I'm picking up a Model 10FCP-K, or starting the paperwork this Wednesday. For the money, this looks to be the best you can get. I'm really excited since this will be my first serious long range setup.

 

10FCP-K thoughts

I have recently purchased a Savage .308 10FCP-K with an Elite 4200 6-24 x 50mm Bushnell scope attached on a one piece DedNutz Game Reaper mount and Harris bipod. After mounting the scope all I had to do to laser sight it in at 25 yds was 3 clicks windage and 5 clicks elevation, to which I added 2-3 more clicks on paper at 100yds. At the range, during the break-in session, it grouped under .5 MOA at 100YDS with Fiocchi Exacta 168gr amo. Federal Premium Gold Medal 168gr came in second with under 1 MOA groups. I used Fiocchi, Federal Premium Gold Medal, Black Hills, and Prvi Partizan ammo, all in 168gr. The other two performed over 1 MOA groups no matter what I tried. I shot the rifle using first the bipod and then a rest. With scope it weighs in at almost 10lbs.

The action is as smooth as it can get on a factory rifle, the accutrigger will pleasantly surprise you with its smooth and crisp performance. Everything else it feels right once you touch the rifle. Not much felt recoil. I will let you know how it performed in the field after November hunt.

I paid $849 from Harris Sports on gunsamerica.com website and I consider it money well spent as I almost plucked down $4000 for a custom made rifle. The whole rig came in at around $1700. Hope this helps. To recap:

Savage .308 10FCP-K - $849 + $30 shipping +$25 FFL fee

DZ-MT-SVG-AR-SA30-36200 DNZ Dednutz Savage All Round Receiver Short Action 30mm Scope Tube $64.99

BU-RS-426245T Bushnell Elite 4200 Series 6-24 x 50mm Tactical Rifle Scope 426245T $679

Harris S-LM Bipod Leg Notch Sling Swivel Stud Mount 9" to 13" Black $86.99

and then Booom!

 

I have one and if you get one you will not be dissapointed. The brake takes alot of the recoil away and combined with the recoil pad it's a very soft shooter. The stock is rock solid but basic looking, on mine the wedge had a hairline crack in it, it still held torque just fine but I called savage anyway. Before I could finish telling them about it they started getting my name & address & overnighted me another one, & offered to send me all the action screws or take a look at the rifle in house! As for how it shoots I usually shoot 10 round or larger groups or the 1" dots etc. for practice. So I don't have any incredible numbers to share but for what I'm capable of I'm happy. I have shot some <.500 3 round groups off a pod with a bag & I usually stay around .750 without the rear bag & the right load. I've shot 150's to 180's in it and it eats them all without problem. The only things I didn't like was the accutrigger blade, and the effort required to work the bolt. Which I fixed both of those almost immediately. Sorry this is so long but I can say if you buy one you will be happy, it has lots of expensive upgrades from the factory (bedded, floated, heavy barrel, fluted, muzzle brake, recoil pad) for well under $1k. Nothing else comes with all that for the price tag. Here's a pic, I definitely have to work on my breathing & lots of other things. But it should be clear the screw ups were me and not the rifle ( I have plenty of excuses for why I pulled them but I'll save them for now lmao!). Good Luck

 

I purchased a Savage 10-FLCP-K in .308 after lots of research and stumbling across a review of the rifle by a fellow SC member on another forum. He also happened to be a dealer and have one in stock.

I was looking for a heavy barrel rifle that would shoot well out of the box, come in left hand, not require immediate stock/trigger work and have a price tag under $800. The 10-FCP-K fit the bill without question. This rifle is also my first center fire rifle and will be serving as a platform to get into long distance shooting.

The optics budget was limited so I settled on a Millett TRS-1 as sugested by the dealer. The rifle also got a harris 6-9" bipod and a BALS MK-2 stock pack.

I've got about 140 rounds down the tube and I'm quite impressed with the gun. I don't really have a basis for comparison but having only just started load development, it has printed several good groups. I hope to tighten things up as I find a good load and get more trigger time.

I've reached out as far as 725yards with this gun with no problem putting rounds on a 29X29" steel plate.

As mentioned above, the rifle is rather plain looking. It gets right to the point and it very easy to shoot with the muzzle break and soft recoil pad. Cheek weld it not a problem with the MK-2, XTR rings and 50mm objective. I believe the accu-trigger is set at 2.5lbs from the factory as is crisp enough for this guy.

