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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I have a Tikka .308 and considering about muzzle brake. Can anyone tell me which type of muzzle brake is better if not the same. I was looking into a muzzle brake that would be drilled onto the barrel so that it's permanent and nothing is added on rather than being installed in such as screwed onto the barrel. Is there a difference in these two types of brakes? if so, which is better or worse or same?
 

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A muzzle brake on a .308 is kinda... useless. You'd probably be better off adding another recoil pad for 10 dollars, rather than spending a silly amount of cash getting your barrel worked on to install the thing. But, whatever. It's your gun.
 

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Yeah, I'd have to agree with CM2k on this one, because if a aftermarket muzzle break is done even the slightest bit incorrectly, it could screw over your rifle and permantly deplete accuracy. But if it is done well, and you still want it, I would venture to guess that either of those ways of installation would be good, with one being neither better nor worse.
 

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i agree with both CM2K and Jake S
a recoil pad would be cheaper and i think they reduce the felt recoil by about 50%
you just dont need a muzzle brake on a .308
 

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As being someone that has muzzlebrakes on a 25-06, 7mm rem mag and a 300 rem ultra mag I would suggest going with the kind that screws on the end. That way if you decide you dont like it you have 2 options. you can take the gun back in and have the end of the barrel trimmed down and only lose 1/2 - 3/4 inch of your barrel or get a new barrel. If you drill directly into the barrel then decide you dont like it you have 2 options. Lose about 1 1/2 - 2 inches of your barrel or get a new barrel. The only reason my 25 has a brake on it is because my girlfriend will enjoy it and I have 2 little boys in the family that will be able to shoot it. But I would have to agree with the others here. it's a 308, it doesnt kick that bad. Just my 2 cents though. Good luck with your decision.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the advices guys. I don't think I'll go with the brakes it costs little too much to spend it and realize at the end that I didn't really need it.
 

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good idea
if you want to reduce recoil the recoil pad can help you for a lot less money they claim to reduce the recoil by about 50% not sure how this compares to a muzzle brake in recoil reduction but 50% of a .308s kick isnt going to be much and its a lot less than a muzzle brake and a new barrel or running the risk of your barrel's accuracy being killed
and wont make your gun as loud as it would with the muzzle brake heh
 

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.300wm

I have a .300wm and it kicks quite a bit as most of you that have ever shot a .300 wm know. Its a savage 110fp. If/when I decide to put a brake on it, what would be the best choice? The OPS Inc brake looks like an excellent choice but I have no experience with them. Any other good options?

Chris
 

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Just hijacking this thread as i dont want to start another on the subject of muzzle breaks, but..

I have a Tikka T3 Tacticle in .300WM, comes with threaded barrel, and i recently brought a Sako muzzle break for it, now the rifle still shoots as straight as it used to, but at 100m it shoots 1 inch low with it on, compared to with it off, at 300m is shoots 2 clicks low, with it on (i'm guessing that 2 clicks is about 1.5 inches, but that doesnt seem right somehow) but then at 500m it shoots exactly the same as without the break on, anyone know if this is normal? is the muzzle break changing the POI but not reducing the muzzle velocity, or have i stuffed up something like humidity, barrell temp or something because a result like that just isnt possible?
 

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Put a can on that .308 that way you won't get laughed at the range if you put a brake on it. I'll admit I wouldn't mind a brake on my .308 but the cost it pretty high. However if I was gonna spend money I would put a can on it. Then you get to shoot w/ no earplugs and reduce recoil.
 

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Let them laugh, I don't care...lol Mine is in the shop getting one put on as we speak, just too much muzzle jump for me and it weighs about 10 pounds. I'd rather spend $200 to get a KDF put on it rather than $1000+ for a can.
 

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Hello all I had a Vais muzzlebreak put on my 10fp .308 and i love it much easier to stay on targert and see your hits while varmint hunting because of the reduced muzzle jump i think the money spent was well worth it and if you get it and dont like it just have your smith make a threaded cover for the threads and sell the break to someone else.
 

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Hello all I had a Vais muzzlebreak put on my 10fp .308 and i love it much easier to stay on targert and see your hits while varmint hunting because of the reduced muzzle jump i think the money spent was well worth it and if you get it and dont like it just have your smith make a threaded cover for the threads and sell the break to someone else.
 

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Hey Guys,
I really like the look of these, and the reported performance rocks, as well...

Their S1's works of art...
Pick the right brake
Respectfully,
Harry
 

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I have been eyeing one of s1's breaks for a while haerd they work excellent
 
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