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3 main things to look at. If the rifle has a factory synthetic stock it will probably need replaced, the action must fit tight into the stock without flex and a free floated barrel that does not touch the stock is best for consistent accuracy. Boyds makes some nice laminate stocks for many different rifles at a decent price. Next item would be the trigger it is very hard to shoot accurately with a 6 pound creepy trigger, just shoot a browning BLR rifle and you'll see what I mean. Timney aftermarket triggers run a little over $100. 3rd is the Ammo definitely consider reloading so you can find shoots best in your rifle. Powder charge weight and bullet seating depth can greatly affect accuracy, once you find what your rifle likes with a good stock and trigger you should shoot 1/2" groups all day long if you do your part.
 

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Get your bed glassed and your barrel floated and drop your trigger to the lowest safe pull wt. The Rem 700 has a very nice stock trigger that is easily adjusted. Otherwise you might want to look into a match trigger. Most manufacturer synthetic stocks are not the best. I suggest you get a high quality aftermarket stock. I have B&C synthetic stocks on mine. The triggers on both of my Rem 700's are set at 2.5 lbs.
 

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The best thing you can do for accuracy is to carefully and thoroughly burn out the first barrel...


1st) Buy 500 rounds of practice ammunition.
2nd) Fire two rounds and stop. Save the 2 casings.
3rd) Either use your own tooling, or find a friend with .300 dies, and use them to create 2 matching dry-fire rounds. Clean, size, and seat a bullet at mag length. Glue into the primer pocket an eraser off a wooden pencil. Once the glue is dry, use a razor blade to cut the rubber off flush with the head of the case. Finally, drill 3 small holes around the web of the casings and deburr with sandpaper; this is to clearly denote from all angles that these two are DUMMY rounds. Done.

4) Evaluate the trigger as it comes from the factory...possibly consider replacing with A) Arnold Jewell HVR set at 2-3 pounds, or (B) "improved remington" design aftermarket trigger like Timney. Choose option A if this is a rifle that will not see use in freezing conditions, if it will, consider one of the option "B" 2-lever designs.

5) With cleaned-up factory, or aftermarket trigger reinstalled, use said dummy rounds to dry fire 20-50 "live" shots a night, from several shooting positions. Consider doing this in a darkened and quiet room for several weeks until you start to learn the new trigger. Afterwards, put a pushpin or similar size object on the wall about 30 feet away and start using the rifle to "shoot" the pin. NO LIVE AMMUNITION in the room at ANY time.

After a month or so of dry firing seriously, you should be nearing 1,000 "shots" on the rifle, and you'll be getting the hang of the new trigger; also, it's sear surfaces should start to become a little more smooth, and mated to one another.

6) Now, start thinking about going to the range and shooting 1 dry-fire "round" followed by 1 live round for 40 "shots" per session. Do this practice from all positions allowed at your range, and don't start shooting for "groups" or anything silly like that just yet. We're on baby steps with the new rifle still. .300 ammo is not cheap, and barrels don't last long, so we really are trying to keep live fire down to about 20-25% of your practice time.

Try to get to the range once per week minimum for these live fire sessions, and keep dry firing at home all the while. 'Happiness is a worn-out snap cap...' or something along those lines.

7) After 6 months or so of live fire, you'll be nearly out of ammo, and you'll have a good pile of brass saved up, all the same brand and lot...since all the 500 rounds you bought were the same. (hint) Your trigger should be near 7,500 cycles and smooth as silk, the bolt should be gettin' really slick, and barrel will be halfway cooked, but nicely conditioned for you to start learning to reload the cartridge.

8 ) Buy handloading gear, and learn how to use it, and how to listen to what your rifle is telling you in so doing. This is a thread in it's own, or more. Search.

9) After you reload all those cases once, and fire them again, you'll be about 1,000 rounds in, and hopefully near 15,000 total cycles on your action and trigger. You will KNOW the rifle, KNOW the cartridge...and the barrel will be dead--or nearly dead--in your arms. Feel free to cry a little about it, then call Krieger, and your favorite riflesmith and get on their books. If you have the forethought and $$ to do so, get a barrel ordered at about the 500 round mark, when you start reloading...then it will be ready for you to send to your smith when the factory tube dies; and make no mistake, with the .300, it will die...sure as taxes, and as funny as a heart attack, only more quickly than either.

10) At this point, let your riflesmith disassemble and evaluate the action. He/she will almost undoubtedly single-point remachine the threads, face the action, face the bolt, recut the rear lug surfaces, possibly retime extracton cam, possibly bush the firing pin (suggest this if you've had trouble with cratering on your primers), possibly ream the raceway and bush the bolt, possibly install a better extractor like a Sako...the list goes on. Take a look at Greg Tannel's (Gre-Tan) Info pages, and at Mike Roscoe's (Lousiana Precision) Truing Pages to get an idea of what CAN be done with a Remchester.

Replace the mainspring in the action at this point. You're 15,000 cycles and a barrel into the deal...she's tired, and ready for the recycle pile.

Evaluate other stock options, if they might suit your shooting style and purposes better. If needed, have your smith pillar and glass the rifle into a new stock, or do the same on the factory stock.

If the trigger's in good repair...don't mess with a good thing. You should bestest friends by now, so don't screw up a good relationship with fingers in the wrong places.

11) With said trued action, and a now-premium barrel and chamber, resume carefully reloading to learn the new barrel SLOWLY.

Proceed burning out barrels and casings and jugs of powder at will until you decide you're tired of this, or until there are no more elk to kill. Follow something similar to this prescribed routine, and you AND you rifle will be capable of that kind of performance.


It's not about just one "best thing" to make the rifle shoot better. It's about continually pushing up the boundary of performance ALL across the board. It's about you and the rifle's journey together to become a system.

-Nate
 
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