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Discussion Starter #21
Thanks, Adam - you're quite the artist with words! It is a pillar bedded stock (pillars seem to just be inserted into the same diameter holes) and I have a clear picture of what needs to be done.

I hesitate to ask - TMI can be confusing - but you mentioned that the procedure for bedding pillars differed slightly from the one you so nicely outlined. How does it differ?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Whoa - if the Super Mod would have a "pro" bed his custom Manners stock, why is a rank Newbie even considering it:?::D

I'm still up to doing the upgrade on the Hogue - after I've bedded the base, mounted the scope and installed the Jewell trigger, broken in the barrel (next week) and done a little pleasure shooting - but I seriously have to reconsider doing anything to the custom stock. I too want the job done right and it takes a pro to get that result, that's what it takes!

Another question - perhaps best in its own thread - adjustable vs fixed comb. My primary competitive shooting for the last 10 - 12 years has been shotgun, specifically Olympic Trap. Gun fit is critical in this discipline since the eye is the "rear sight", so my initial impulse was to get the T4A with adjustable comb. As I thought about it though, and considered the additional 1.5# and cost of this option, I wondered if it's really necessary for a weapon which is being set up for one person with one optic. So the specific questions are:

Is an adjustable comb an advantage on a weapon that will primarily be shot from a bench or prone by one person?

Are there situations in which a comb would be adjusted in the field or is it pretty much set it and forget it?

Is "drop at the comb" important in precision rifle for operator comfort, accuracy or any other reason?

Again, thanks to all for their input!!
 

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Adjustable comb is very handy. It is the same principle as the shotgun. You want your cheek to hit the same place on the stock every time. This can be done with a stock pack, but is much easier with an adjustable stock. I have a t4 on my .22 and a t4a on my custom that is being built. The t4 is not bad, but does not fit as well as the adjustable.

Also, if you put the Jewell trigger in the hogue (or any other) stock, be sure that it has the clearance before bolting it down. It is slightly larger than the factory trigger. You might need to do some Dremel work.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Thanks, guys - I much prefer to have an integrated adjustable comb to the add-ons, so the T4A gets the nod.

ddd oo7: Thanks for the heads up on the Jewell/Hogue. I'll be tackling that today.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Now that basic configuration of the stock has been settled, I've run into some questions about the various hardware doodads. My inexperienced assessment follows. I'd appreciate any comments or critique---

Though I probably won't use a sling for transport often, it seems reasonable to have attachment points for one. The flush cups seem more convenient than the conventional studs, and the non-rotating version seem more practical than the rotating version.

I also would like to have the option to use a sling for position shooting, and ideally that should be on the right side (for a R handed shooter) so that it comes under the fore-end hand (which it can't do if attached to the L sided transport cups). So an additional R fore-end flush cup seems necessary.

I'd like to use an Atlas bipod and possibly a rear monopod so rails front and rear seem desirable for these attachments. Are conventional studs desirable in addition to the rails and is there any reason to have rails longer that required to mount the -pods?

Any other options I should consider?

Thanks,

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Thanks again, Adam, for all your suggestions! Now the wait begins---
 

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What bottom metal did you get the stock in letter for?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I specified the Surgeon DBM, and also went with the 90% carbon fiber option to offset some of the additional weight of the adjustable comb. In view of our earlier discussion about DIY pillar bedding, my current plans are to have the install of the DBM and bedding done by a pro rather than attempt it myself.
 

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That will be a great stock. Mine is a T4A, two cups left, surgeon bottom metal, carbon fiber, atlas front rail, and no studs. It is molded in OD green, but Mike at Tac-Ops is going to epoxy and paint it before it comes back. You will like the stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Quick question - I plan to bed my 5R barrel and action into the Manners T4A stock. I didn't want to go to the additional expense of cerokoting the metal at this time but it occurred to me that perhaps it would be better to have it done before bedding. Does it make any difference which is done first??
 

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Manners are great people to deal with.

I went with a T-4A with the Manners Mini Chassis with DBM. The other thing to consider is the adjustable length of pull. I found that the stock LOP was too short for me. Manners will retrofit the adjustable LOP for the same price as ordering it on the stock. But you to have to pay two way shipping.

No bedding, no pillars to install.

And the rifle worked well out to 1200 yards. :)

But one thing, if you are going to rebarrel your Sendero, why would you want to get a 5R?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Manners are great people to deal with.

