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I have a Savage model 10 fcp-sr in 6.5 creedmoor. It came from the factory with a 20 moa egw rail. I put a Leupold Rifleman 3-9x50 in Tps low rings on it. When I went to zero it in I started at 25 yards and the first show was about 15-18 inches low. As we tried to turn the crosshairs down to the spot of impact I ran out of vertical adjustment. After the adjustment I shot a second time and it was still about 6-8 inches low. I have done some research and reading on the 20 moa rail and everything that I have found says that it should be hitting high and not low. I researched the scope I have and the website says that the rifleman scope that I have should have 56 moa of adjustment, when I calculated the amount of adjustment I got 64 moa so I set the mechanical zero on the scope to it and tried re-zeroing but had the same issue again. I am completely confused on what is wrong and what I need to do to get it zeroed. Any information and advise will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 

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The scope has a total of 56moa of adjustment. If zeroed dead center mechanical on the scope, that would leave you with 28moa left to dial up. It is NOT outside of reason that due to where your bore is pointed, how your mounting is setup, or how your rings are setup, that you simply would need more than 8moa of forgiveness. I'd bet the scope doesn't actually have 56 total available either. ... so the bottom line is you probably can not use a 20moa rail with the optic you've chosen.

Also, at 25yds, you will be eating more of it up due to the mechanical offset of your optic. If you move out to 100yds, you may be able to get on... or at least have a better chance of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That makes sense and I was thinking kind of along those lines as well, that the scope might not have enough internal adjustment. Thank you for your help and advise.
 

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25 yds isn't going to give you back much credible information. At that distance the round really hasn't started to behave it self yet. Zeroing at 100 meters is pretty much the gold standard. I would recommend zeroing there then try to place some groups to see how they are holding.
 

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Even if you have the full 56 MOA adjustment in your scope, at 25 yards you'd only have 1/4 of that as a 1/4 MOA click at 100 yards becomes 1/16 MOA at 25 yards. If, as Orkan points out, you only have 28 MOA available, that translates to only 7 inches adjustment. The height of your rings will also have an effect on how much adjustment range you have.

I have a 20 MOA base on my Savage 10 FCP-K in .308. I bore sight on a moss spot on a tree behind my house that's about 35 yards away. My Vortex Viper with 65 MOA adjusted OK but was pretty far down. When I shot it at 100 yards for initial sighting in, I was only off the mark by a very little. A few clicks and I was centered. As rr03 suggests, try zeroing at 100 yards before you attempt anything else.
 

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Even if you have the full 56 MOA adjustment in your scope, at 25 yards you'd only have 1/4 of that as a 1/4 MOA click at 100 yards becomes 1/16 MOA at 25 yards. If, as Orkan points out, you only have 28 MOA available, that translates to only 7 inches adjustment. The height of your rings will also have an effect on how much adjustment range you have.
The amount of adjustment doesn't change with the distance your shooting at a 56 moa scope is going to have 56 moa of adjustment at 10 yards or 1000 yards. It doesn't change.

If you didn't bed the base pull it off and make sure it's properly bedded. I have yet to find a base that fits the rifle perfectly.
 

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Even if you have the full 56 MOA adjustment in your scope, at 25 yards you'd only have 1/4 of that as a 1/4 MOA click at 100 yards becomes 1/16 MOA at 25 yards. If, as Orkan points out, you only have 28 MOA available, that translates to only 7 inches adjustment. The height of your rings will also have an effect on how much adjustment range you have.

I have a 20 MOA base on my Savage 10 FCP-K in .308. I bore sight on a moss spot on a tree behind my house that's about 35 yards away. My Vortex Viper with 65 MOA adjusted OK but was pretty far down. When I shot it at 100 yards for initial sighting in, I was only off the mark by a very little. A few clicks and I was centered. As rr03 suggests, try zeroing at 100 yards before you attempt anything else.
Umm... no. Just as tim said, moa is moa. mil is mil. The distance aspect of it only changes how much LINEAR space a click covers. The angular units are, well, angular units and they don't change into 1/16moa without swapping turrets out.

When I give a complete and concise answer, people really don't need to come in behind and try to confuse people... do they?
 

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Umm... no. Just as tim said, moa is moa. mil is mil. The distance aspect of it only changes how much LINEAR space a click covers. The angular units are, well, angular units and they don't change into 1/16moa without swapping turrets out.

When I give a complete and concise answer, people really don't need to come in behind and try to confuse people... do they?
Let me say it another way that can perhaps be more easily understood.

IF one click moves the POI 1/4 inch at 100 yards, that same click will only move POI 1/16 inch at 25 yards.
 

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at 25 yards you'd only have 1/4 of that as a 1/4 MOA click at 100 yards becomes 1/16 MOA at 25 yards.
What you said before was NOT correct.

IF one click moves the POI 1/4 inch at 100 yards, that same click will only move POI 1/16 inch at 25 yards.
What you just said is correct.

Your first statement was incorrect. Simple. Yet as tim already pointed out, what you are saying (even the correct version) is completely irrelevant to the OP's problem. MOA is MOA... and that's the only aspect that matters. Distance to target is literally the only linear measurement we care about when dealing with rifle scopes. (aside from mechanical offset and the like)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
UPDATE: I pulled the scope off and measured the rings and they were both the same, I did however swap them around just to see if that made a difference. I went out today (6-24-17) and shot again. After swaping the rings I ran into the same problem again. I took a coke can and cut some shims out to put under the rear of the scope to see if that would help. I ended up having to put 5 shims between (under the scope body) scope body and rear ring and 5 between (on top of the scope body) scope body and front ring. By doing this I was able to get enough vertical adjustment to get the rifle zeroed at 100 yards.

With all this being said I believe that I need to change rails to a 20 MOA cant or maybe even higher, and then continue to save up and then get another scope with more internal adjustment for longer ranges.

Any other suggestions and advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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Have you checked the base that you have now? If not take it off and check it to make sure it's straight across the top if so then put it back on but only the front screws check to see of there is any gap between the rear and thr reciever, if not do the same to check the front.

If there is a gap between the rear of the rail and the reciever when you torque ot down you get a reverse cant, and to me that sounds like what has happened it's a easy fix all you have to do a bead the base.
 
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