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re

Going to do a similar thing for the SC3?
 

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I noticed you added pillar bedding to the options. Can you elaborate a little on this? Is this in addition to the glass bedding you do? How much will it add to the accuracy?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Re: re

Yimmy said:
Going to do a similar thing for the SC3?
Yes, I am working on similar sheets for both the SC2 & SC3

I noticed you added pillar bedding to the options. Can you elaborate a little on this? Is this in addition to the glass bedding you do? How much will it add to the accuracy?
I use McMillan pillars and this is in addition to the normal glass bedding. How much will it add to the accuracy? Well, honestly, not enough to really measure. It probably helps a little, but its very difficult to benchmark. Glass bedding is the big helper, pillars is just another minor step up.

MEL
 

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I just checked out the revised pricing sheet, looking good.

In fact, looking better than good: the SC1 can now be had with a stainless action to go with an optional stainless barrel? :D I am VERY happy about that.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yep, it is an option.

Keep your eyes peeled, there will be some changes to the options for the metal finish work. We are having a change of philosphy due to some recent developments.

And I do plan to have those SC2 and SC3 sheets up soon also.

MEL
 

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mele said:
Keep your eyes peeled, there will be some changes to the options for the metal finish work. We are having a change of philosphy due to some recent developments.
Can you tell us anything about this Mel?
 

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Who do you refer to when you say "we" Mel, I was under the impression you worked on the rifles on your own, or do you now have resources to expand and take on extra staff?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Two questions to answer:

In terms of the finish, we are finding out that most of the bake on finishes "suggest" parkerizing as an undercoat... well, based on our experiences, this is a requirement, not a suggestion. I have had really bad luck with duracoat if just applying to a sandblasted metal finish even when following their exact application procedures. Now, when the stuff is put on over parkerizing, it truly is everything they claim, the problem is that they says bead blasting is optional, parkerizing is optional, but yet if you do not do parkerizing, it flakes and scratches very easily. The same is true for gun-kote. Epoxy powdercoating is too thick. So, we are leaning heavily on going back to teflon, which has always done well, but teflon itself is just not the most durable, but at least it bonds and doesn't flake, just nicks if you rough treat it. We will offer Green-T and Black-T as options for $180 and added build time. We are also planning to try some bake on laquer which is suppose to bond to anything and resist chipping, but only a test will tell. Laquer is not good for internals, so we'll still do teflon bolts if we go that route.

Now, in terms of the "we" reference. You are not the first to ask, and the reason I have been using it lately is because I like to dream big and play like I'm a real company :wink: Technically, my wife and I run the business and I also have another person (brother in law) who helps with metal work and metal finish. He is a fantastic craftsman and probably does better work than me on the stuff he does, so he has been a great help. Anyway, its been a habit to say we, I suppose I should be a bit more careful!

MEL

edited for clearer discription of the "we"
 

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Sorry if I hit a nerve - was just enquiring. :?
 

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Meh, sounds like all is well to me.

Mel, if he has your endorsement, I wouldn't mind him working on a rifle I was paying for, any day.
 

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Heh, sorry Yimmy and others, I just re read that and see where a mis-interpretation may have happened. I was not bothered by the question (you are not the first to ask it). I was actually just giving you the answer, let me re word it so others do not think I was upset by the question.

Also, in terms of the finish, one might ask "well, why not just parkerize and then apply the finish". That is no problem, but because of the equipment and man hours to do so, I would have to add about $100 per rifle to do that.... I'm still attempting to keep the rifles at their current price point, and teflon does the trick. (or maybe this laquer)

MEL
 

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I'll throw my vote in for going with the Teflon again since it worked well on your rifles in the past; thanks for the update!
 

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Thanks Bead.

Nothing goes on as smooth as teflon, that stuff is "slick". (Pun intended). It does really spray on very nice, I like it.

MEL
 

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guess this kinda ties into my thread about the coating on my SC3. So is Duracoat out completely w/o the parkerizing mel? Is it not a good choice if the metal is not parkerized. I only want to coat is once, and want to do it right. :)
 

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Mel, what would be the added cost to parkerize before you apply the Duracoat? This thread came out right on time for me!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
In my honest opinion, I would not use duracoat without parkerizing IF you only wanted to do it once. The nice thing about duracoat is that its very easy to touch up, no baking required.

The added cost to parkerize before duracoat would be $150. Not exactly cheap, I know :( The last hope I have is with the bake on laquer, we'll see on that soon.

MEL
 

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any new info on the price list for the SC2 and SC3? also, may i suggest putting a link to the price sheets under the "SC Series Rifles" link on the top of the page rather than searching the forums for it?

Thanks,

Brian
 
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