Here are some 4 shot groups while testing loads (5 loads, 20 cases, it just worked out). IMR 4064 and 168 GR Amax in once fired federal brass, neck sized with a lee collet die. There appears to be some promise if I do my part.

 

Can someone show me what the bolt release looks like?. I understand it is under the trigger guard now..I want to make sure my DBM wil work or needs some mods.. thanks

Jeff

 

Can someone please tell me their thoughts on the muzzle break on this rifle. I'm comparing it to the Mod 10 FP and wondering if the extra features are beneficial and why?
Cheers

 

Just got my 10-FLCP-K in .308 and put 60 rounds of cheap Federal 150SP's thru it for sightin and some breakin. Scope is the Wotac 4-14X50. Bought a box of 308W Hornady 168 Match BTHP and came up this grouping. Getting my reloading equip together. Bought a UsedRock Chucker, that looks like it was never used..a set of Redding Competiton Bushing Neck Sizing Dies, all off Ebay for great price. Here are some shots of the gun and groupings. Now that I know it shoots good I'm waiting to get some reloads together before I hit the range again.

As for the bolt release you can see it right infront of the trigger guard..pull back trigger hold and push back release..let go of trigger and release bolt...reverse to insert

 

Re:

Can someone please tell me their thoughts on the muzzle break on this rifle. I'm comparing it to the Mod 10 FP and wondering if the extra features are beneficial and why?
Cheers

The muzzle break helps disperse a lot of the gasses to help reduce the amount of recoil, it helps a lot and simply looks bad ass too. there aren't many other features to it but if you have a choice go with the muzzle break, the only downside i see to it is its twice as loud than the 10 fp. Overall the 10 Fcp-k is probably one of the best out of the box guns you can buy.

My Rig:
Savage 10 FCP-K (.308 Win)
Weaver 3-12x 40 scope, rings and mount
Harrison Bipod
175gn sierra matchking bthp handload
42.5gn Varget
Federal match Primer

Top shot 600 yards 3 shot group 1.3 inch

 

If you need a muzzle break to 'reduce recoil' on a .308 rifle you need to go to a lighter caliber. Recoil from the .308 in an 8-10 lb rifle is not much more than the 5.56 from a light weight AR-15. Especially with the nice soft recoil pad Savage offers on the M-10 PC.
Just my .02 worth.

 

If you need a muzzle break to 'reduce recoil' on a .308 rifle you need to go to a lighter caliber. Recoil from the .308 in an 8-10 lb rifle is not much more than the 5.56 from a light weight AR-15. Especially with the nice soft recoil pad Savage offers on the M-10 PC.
Just my .02 worth.

the gun itself is pretty light for a .308, weighing just under 9 lbs, and any shooter would know a lighter gun means more kick but with the addition of the muzzle break it changes it from a kick to an slow push, because of this i am able to keep my sight pic on target at 200 meters at 14x with some practice, when i shoot my friends 10 fp it has a noticeable difference in recoil, it takes much longer to recover from shot to shot. So my reply to re monkey, not saying you said anything wrong or anything, with the "reduced recoil" i'm able to hold my sight picture, and recover much faster than with my friends.

my drill was 4 shots into a 1.4 inch group in under 10 seconds at 200 meter, so for me the muzzle break helps in such situations

 

I notice the nice fluted barrel in the picture... Is that the standard offering ? or an upgrade?

 

Is it in a standard "Accustock" or Tupperware stock as many call it? I had fine luck with my 12FV in the tupperware stock despite it's terrible flex but it seems a shame to put such a fine barreled action into such a sub-par stock.

 

I have a new 10 FCP-K in .308 and when I was installing a EGW 20 moa HD one piece scope base I found that the top of the action wasn't true.
I then took a straight edge and confirmed it was the action and not the base.
In order to make the base lay nice and flat on the action I had to take JB weld and bed the front portion of the base The action isn't off much but just enough that the base needed about a 64th of a inch thick of bedding material to make it lay flat.
I am just wanting to get your experiences with scope base installation on these rifles as in my research it seems that it is not uncommon to have to bed scope bases to these rifles.

