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Outstanding information NavyRigger!!

I just completed my texture/paint scheme on my Rem 700 and it came out Beautiful... if I do say so myself. I will work on getting some pics added in the next couple days. I just signed on as a member today and am figuring this forum thing out. I just wanted to say thanks for posting the pics and info. Sierra 1 out....
 

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Yes, no, maybe?

Has anyone tried to use this to incorporate finger grooves in the grip? Something like once the stuff gets tacky enough grabbing the grip like you are ready to fire and squeeze your fingers into it? Im really new to texturing and am just asking newbie questions. :)

Alabama Wulf
 

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My Rem 700


This is the rifle with all the texture completed...

Close-up of the grip portion

Completed rifle

Close-up of the completed rifle.
My thanks again to Navy Rigger and others for their ideas and great detailed instructions!!
 

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Cheek Weld

That is EXACTLY what that "growth" is.... a cheek weld. I get a better, more consistant in-line cheek weld each time I hook up. It looked horrible when I first completed it, but after paint...Dynamite! It shoots like a dream. I have never been more comfortable behind a rifle... I need that 'cuz sometimes I might be there a while....
 

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Texture material

I was wondering what if any of the texture epoxy resin you can get at walmart? That is about the only place I have close to me to get stuff. There are a couple auto supply shacks but non have marine tex. What are the other viable options to use?
 

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Expoxy material

I used PC-7 (2 parts A & B). I bought it at the local Ace harware. It comes in small cans and works very similar to Marine Tex. I am not sure if Wal-Mart carries either one. Since you have internet, search Ace hardware and buy some online. Good luck.
 

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mr.rhtuner said:
theloss52 said:
A few of the mods you all did just look painful to shoot?

That is horrible...is that a question or statement.?


The texture is more comfortable.
Looks back at this I was not trying to be offensive, although it sure looks like I was. Some of the texture jobs I have seen look painful though :lol: . ust a few look to poky for my taste.

Good job though guys, they look good!
 

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theloss52 said:
Looks back at this I was not trying to be offensive, although it sure looks like I was. Some of the texture jobs I have seen look painful though :lol: . ust a few look to poky for my taste.

Good job though guys, they look good!

Oh I know your not offending anybody with that comment, I just wrote 'it's horrible' for the statement your wrote as if it was a question or statement haha

all good man :D
 

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Ok, well, I followed this DIY on my practice stock last week. I can honestly say that I really expected the texturing to be... thicker. :/ I only had access to Marine Tex in white so I bought some black coloring agent. I mixed the agent and the putty for the skim coat and barely made enough to cover the area I had taped off. After a few days, the tex was still oily feeling. Not bad like dripping, but it left a residue on my fingers. So, I shrugged, mixed the rest of the tex and color and finished the process. Again, I barely had enough to cover everything I wanted texturized. And it wasnt really much, just the grip and forend. Once that set for about 45 minutes, I used the ziplock trick to pull the texture before pulling the tape off. The next evening, it was totally dry to the touch but some of my texturing had flattened out. I didnt have to do any sanding on the forend because nothing there stayed pointy. It has a decent texture, but it didnt add much thickness at all. Same with the grip. I got better texture there, but it added no thickness.

To make a short story long, what could I have done differently to add more thickness to the tex and to make it more textured. It didnt turn out bad, and I will use it on my hunting rifle (practice stock), but Im not satisfied enough in the result to do it to my 700P yet.

Ideas, suggestions?
 

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Hey Bloodwolf,

I'll be posting some pics of my texture job over the weekend. So check back. I am extremely happy with the way my job turned out. I too used MarineTex white, although I did NOT add any pigment to the mix. It has been painted, so I did not need the pigment. One of the cautions I read about was to be careful of adding too much pigment...I think not more than 5%...and it was recommended to use an epoxy pigment from one of MarineTex's product lines to ensure compatability. I'm not sure how critical it is to do that...it's just what I read about on Marinetex's website. My mixture was nice and thick, and it added a very nice amount of material to both grip areas to work with. I did one skim coat, and then the top coat....just like this DIY states, and that worked out well. I did NOT use a plastic bag to pull up the Marinetex. I ran a sample alongside my actual work so I could tell when the Tex was "ripe" for texturing. The bag just wasn't giving the desired results....I used a couple of plastic forks to pull and swirl the Marinetex just when the sample was nice and stiff. I realized that the application does not need to look finished at all. In fact, a heavy textured surface, after pulling the Marintex up will look pretty rough. It then turns out beautiful when you sand it down. I used a 120 grit sandpaper wrapped around a 1x2 length of wood to sand the peaks down. This helped ensure that the texture turned out nice and even and feel great to the touch. I'll post pics on this thread later today or tomorrow. Hey...if your texture isn't thick enough...rough up your surface and apply another coat...
 

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here are come more pics of another successfull texture thanks to Rigger

i taped it up then drew on one side the design i wanted, made a stecil and repeated it on the other.

I would sugest making the skim coat very thin unless you want it to look bulgy. I wanted mine to look similar to that of a McMillan


texture it untill it looks almost too agressive

i painted mine with alumihide from brownells to make it look more factory
and ty it all together i think it turned out great

Again thanx to Rigger for a great write up.
 

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So it became time for me to have a go at texturing stocks, its the stock for my .300 whisper project.

I will mount flush mounted swivel studs for rifle sling before I do the foreend of the stock.

 

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warriorways said:
navyrigger46 said:
Oh yeah, that's lookin really good, is that Acrglass?

Rigger
It sure is. Man the ziplock bag was great. It took all of 2 minutes to get my results. I have a new found respect for ziplock :lol: .
Do you use the "loc" part of the bag, or the bag itself crinkled up?
 

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iflyaaord said:
warriorways said:
navyrigger46 said:
Oh yeah, that's lookin really good, is that Acrglass?

Rigger
It sure is. Man the ziplock bag was great. It took all of 2 minutes to get my results. I have a new found respect for ziplock :lol: .
Do you use the "loc" part of the bag, or the bag itself crinkled up?
No real reason to crush the bag. I do, but it ends up pulling away from your hand. I tend to use the corner of the sandwich baggy. If I do use a zip lock bag I cut off the lock.

There's a bunch of tricks when messing with Marine-Tex, it's all in the timing.
 

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great looking texture jobs. was i seeing things or are people using the pc7 for bedding jobs too? just curious. im looking to do both bedding & texturing, may as well use the same thing.

from some of the questions i think people may think the bag just puts texture in the stuff, but it gets sticky and pulls up the little peaks you see. someone was asking if the bag was crunched up or if the loc part was used. have you ever put plastic wrap or tin foil on a cake and had it stick to the frosting as you pull it away? its more like that.
 
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