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Dirty cans can cause groups to open as well as cause "cold bore" shift. Otherwise they tend to improve both precision and accuracy if properly maintained.
 

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Dirty cans can cause groups to open as well as cause "cold bore" shift. Otherwise they tend to improve both precision and accuracy if properly maintained.
Looking to buy my first. Many of the centerfire cans cannot be disassembled .... are they to be avoided? How can they be cleaned?
 

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Dirty cans can cause groups to open as well as cause "cold bore" shift. Otherwise they tend to improve both precision and accuracy if properly maintained.
Just found out my ATF form was approved late last month. If I recall correctly, a TB 338 Ultra is over 10 inches. Ballpark what kind of round count with a 6.5 CM should we be looking to clean the can. Haven't gotten a vibratory cleaner yet. Was looking at the one you have. Will it fit in there and is rice a good medium for cleaning cans?
 

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Don’t clean a suppressor in rice. You will never get it all back out of there.

Dip the suppressor in CLR for a day or two then rinse it. Repeat until the clr comes out clean. If you have an ultra sonic you can alternate between clr and the ultrasonic.

Don’t use clr on aluminum suppressors...but titanium is fine.

They should be cleaned about every 1500 rounds in my opinion. Thing is...accuracy doesn’t usually drop off till after that, but by the time accuracy drops off the suppressor is so clogged up with trash that it takes a forever to clean it.

Thunderbeast will clean the suppressor for you once a year for the cost of shipping...but they had one of mine for about 6 weeks last time I did that.
 

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DDD

I got my first can and using it on a 6.5CM and .308 win. Recoil seems different with a can. It's taking a little getting used to. It's like a push pull.
 

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Yes. Recoil with a suppressor is much different. It is significantly less violent and seems to me to be more spread out as well. I shot without the suppressor the other day and am thankful that I could screw it back on after a few shots.
 

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Yes. Recoil with a suppressor is much different. It is significantly less violent and seems to me to be more spread out as well. I shot without the suppressor the other day and am thankful that I could screw it back on after a few shots.
Don't get me wrong, I like the quiet but the recoil is weird. It's kinda bugging me. I'm not giving up on the can, but my groups are smaller without it. I know it's me. I've got get some more 140's for my 6.5 cause I'm almost out and get more trigger time with the can..

How many rounds did it take for you to get used to the can?
 

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For me the suppressor was immediately a welcomed change. The recoil while different is more manageable.

Now...have you considered that you just added a 1 lb weight to the end of your barrel? As having done such you have changed the resonance of the barrel and your "node" has likely changed. I would start fresh and work up a new load based on the Primal Rights "load development" article.
 

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For me the suppressor was immediately a welcomed change. The recoil while different is more manageable.

Now...have you considered that you just added a 1 lb weight to the end of your barrel? As having done such you have changed the resonance of the barrel and your "node" has likely changed. I would start fresh and work up a new load based on the Primal Rights "load development" article.
yeah I was thinking about that. I got a Thunder Beast based on Greg's recommendation. He indicated that TB worked the best based on his experience with the least influence on POI if I recall correctly. I did my initial load development with 6.5CM Hornady brass, I just got an order of 500 6.5 Peterson brass so I do need to do another load development. I guess I'll do it with the can on. I was at the range yesterday and I was wondering how I was going to mount the Magnetospeed bayonet on the can after I do the load development on the Peterson brass..
 

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Magnetospeed v3 will mount just fine to the suppressor. It is made for it. Magnetospeed sporter...not so much.

However...do your load development and then attach the Magnetospeed. don't do load development with the magnetospeed hanging on the barrel as it will again change things.
 

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He indicated that TB worked the best based on his experience with the least influence on POI if I recall correctly.
POI shift when attaching a can has nothing to do with precision. Two entirely different things. If you shoot suppressed, you work your load suppressed... just as dddoo7 said.
 

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POI shift when attaching a can has nothing to do with precision. Two entirely different things. If you shoot suppressed, you work your load suppressed... just as dddoo7 said.
Thx that is my plan.

DDD I planned on doing the load development without the bayonet attached. After I settle on the charge weight I wanted to get the speed for my ballistics ap. I didn't know if the spacers provided would allow the bayonet would get it where it needed to be for a good read. I saw a guy with an attachment to his lower pic rail on his chassis that allowed him not mount the bayonet to the barrel. I was just wondering if one of those was in my future. I watched him fire at the range yesterday. It would take a few seconds for the bayonet to stop shaking after each shot.
 

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I have seen those but don’t have one. The V3 will have no problems strapping onto the suppressor itself. I have done it that way many times.
 

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I've been looking at the Dead Air Sandman S recently. The manual says:

"The 7.62 Sandman “S” and “L” series models are ruggedly constructed and machined from Stellite® and hardened stainless steel."

And

"Soaking the suppressor in any solvent for an extended period my harm the Cerakote finish of your suppressor and is unnecessary as center fire suppressors do not require such cleaning procedures."

And

"Disassembly of your suppressor is not generally required or recommended. Taking your suppressor apart for its own sake may result in compromised performance, baffle strikes, and/or lost parts. Your suppressor was assembled at the factory by trained technicians to certain technical specfications and settings. Random disassembly of the unit may result in a voiding of your suppressor’s express warranties."

If other suppressor manufacturers are offering to clean centerfire suppressors, though, then I have to consider the possibility that it may require cleaning eventually. Does CLR affect Cerakote?
 

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if properly maintained.
Since the bulk of this thread was active there seems to be some conflicting information regarding Can maintenance. I've heard that you just shoot with them. No cleaning except for the threads that the can attaches to the rifle with. What is the common consensus here? I've read that you can soak in CLR if you have a titanium can but not if it is Cero coated (sorry for spelling) some have stated that don't soak titanium because of some sort of chemical reaction.
 

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I was told that I didn’t need to do anything to my thunderbeast suppressor. Just shoot it...they said. It doesn’t need to be cleaned for the first 50,000 rounds.

They were wrong. Apparently “they” didn’t shoot enough to know. At about 4000 rounds, my titanium suppressor had gained several ounces and groups opened up substantially. Once cleaned, the barrel retuned to shooting as it should.

I cleaned by alternating two things. I soaked in a mixture of peroxide/vinegar for a couple of days. Then I rinsed it out. Then soaked it in CLR for a few days. Then Rinsed it out. I repeated both of these three or four times each and was still dumping chunks of junk out each time. The suppressor was getting closer to the beginning weight, but still wasn’t there, so I finally called thunderbeast and sent it to them for cleaning.

They soak in the same above solutions (or did at the time) only they soaked in an ultrasonic cleaner. Then they used an attachment that screws the suppressor onto a pressure washer to blast all of the junk out. They returned the can squeaky clean.

As far as coating goes, Cerakote can handle the chemical dip (at least in the above chemicals) It cannot handle the ULTRASONIC chemical dip. However getting a suppressor coated is not a huge expense and is worth it if necessary to get the thing clean. Contact me If you need to know where to get your suppressor Coated.
 
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