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On my Savage I have a Badger picannty rail and Badger rings. The ST-10 slid back and forth (not within the rings, but the rings within the rail). I used a socket wrench to torque the rings tighter onto the rail.

With the USO rings I was told to finger-tighten the rings, and then use the L wrench to tighten no more than 1/4 of a turn. It too is loose but I haven't adjusted the rings to the base yet. Is it possible to torque down the rings to the base excessively, and is it apparent if I'm doing so?

Scatch Maroo
 

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I usually tighten my optics down as much as I can on the bases and the rings.
 

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In the Army, we tighten the rings to the base (mk4 rings and bases) to 65 in/lbs.

But with my own rifles, I tend to do as muzzle does and tighten them to about as tight as I can make them. The US Army system worked great for removing the scope and putting it back on with very minimal shift of zero. We simply had a socket head for our T-handle torque wrenches that fit the Mk4 rings.

You should not have a problem with over tightening, especially with BO

MEL
 

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Good to know I wasn't messing things up :lol:

The stuff that came with the mounts to install them sounds good, with what we talked about last night, Scatch. Make sure you have a good tool if you tighten things as tightly as you can, since a slip as you are turning can mar the screws up pretty well.

I find if there is any slack on a screw at all though, it just works itself looser and looser as time goes on. That extra 1/4 turn can help.
 

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65 inch pounds for rings to base.
15 inch pounds for top ring screws.
 

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Thanks Phil :)

For those of us who don't have a torque wrench, or are using the tool which was included with the scope mount and rings themselves, how would 65 inch pounds and 15 inch pounds equate? Would that be near as tight as it can be tightened?
 

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sh*t......i just get them as tight as they get (quick hunting style) never use nikon mounts---u'll be lucky for 8" groups at 100 yds


dom
 
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