 yes a few times but more times than not, there is a "flyer" 1"+ from a 2 shot touching group.... getting ready to build some hand loads and see where it takes me and I discovered an interesting issue that maybe other, more experienced shooters can provide some advice on. I measured the OAL of the gun with a Hornady gauge and it came out as 2.939"! I repeated this process several times with same results. Even with backing it off by .040" from the lands, that would put the cartridge at 2.899" OAL, still .098" longer than any recommended loading data I have read. I then measured the factory loads and they were at 2.784" OAL.....that would mean the factory loads had a jump of .155" before engaging the lands. Everything I have read says that is too big a jump. Am I correct in this thinking and I need to take the gun to a gun doc to get worked on?
 

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Yup, Remington is known for long throats.

Curious is it a sps with a thin barrel? Or heavy barrel?

While it is a long jump, it may not be what's causing it.

Order a box of Federal Gold Medal Match in 168 or 175 grain Sierra Match Kings.

This is generally considered to be the best factory match 308 out there.

Also check to make sure your barrel is free floated, some Bell and Carlson stocks are off center and touch the barrel.

Check it exactly how you shoot it if possible.
 

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What bullet are you going to hand loading with? A heavier bullet will also be longer.

Welcome to the world of lawyer proof Remington chambers.
 
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