I really don't want to have to send my 10 FCP-K back to Savage unless my rifle is the rare odd ball that has this issue.
What do you guys think ?
Thanks

 

I purchased a savage from a friend a few weeks ago and he really didn't have any idea on what model it was just that it was a 10fcp. I have been looking and this is the closest one but I do not have the muzzle break on it. It is a tan accu stock with the heavy flutted barrel, could you get the 10 fcp-k with out the muzzle break? Thanks for all the help will post pictures later on if need.

 

I am pretty new to bolt action rifles so I hope you don't mind me asking how you would go about finding out what type of action it has, what the hole spacing is and is there any way to tell if its an accu stock with out pulling the barrel and action off?

I believe it is when I use a flash light and look down under the barrel I can see a peice of silver, does that mean its an accu stock?

Thank you for the help,

And just an fyi I found out it was a "Mod 10FCPS Desert Tan (AT)"

 

Hello everyone, new to the forums here, and just picked up my Savage 10 FCP-K .308 today. Is there any one specific scope base that works better on this gun? I purchased a Weaver scope base for it today and when I put it on, the action would not move, so I loosened the screws out and It freed up a little, but was really stiff and hard to work the action, If I remove the base, it all works great! and the front barrel side screw hole is to shallow for any of the screws to fit in it.. I feel like a retard not being able to make this thing work with 4 screws... Any ideas or tips you guys might be able to lend me? Also, are there torque values recommended for those screws? Hoping to get this lined out soon.. My trigger finger has been itching like crazy ever since I ordered this gun!

...Depper...

 

Sorry, to bring this thread back. Curious what mount came factory on the FCP K .308? Is it a 20moa or 0moa?

 

I bought mine new a couple of months ago. It did not include a base. I purchased an EGW 20 MOA picatinny base to put on it. I mounted a Vortex Viper 6.5 ~ 20X44 scope with BDC reticle using Warne Maxima rings. My load of 39.0 grains of H-4895 and a 168 grain Nosler Custom Competition bullet gives 2412 fps according to the manual. Not a hot load but the maximum distance my range permits is 350 yards which I easily reach. I'm sure it's good for 500 yards at least.

The AccuTrigger has been reduced to it's lowest setting and is really nice and crisp. Age and arthritis has made my ability to grip the swept-back grip difficult so I bought aa H-S Precision vertical grip stock for it.

The picture below shows 3/4 inch dots with two shots in each. Green, Blue, Red at 100, 200 & 300 yards respectively. The penny group was at 350 yards. I shot the same targets again a week later and while I didn't do quite as well, I still maintained 3/4 MOA which I don't think is too bad.

 

Doubs... it seems like that's the 5th time or so that you've posted that picture. How many rounds do you have through the rifle since that photo was taken? Above you mention that you couldn't manage better than 3/4 moa a week later, but you keep posting that same picture of the 1/4moa performance. I'm just wondering why you keep posting that image?

I'm willing to bet a lot of internet persona's would take a pretty nasty hit in credibility if a 3rd party followed them around and posted their performances each time they shot. You shouldn't get so hung up on a single image and trod it out every time you talk about your rifle. Instead, go shoot some NEW targets and post them. Not cherry-picked, but real results.

 

What!? You mean like shoot every day and post targets every day? Ain't nobody got time for that. 20 shots once every other month is plenty to learn the art of precision shooting.

 

Here ya go... warts and all. For the record I make no special claims about my abilities. I have good days and bad days just like everyone else.

The first image shows the first test loads fired through my Sabatti Rover Tactical .308 at 100 yards. The Serbian bullets obviously weren't worth using. The other four 5-shot test groups averaged .602". I've since refined my load and it's a solid 1/2 MOA rifle.

The second image, a composite, shows first time test groups with my AR-15 in .25-45 Sharps and then 200 & 300 yard targets shot the second time I took it to the range. The 300 yard target's black dot is 3/4 of an inch.

Because the top targets can't be seen very well, I've posted just it at the bottom.

I have scores of pictures of targets I've shot with everything from .22 rifles and pistols to .45-70 single shot rifles and pistols in 9mm Makarov, 9mm Luger, .40 S&W, .45 ACP and half a dozen other pistol cartridges but I won't bore you with them. I also shoot more than 20 rounds every other month. Hell, some months I can go through a full box of .22LR cartridges.