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Well thank you Rigger for all the information. And the weekend project is finally complete.

The Marlin 880SQ .22 LR

 

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Discussion Starter #62
Your welcome Sir, I'm glad I could help. :D Nice job too.

Rigger
 

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Rigger or Wargone

I have textured my stock and now sprayed it with alumahyde OD green.
I want to spray the texturing black. My question is how long should I leave the od green to dry before I tape around the texturing and spray it black.

Many thanks for your help and great tutorial Rigger.

Mac
 

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First question, Why is your texturing not already black? I did not paint mine, That is the color of the Marine-Tex.

Also I would probably paint my texturing before painting the stock. IMO the tape would less be less likely to remove paint from the texturing due to the uneven surfaces, but still give you the covrage of the texturing.

Where as painting the stock first then taping back over the stock to paint the texturing could cause IMO a chance of removing paint from the stock itself. Due to a very good surface grip the stock would offer. Being flat and offering the tape adhesive more "stick".

I myself did the texturing process first. Let dry over night. Taped off the texturing then painted the stock.
 

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No problem. The only marine tex i could get was white. You did bring up a good point.
"Where as painting the stock first then taping back over the stock to paint the texturing could cause IMO a chance of removing paint from the stock itself. Due to a very good surface grip the stock would offer. Being flat and offering the tape adhesive more "stick".


I never thought of that. I might have to go with really low tac tape.

Thanks for your help.

Mac
 

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stock texture

hey, just wondering if one of you guys could tell me ,if you think a person could use steel wool to raise the epoxy. thanks.
 

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Re: stock texture

muley260 said:
hey, just wondering if one of you guys could tell me ,if you think a person could use steel wool to raise the epoxy. thanks.
I doubt it, steel wool will most likely just break apart and get stuck in the resin.

Rigger
 

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I used Bondos "Fiberglass Jelly" to add texture instead of Marine Tex. I could not find marine tex, and thought it would work just as good, time will tell I guess.

Instead of using a plastic bag I tapped the applied product with a putty knife and it worked good. The texture is deeper and thicker in places... I am basing this off the pictures I have seen in the pages prior to how mine turned out. To get it thicker i added more product and bounced the putty knife more, or less until it got the depth I wanted... it actually worked out kind of neat because in places I made its grip directional as well.

Unfortunately I am at work and the pictures of my project are at home so I hope to add them tomorrow.

I actually tried it on two different stock and in different styles. One with the whole stock being covered, and the second, just around primary grip areas. I did the whole stock to give it some added texture/depth when I paint the stock with the digital pattern later. This was an extra stock I just upgraded from, so it is more of a test project than anything.[/url]
 

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"PC7" as an alternative "Texture" medium

Gents,

Thanks for the inspiration! I have been playing with various epoxy formulations, thickeners, additives, etc. in my woodworking business and am thought I would share how I textured a Ram-Line Polyethylene Marlin Lever action stock.

First I taped off the area on the forearm and butt stock I wanted textured like so



After it was taped off, I used this dremel tool to give the epoxy a little "Tooth", polyethylene is very hard to achieve a hard permanent bond to. West Brothers Epoxy has released a new formulation, "G-FLex", it is designed to bond to just about anything, to include oily tropical hardwoods heretofore practically unable to be glued by ANYTHING. This stuff is awesome.

I mixed a "Skim Coat" of colored G-Flex to give the PC7 a nice sticky base. Here is a pic for you



Here it is with the dyed (1 drop of black) G-Flex base coat



I have used Marine Tex in the past, it is a good product, there is a hardware store alternative "PC7", cheaper and as you will see works just as good. It is thick enough that your little "Peaks" wont fall down on you when you pull them up! Here is what you want to buy, its even grey/black in color;



Here is a photo of it as applied, the trick is let it dry for a bit until you can pull a peak up with a popsicle stick or little layout tool.



To add even more texture and give some "interest" to the pattern I sprinkled a small amount of sand blasting media into the mixture when it was still tacky



This is the little layout tool I used to pull the "peaks" up. When it starts to stiffen up you will want to use a rubber glove or plastic bag to lightly , very lightly, smooth the whole mess down. I then use a popsicle stick or a little metal scraper to further define my pattern



I carefully do this after I have pulled the tape, be careful with it, you can easily smear your epoxy putty outside the lines.



