Well thank you Rigger for all the information. And the weekend project is finally complete.
The Marlin 880SQ .22 LR
The Marlin 880SQ .22 LR
I doubt it, steel wool will most likely just break apart and get stuck in the resin.muley260 said:hey, just wondering if one of you guys could tell me ,if you think a person could use steel wool to raise the epoxy. thanks.
It is darned near the same consistency, maybe the Marine-Tex is a little smoother but the difference for our purposes here is negligible. You can thicken the mixture with colloidial silica, chopped fiberglass fibers, micro-balloons, powdered graphite, talcum power, baby power, powdered aluminum, etc.. It wont affect the cure, merely the consistency and machineability of the cured product. EG: Powdered Aluminum will be much harder to sand in the cured epoxy than the talcum powder or wood flour will. Check out the "West Epoxy" site for many good tips on working with epoxy. Marine-Tex, PC-7, etc. are merely thickened epoxy compositions and all rules for working with "Regular" epoxy apply. You can even thicken standard epoxy resin and hardeners with various additives and create your very own version of bedding compounds such as "Devcon, PC-7, Marine-Tex" etc.mr.rhtuner said:Hey guys, is Marine-Tex a 2 part product(hardener + paste)? or 1 part(mixed already)?
Hey Tuner, "Marine-Tex" is indeed a two part product, similar in composition to the ole PC-7, it is an epoxy based compound like PC-7 with a "Catalyst" required to initiate the exothermic process of hardening.
From the pics it looks like it's already mixed together but I want to verify.
None of it comes "Pre-Mixed", as a note; You cant mix any of this stuff "Too Well", most "Failures" of epoxy based products can be traced to two or three things, improper ratios, too cold to cure properly and failure to mix thoroughly!
Also, how hard is it to work with? I purchased the PC-7 and you have to do a 1:1 ratio of the hardener and paste but it's very thick and just a pain to spread around.
Yep, that's the nature of the stuff so it does not "Slump", Here is a tip for you: Sneak your wifes hair dryer out to the garage and warm up the individual components (Parts A & B) separately, then mix thoroughly. You will find that warming it up a bit will make it much easier to work with. Keep in mind that warming it up will speed up the "Cure" process and give you slightly less working time (Should not be a problem in any circumstances other than the most warm of climates and workshop environments.).
Does marine-tex apply easier? as more of a 'gel' type?
I tried using a spray on bedliner in a can on one of my practice stocks and was not surprised with the result. It was too thin, and grainy. I am now wondering about using the actual roll on type in a can but at this point, I might have to try the PC-7 and get it over with. This certainly has turned out to be one of the best threads in this section.rustygray said:Has anyone tried spray on bed liner like Line X or Rhino Liner on a polymer stock?