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The day may come when you may have to load ammo in defiance of the law.

Recently I became aware of a chap in a far off land who wishes to covertly load ammo for his .308. The day may come in this country where it may become necessary to load ammo in defiance of the law.

Mr. Secret Handloader can get his hands on 8mm ball ammo. Now this 8mm Mauser uses a medium speed powder that is compatable with the .308. I know this to be so because this ammo is loaded for a certain gas operated weapon. Knowing this weapon, I know that the powder has to have a burn rate somewhere between IMR-3031 and IMR-4895.

It is also possible to create .308 brass from 8mm cases.

Here is what he ought to do:

1. He should pull the 8mm bullet from the case using an inertial bullet puller. Once the bullet is seperated from the case, he should save the powder.

2. Then he should run the 8mm case through a .308 sizing die. This will set the 8mm shoulder back to where it should be for a .308. The .308 Winchester is 7mm shorter than the 8mm Mauser so the reformed case will have to be trimmed.

3. Using a case trimmer, the case is then trimmed by 7mm. The reformed case is then deburred with a chamfering tool

4. The powder from the 8mm load can be used in the .308. But there are a few warnings to consider. The .308 has a smaller case and a smaller bore. Pressure will build up faster. But on the other hand, the 8mm Mauser and .308 use powders of the same burning rate.

5. A 180 grain 8mm Mauser load will use approxiamately a 12% greater charge than a .308 load using the same powder and a 165 grain bullet.
Reduce the charge by about 15% and use this as your starting load with the 165 grain bullet.

6. For the 150 grain bullet, the .308 charge is about 10% less than a full house 8mm 180 grain load.

7. Load the proper charge into the new case and seat the bullet. Consult the earlier handloading threads for additional information if necessary.

8. Our friend can also form .308 brass from .30-06, .270, .280, .243, 7mm Mauser, and any other .474" diameter case.

The Lee Handpress will also be an invaluable aid to the secret home handloader.


Mad.
 

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madgunsmith said:
The Lee Handpress will also be an invaluable aid to the secret home handloader.

Mad.
Darn it, Mad! Stop making me think! That there's brilliant, by the way.

John
 

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Outstanding

Outstanding write up mad. Making 308 brass out of 8x57 :shock: Thanks for sharing man.

Slip
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here are a few things that I forgot to mention:

If you are sizing a primed 8mm case, make sure to remove the decapping stem from your sizing die. And if this 8mm brass is berdan primed, you will not want to try resizing it with the decapping stem in place. To do so will cause damage to the die.

Before sizing the 8mm case, make sure that you lube the case. If you cannot find proper reloading lubricant, look for some anhydrous lanolin. This stuff is made from sheep's wool. Sometimes you can find this stuff at chemical supply house or even at old-fashioned drug stores. Mix some anhydrous lanolin with a little alcohol and you can make your own spray lubricant.

If you cannot find anhydrous lanolin, look for a product called STP. This stuff is an American made oil additive. It is available anywhere oil is sold. I have seen STP with my own eyes for sale in Europe, Asia and Africa. So very likely you can find some in your area.

You only want to use a very little STP. Put a little on a rag and lightly wipe down your cases prior to sizing. Do not get any STP near your primers, You can kill them if STP gets in contact with them.

You might want to experiment with other lubricants. Transmission fluid may work. I have not tried this, but I have tried anhydrous lanolin and STP. These two both work.

If your cases are not properly lubricated, they can get stuck inside your die and this will put you out of business. So always, always, make sure that you cases are lightly lubricated.


Mad.
 
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Depending on the die design, you may have to do the majority of your trimming before driving the shoulder back with the die.
 

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A couple of comments:

Shortening 8x57 to 7.62x51 will most likely leave the new neck awfully thick... could boost pressures a bunch. Perhaps you may need to outside neck turn or inside neck ream. I think that turning would be a better idea , just to check that the neck thickness is uniform.

Check my math- the .308 is only 6mm shorter than an 8x57, right?

Just messin' with you. If I read many more post like this one, I just mght dive into the wonderful world of wildcatting!

(Let's see. What could I make out of a .375 Ruger case?)
 

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You can also use "mink oil" (sold in the shoe polish section) at your local shoe store as a case lubricant. I think it works as good as Imperial die wax.
 

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Very good article ... which I hope never to need to actually use!

I'm keeping several hundred rounds and/or components for same on hand for each battle-capable weapon. Should I need more than that, I should be seizing ammo from the occupying force. Red Dawn?

Though ... if I were already a subject of a government that did not respect the right to self-defense and its means, I would probably give this a try.
 

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Wonderful tips!

I had a great M-48 Mauser that was lost and have about 60 brass for that chamber. Had been thinking about getting another Mauser, but after reading this post, I may just form some more .308 brass instead! Thanks for the info!
 

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It is not unreasonable to put aside (stash) a set of dies, cheap reloader, primers, powder and bullets for the caliber you most rely upon for defense. This assumes that you were also paraanoid enough to put aside a rifle in the same caliber. Not saying that I am but its food for thought.
 
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