Here is the buttstock I had done the night before, I lightly sanded the pattern to knock down the high spots, it feels GREAT and is really a very nice grip. I could not be more pleased with how it turned out!



Here is the paint I like to use, it is "Textured" but very lightly, not like the stone or wrinkle paint, is has proven to be very durable on my Marlin 45-70 Guide Gun







Thanks to everyone who helped me get "Inspired" to improve my grip! Best regards.

Jerry
 

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Hey guys, is Marine-Tex a 2 part product(hardener + paste)? or 1 part(mixed already)?


From the pics it looks like it's already mixed together but I want to verify.

Also, how hard is it to work with? I purchased the PC-7 and you have to do a 1:1 ratio of the hardener and paste but it's very thick and just a pain to spread around.


Does marine-tex apply easier? as more of a 'gel' type?
 

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mr.rhtuner said:
Hey guys, is Marine-Tex a 2 part product(hardener + paste)? or 1 part(mixed already)?

Hey Tuner, "Marine-Tex" is indeed a two part product, similar in composition to the ole PC-7, it is an epoxy based compound like PC-7 with a "Catalyst" required to initiate the exothermic process of hardening.


From the pics it looks like it's already mixed together but I want to verify.

None of it comes "Pre-Mixed", as a note; You cant mix any of this stuff "Too Well", most "Failures" of epoxy based products can be traced to two or three things, improper ratios, too cold to cure properly and failure to mix thoroughly!

Also, how hard is it to work with? I purchased the PC-7 and you have to do a 1:1 ratio of the hardener and paste but it's very thick and just a pain to spread around.

Yep, that's the nature of the stuff so it does not "Slump", Here is a tip for you: Sneak your wifes hair dryer out to the garage and warm up the individual components (Parts A & B) separately, then mix thoroughly. You will find that warming it up a bit will make it much easier to work with. Keep in mind that warming it up will speed up the "Cure" process and give you slightly less working time (Should not be a problem in any circumstances other than the most warm of climates and workshop environments.).


Does marine-tex apply easier? as more of a 'gel' type?
It is darned near the same consistency, maybe the Marine-Tex is a little smoother but the difference for our purposes here is negligible. You can thicken the mixture with colloidial silica, chopped fiberglass fibers, micro-balloons, powdered graphite, talcum power, baby power, powdered aluminum, etc.. It wont affect the cure, merely the consistency and machineability of the cured product. EG: Powdered Aluminum will be much harder to sand in the cured epoxy than the talcum powder or wood flour will. Check out the "West Epoxy" site for many good tips on working with epoxy. Marine-Tex, PC-7, etc. are merely thickened epoxy compositions and all rules for working with "Regular" epoxy apply. You can even thicken standard epoxy resin and hardeners with various additives and create your very own version of bedding compounds such as "Devcon, PC-7, Marine-Tex" etc.

Hope this helps you. I am by no means a "Texturing" expert but I have quite a bit of fiberglass experience which helps me out in this instance.


Here is a great link to "User guides"
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/use-guides/



Spending over $40.00 for a little box of Marine Tex is IMHO a waste of money, you will learn more and have far more flexibility with your texturing job by buying a good epoxy resin and adding fillers appropriate for the texture you desire. I used the PC-7 because I did not have time to drive to Boat US to buy some more resin and fillers, no longer an issue.


Best regards,

Jerry
 

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Alternative product

Has anyone tried spray on bed liner like Line X or Rhino Liner on a polymer stock?

I have seen so many uses for it in the automotive world and it is flexible and sticks to everything.

I might have to practice on my Remington plastics after I get a decent stock for my 700.
 

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theloss52 said:
A few of the mods you all did just look painful to shoot?

That is horrible...is that a question or statement.?


The texture is more comfortable.
 

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Re: Alternative product

rustygray said:
Has anyone tried spray on bed liner like Line X or Rhino Liner on a polymer stock?
I tried using a spray on bedliner in a can on one of my practice stocks and was not surprised with the result. It was too thin, and grainy. I am now wondering about using the actual roll on type in a can but at this point, I might have to try the PC-7 and get it over with. This certainly has turned out to be one of the best threads in this section.


reg
 
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