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Thanks a lot, I tryed it out on my first BB I got when I was 15, and Im glad I did, I juat messed around to see what would happen, and I think it turned out pretty pk, what do you all think?
 

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I’d always wanted to try my hand at doing my own paint-job. Since I picked up a Savage 10 FP (and put it in a custom stock), I had the cheesy old Savage stock lying around doing nothing. The Savage stock is a hellish piece that required LOTS of sanding to remove the “mold linesâ€
 

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here is mine done in "grassland" or "marsh" camo. It is done by wrapping the gun in nylon string between colors, leaving the previous layer in place as you progress through the different paints. It blends in well in tree areas too, not real great out on the granite & prairie around here though. It will be resprayed in my own "3-color alpine desert" gap pattern once I have some smithing work done on it this summer. The optics have been camoed since the pics, but when I get the gun complete, it will probably wear a flat dark earth leupold... or a green USO if I win the lottery...


 

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ogre said:
Wow! Good job Slick!
Thanks! and another BIG "Thanks" to everyone who's shared photos and tips on how to get good results.

I can honestly say were it not for all the folks that pitch in and share, I wouldn't have tried this and it most certainly would not have turned out as well. Now I need to try using the "string" method - as I really like the "vertical" grass-striping camo. :D
 

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knowing now how it turned out (my first string camo job), I would use a ton more strings on the brown coat and the light green color (can't really see it, but there is a sage green color there too).

I'm tempted to paint it again, but i'd rather save my paint for the GAP on the manners stock when I rebuild the gun.
 

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bcw1284 said:
here is mine done in "grassland" or "marsh" camo. It is done by wrapping the gun in nylon string between colors, leaving the previous layer in place as you progress through the different paints. It blends in well in tree areas too, not real great out on the granite & prairie around here though. It will be resprayed in my own "3-color alpine desert" gap pattern once I have some smithing work done on it this summer. The optics have been camoed since the pics, but when I get the gun complete, it will probably wear a flat dark earth leupold... or a green USO if I win the lottery...


An OD Green Burris XTR or Tac 30 may look good too, and be cheaper than the Leupy. Just a thought.
 

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It won't look like that once re-barreled, all metal is to be coated FDE/tan. The stock will be 3-color "alpine desert GAP", so it will actually look like wyoming terrain (I hope). I'm thinking the FDE leupy will be a close match, and I can use the m2 knobs with .30-06 BDC that way. 1/4 moa click would suffice, but I would kill for the 1/2 moa when I'm out trying to pop prarie dogs & yotes at long distance.

I still think the string camo is cool, I might do it with more earth tones on my scout mosin. That one will probably wear a painted or color anodized scope. The mosin stripper clips are basically worthless in my gun anyway, I might as well use a real scope & real mount.

The "alpine GAP" I am doing my self and is a mix of earths and greens, not using black like many desert gaps i have seen. nothing wrong with it, I just don't like black in my camo. I may bump it up to 4 colors, but I'm thinking I may "overspray" dust it with the dark brown to dull the tans out a bit and make it more "earthy". we shall see, it won't be done till I get the rifle redone. I will post many, many pics once I paint it... scouts honor :lol:
 

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I was wondering because I dont trust myself to sand the metal componets of the rifle would Krylon sandable primer work well and adhere to metal and what type of krylon would I use for the actual camo itself?
 

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I just painted right over mine, but it was not smooth finished metal. If yours is smooth, i'd just give it a good scuffing with a scotch brite pad, wipe it down with solvent, and go for it with the base coat. The Krylon is super adhesive, but a good primer couldn't hurt. Just use really light coats, primer fills very quickly, as it's meant to fill in scuffs.
 

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Cool thanks! :D

But what kind of Krylon do I use for the actual camo itself (I noticed they have about 30 different types of paint, which confused me a little.)
 

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Well, you all inspired me to finally paint mine. I just did the metal and left the stock, scope, and bipod all black. I used Krylon Camo paint.
 

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Just finished painting my 243 again. I think I need a little more of light color on the right side but it's ok for now. I love the paint job on Hypno's LOSOK 700. I really like the look with netting used as a stencil. I plan to paint my WSM tommarow. Here's a couple pics. The colors are darker than they appear (I used the flash on the camera). I used an airbrush.



 

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another krylon paint job, my 223. the pictures don't do it justice, it came out really neat, almost 3-D. I don't want to set it down, I might never find it again:







 

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Just say you paint your rifle and you dont like, or you want a different coler. Can you repaint your rifle?
 

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Discussion Starter #39
marine3000 said:
Just say you paint your rifle and you dont like, or you want a different coler. Can you repaint your rifle?
No problem. Just paint over it, or devote a few hours and a can of acetone to your existing paint job!


dom
 

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I finally got around to painting my rifle this weekend. I went with a basic Krylon Camo flat black all over. I had a few rust spots on the barrel and just wanted to freshen up the whole rifle. I ran into a bit of a problem tho. I taped off the bolt lugs but painted the rest of the bolt. Obviously I used too much paint because now the bolt sticks when sliding either way. If I dont want a shiney bolt on a black rifle, whats the best way to do that without the sticking? I just want a nice even flat finish all over.

Alabama Wulf
 
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