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Discussion Starter #1
This is a very interesting project that has challenged me in a variety of ways. The rifle in question started life as a Turk K Kale action, with a 29 inch barrel.

I regret not taking pics as it arrived, but I will post pis of another just like to show what it looked like. The rifle had a very thick stock, that was brand new with no finish on it. The stock was not even fully inletted as the bolt stop would not move. With all the hype on scout/guide guns recently, and some hints from a certain unnamed SC member I set to work.

The barrel on this rifle only so so, but I had another take off that appeared brand new, so I decided on 20inches for a good length. I cut the barrel to length, and recrowned in a lathe. I should mention that the front and rear sights/bases were removed prior to the lathe work, and reinstalled later. The sights are silver soldered on and require heating to remove and install.

Next I blasted the barrel and parts in my blast cabinet. I then set to work on the action. I trued it completely just as in the sniper project, but it took many more attempts toget the lugs and bolt face square than the yugos did. I also removed the ringextension found on turks, I could have done this in a lathe too, but I did it by hand with a file. I took my time here, and got a good square face on the verified by repeated die testing with a known square face on a lap. Next I drilled and tapped the action (front ring only) for a weaver mount for the eotech holographis sight(more to come later on this). I then treaded the barrel in and checked headspace, it passed with no adjustment needed.

The stock shown in the pics is the original cut down, and reshaped to fit the new barrel dimension. I will cover the stock work in another post, but here are some pics.

Turk Mauser exactly same as this one.


barrel cut down to 20inches



Mauser stock cut down and reshaped, bolt disassembly ring out, and cross bolt out.


Action and barrel assembled and blasted


Same as above with the stock, with some decoration added, but still drying, stock has no oil or stain on it yet


stock with barreled action in it prior to final shaping and blasting.

more to come.
 

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As always, Mlammers makes those Mausers walk and talk. That's a great looking build, and it sure doesn't look like the "same" rifle anymore.

Thanks, and good post!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That's for sure, that barrel is pristine, mirror bright, and the chamber did not have any wear in the finish, so it should be a shooter. My goal for it is MOA at 100yds.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here are is a pic of the bedding, I did not want you to think I was not working on this one, but I have slowed some, as I am getting the M14 and Muaser Sniper going for school. Expect a post on the 14 later today.





The fornt is epoxy bedded out to about the 1.5 inch point in the barrel, the rear is pillar bedded.
 

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Outstanding work, Mark. I was wondering how that steel bed stuff would look after I saw some in my Brownell's catalogue and we talked about it. Just for curiousity, to prepare for a bedding job with that, or Acraglas, how much wood do you need to remove?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Muzz,

On a setup like the turk used here, the only area that required wood removal was the outside rails, and barrel channel. In this stock the action was resting on the recoil lug(front edge only, and only one side), and the rear pillar, so mostly I was building up in this case. I remounted and alligned the recoil lug to fit as close to level and square as could be done due to limitations caused by the previously drilled holes. I then removed the bolt ends to allow further adjustment, and built the lug into the stock using steel reinforced(steel bed type) epoxy. All open areas around and under the lug were filled(turk stocks have a large gap between the wood shoulder and the steel lug as they were designed to be inlet for many sizes of mauser) and all inletting imperfections(there were many since it was designed to sit on the lug)were filled to within 1/16th or so of the top of the lug.

I then let that all set up for at least 24hrs. After the intial mods all set up, I bedded as usual taking off at least 1/16th of wood in all areas that needed it, and roughing up with coarse emry cloth all areas that epoxy would contact in the final bedding. I was not happy with the original bedding in this final step, as it had too many voids(the steel bed is very stiff and thick) so, I ground and chiseled it out, and bedded again until it was right. I ended up using marine epoxy in the sides and receiver bottom areas, as a skin bed over the steel bed to get a smoother finish. The structural areas on the lug etc are all steel bedded, and the whole job was finished in Alumahyde epoxy top coat(parkerizing grey) to give a nice uniform coloration next to the parkerized metal. I am very happy with the end product.

The keys to bedding these things are lots of release agent on the metal, rough stock surface to allow the epoxy to grab, and at least 1/16th inch of room for epoxy.
 

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Thanks for the detailed reply, that's all the info I could need....1/16 of an inch really isn't much room either, it's good to know. Do you think for a plastic stock, if I attacked it with steel wool to make the plastic roughed up, the bedding would grab it?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sandpaper might work better, and you can even drill a few very shallow depressions in the stock with a small bit to really let it grab the plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just so no one thinks I stopped working on this rifle, here is an update. I went to work on it again yesterday. I forged the straight bolt handle to a swept and scope friendly handle, and polishe dout the whole thing. I parkerized the bolt hardware, and some other small parts. A couple weeks ago, I installed the full length rail for the holosight. Just a qhick touch up blasting now, and park the whole thing and it will be done. The front sight will be installed after the parking, it is a standard remington 700 front sight, that works well with the mauser rear. Let me know what you think. Oops for got to add that I modified the stock and fitted the recoil pad.

 

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That is outstanding!

The rowdiest little carbine I have ever seen yet.

Rock on, Mark.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Muzz, that means a lot I hope she show them Canadian animals what an 8mm can do.
 

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It will, I am sure of it. And as soon as it starts knocking them down, I will start putting up the pics. It's going to be a bad year for moose, bear and whitetail in these hills.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Its all parked up, I will post pics later today.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just back from the range, and now I have to clean the Mauser, since I used Milsurp ammo today. All went well, took me a while to get used to the cheek weld, and figure out the best postition on the rifle for me. After I did though, what a sweet little gun. The thump from this baby on full power military loads was tremendous, but with the recoil pad it was not bad at all to shoot. I would love to shoot it at night, the muzzle flash would be huge. That 20 inch barrel got some looks at the range. This rifle shot sub MOA on milsurp ammo I can not believe that either since the barrel was a turk as well, I guess mausers just shoot very very well. I will post pics for the rifle and a group later.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well I went to get the camera, and the wife has it she is at a parade, so I will put the pics up in the morning, but the group measures .9MOA. Not bad for milsurp ammo. I was frustrated at first, as I would get two good shots and a flyer, but I finally adjusted my grip and cheek weld, and she really settled down.
 

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Sub MOA with mystery Milsurp....OUTSTANDING!

Can't wait to see what it can do with handloads or some good old Norma.

Great work, Mlammers!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Here are pics of the rifle, I still need to add some hardware on the stock around the coins, and the scope mounted right now is the Bushy 3200 10X. Also there is a pic of the last 3 shot group, and the one of the others I mentioned, where I had two good ones and a flyer. Not match groups, but still very good for a 60+ year old used barrel and same vintage milsurp ammo.







 
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