Well you could always give the rifle to your wife if its to much for you lol

Okay thats out of the way now.

A brake is going to be the most effective on reducing recoil. You can do something as simple as a Wyatt bolt on to try it without prementally modifying your rifle. Or go full into it and get a brake machined on by a smith. I'm also guessing you still have the factory stock, so a new stock or chassis will also help.

 

Well, a thick Decelerator pad helps, as will a functional muzzle brake. I see many praising the JP tank brake for it's functionality. If it is the ADL Varmint, the heavy barrel will help a little bit too What are you planning to do with your rifle for the most part? If you reload and only will be shooting intermediate ranges, you can seek out a minimum charge accuracy node that will reduce recoil as well. (I have worked up a load like this for my daughter using 168 gr SMK's and imr 4064).

 

I have an aics and it lowered the recoil drastically. You could always add weight to the stock. Most are hollow under the butt pad. A suppressor (silencer) also reduces recoil.

 

I'll be short and to the point any one of these will reduce recoil, all of them together will make that .308 fell like a .223 or less. Or you can buy a 6 or 6.5mm barrel and have it put on.

1. clamp on muzzle brake Clamp On Muzzle Brake Clamp-On Muzzle Brake [MB1] - $89.00 : Witt Machine (moderate install)

2. rear bag, this one works well, Triad Tactical, Inc. :: Triad Tactical :: Triad Tapered Rear Bag (easy)

3. heavy stock or chassis system (moderate/difficult install)

4. heavy f class style bipod http://www.brownells.com/shooting-a...ods-amp-accessories/bipods/sinclair-3rd-generation-f-class-bipod-prod44699.aspx


~Ben

 

I'm looking at an aics ax chassis. And the Jp brake.

And norcalfocus if I had a dollar for every time I heard almost exactly that lol. The admin if one of the fb sites I'm on told me to stick some of my tampons between my shoulder and my rifle. friggin prick lol

 

The admin if one of the fb sites I'm on told me to stick some of my tampons between my shoulder and my rifle. friggin prick lol

TAMPONS :lol::lol::lol:
I cant wait to use that one. I may even toss a couple in my range bag waiting for a buddy to complain !

 

I run a mcree's chassis and a precision armament muzzle break with that being said recoil is not an issue but again it is a little over 14 pounds

 

I know what your saying. Now I'm pushing 70 and I shoot from a table now, because the body is screwed up. I shoot a Rem 700 P with scope from a table. Weapon is over 13 lbs and it's a 300 Win Mag.This is what I run on my rifle.

 

Going to an AICS chassis and adding a Badger FTE mini took a large amount of recoil out of my Rem 5R. Made it much easier on the shoulder and more enjoyable overall.

 

A brake helps. Adding weight helps too. Both will be required to get where you're going.

My suggestion would be to send it to TS Customs for a new barrel chambered in 6.5CM that resembles a truck axle, add a manners T6A stock with sniper fill, and surgeon DBM, and add a brake or suppressor. It will be like shooting a 223 AR. You might throw your shoulder out carrying it around... but recoil will no longer be a problem. Believe me.

 

If you live where they are legal, get a suppressor. Make sure your length of pull is long enough, I was getting beat up until I extended mine. Best bet is a lighter caliber.

 

Mercury tubes work great! Google it.

 

I run a Hogue full aluminum pillar "bedded" stock on my 30-06 long range rifle without a break of any kind as the Hogue simply soaks up the recoil. Might be some help and nope the stock I am suggesting is nothing like the one that comes on the new Remy SPS tacticals and while less than 200 bucks it does have a really cushy recoil pad that allows me to shoot my hot 175grn SMK loads all day long.

 

I have a B&C A5 stock and it took a lot of the recoil out of the rifle. Haven't put a brake on it yet but that's in the near future.

 

I have a B&C A5 stock and it took a lot of the recoil out of the rifle. Haven't put a brake on it yet but that's in the near future. View attachment 5370

My two rifles with this stock and NightForce scope (2# itself) tip the scales ~17#. Recoil is not an issue (especially the .223 with 26" MTU profile bbl.)

 

I added this brake from Ops Inc to my Rem 700 .308 and was amazed how much it reduced the recoil. The gunsmith that fitted my rifle with it said it may be the best brake he has tried yet. Took the recoil down to what seems like a .223-.243 recoil. I would definitely recommend it. I got mine at Midway.

 

Beyond adding weight to your rifle and adding a muzzle device of some sort, maybe you should try looking into a .243 if your shoulder is that banged up.

 

If you aren't constantly lugging the rifle around in the field or have to run with it in competiton the first thing I'd do is add weight. Not just in the buttstock but out on the front of the stock. This can be as simple as just finding a fairly thick piece flat lead sheet/bar and securing it to the stock with the sling studs (may have to add one to properly secure the weight). Remove the recoil pad and drill out some of the butt then fill it with Birdshot. I used #12 lead shot on some of my heavy recoil rifles. The smaller shot seems to add more weight in a small cavity than the larger sizes. It's pretty simple, if you double the weight of the firearm the recoil energy is just about halved.

Using a common .308 load an 8# rifle has 16.21 ft/lbs of energy hitting your shoulder. A 16 lb rifle drops that energy to 8.11 ft/lbs

Here's a calculator so you can run your own numbers

Recoil Calculator

Yes, a muzzle brake will reduce recoil measurably but weight is also extremely helpful. You can also "tune" your rifles behavior by moving weight from the Butt to the forend or back.

 

Weight. A 21 pound rifle has 1/3rd of the recoil as a 7 pound rifle (3*7=21; for the math deficient).

 

You might try a Past shooting shoulder pad. I run a brake and suppressor in my 308, but if I'm doing a lot if shooting I strap on the pad and it helps a lot. For $20-30, it's worth trying.

 

I catch a lot of flack because of the brake on my 308. But I can sit and shoot as many rounds as I want and not get wore out from the recoil. The brake cut my recoil down to somewhere around a light 223 rifle. Now its a LOT more enjoyable for me when I get to go shoot. Not that it was a real pain to begin with. But now......I love it.

 

Now its a LOT more enjoyable for me when I get to go shoot.

If you are shooting at an actual range it may make it more enjoyable for you but for the guy next to you, not so much. Especially when you keep blowing his hat off with every shot

Brakes can be a problem if you are shooting in close proximity to others.

 

The Choate Tactical stocks are pretty heavy and the price and shape looks right.

 

I'm gonna be picking up a brake soon. There are no decent ranges around me so being in close proximity to others doesn't happen. It's usually just me and my buddy's in one of our back yards ( I live in the middle of no where)

 

brake away or buy a can!

 

I like reduced recoil and take a lot of crap for it, too. For me it's not injury related, it's all about my ability to see the impact of the bullet. It's much more difficult to shoot in the wind if you can't see your own impacts. Seeing the bullet hit 0.5 mils right of where you held is an extremely valuable learning tool. You've already gotten all the answers, but I'll reinforce one aspect. Rebarrel and go to one of the 6.5mm family of cartridges. Not only are they ballisticly much more efficient (less wind drift) than the .308, recoil is reduced as well. It a win-win if you can afford the expense.

 

if you wanted to spend the money to rebarrel, 600 bucks or so, then the cost of having it installed as well as new ammo, etcc.. reload it? load work up?.. it's cheaper to brake it or buy a can...

next purchase buy a 6.5

 

I wasn't suggesting going to 6.5 instead of a brake or can, but in addition to those options as well as putting it in a heavy stock. Buying a stock gun in 6.5 won't be the same as rebarreling with a good custom barrel, anyway.