I went with a T-4A with the Manners Mini Chassis with DBM. The other thing to consider is the adjustable length of pull. I found that the stock LOP was too short for me. Manners will retrofit the adjustable LOP for the same price as ordering it on the stock. But you to have to pay two way shipping.

No bedding, no pillars to install.

And the rifle worked well out to 1200 yards. :)

But one thing, if you are going to rebarrel your Sendero, why would you want to get a 5R?
But one thing, if you are going to rebarrel your Sendero, why would you want to get a 5R?
Something about the Mini-Chassis that doesn't appeal to me - or maybe I'm just a traditionalist (actually, no "maybe"). Plus I've read suggestions that these also should be bedded for optimal accuracy. At any rate I've worked out an arrangement with a smith in KC to get the stock from Manners and do the drilling and bedding so no pressure on me to figure this out.

I believe at the time this thread was active, I was thinking of the future - I have no intention of re-barreling the 5R particularly since it groups well under 0.5 MOA with the "stock" stock in the hands of a Newbie rifle shooter!

I decided not to go with the adjustable length of pull since I have the capability to change recoil pads/spacers myself to make any minor changes in LOP. And since I'm setting the gun up for one shooter, once I get the correct LOP, I'll be good to go.

Can't wait to get the T4A - 18 of the estimated 16-20 weeks have passed and I will be on the phone to Manners tomorrow to get an update.

Thanks for your comments,

Dave
 

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Hello gun owners. I'm looking to buy a scope. Can anyone help me out on which one I should buy on this review I came across?<br>
I decided to join this forum so I can ask for advice for those with the know how about guns and its accessories.
 

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I'm a big fan of the stocks from KONOHAWK. It is a relatively newer company but their products are pretty impressive. They've also put their stocks through different testing. I have a K1T myself and plan on buying the new K2 model soon. If you're looking to get into a stock without months, definitely check them out >> KONOHAWK - KONOHAWK - Home
 

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The 700 option I choose

Purchased the exact same rifle this past February along with the AB Arms Mod X Gen III Chassis system. Takes about 15 minutes to remove original stock and install their chassis (I sold my original stock and trigger on eBay for $140). Zero's to 100 in 5 shoots, and was hitting steel at 600yards this past weekend, off to the Pala range for some 1000 yard steel this weekend. I couldn't be happier with the setup.
 

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I just sold my 5r hs precision stock and ordered this pdc custom gen 4. Craig (owner) did amazing by me, just finished it today and will ship monday. I have seen nothing bit good reviews and good words about his customer service and the customer service had been top notch. He also has 30 something color options. Give him a ring and talk to him. Theres the pic of the stock finished he sent me, the 5r as it sat ladt week, and a pic of the best grouping so far out of the hs stock at 100 yards, 178 gr bthp match/lapua brass/40 gr varget and winchester primers. Was playing with some different handloads.
 

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In previous posts I've solicited input into the selection of a rifle and optics for precision/tactical shooting to 600 yds. In large part due to advice from forum members, I now have a 308 Rem 700 SPS AAC_SD (unable to find a 5R), Nightforce 3.5-15x50 F1 NXS scope and Jewell trigger awaiting assembly (no hurry - there seems to be no 308 ammo or components available!).

The original stock clearly needs to be replaced to achieve the full potential of the rest of the components, and am considering B&C, HS, Manners, McMillan. The recent thread on stock comparison has been quite helpful but I have some specific (and some very basic) questions regarding the selection of a stock.

Are any or all or none of the above brands simple drop-in or do they require fitting, bedding, etc? If a 5R becomes available, will I be able to simply switch out the barreled action of the SPS for the 5R?

Does an aluminum bedding block eliminate the need for glass bedding?

For my specific action/barrel is there one brand or model that is more suitable than others?

Is the thumbhole design individual preference or is there an inherent advantage?

Thanks for the past advice and in advance for more on this topic---

Dave
I wrote this in response a newbie having problems with a specific rifle, that said im including it here, and my advice for newbies

Im looking for one of these now, and save the high end rifles for the range. While your post is a few yrs old, im shocked. Everyone is sold out, but this gun has a 5 star rating on mult sites. Reviews talk of 1 moa out of the box.
That said, and to new readers, 308 is a great round, but not if your new trying to make 400yrd shots. The cal is more than capable, but not for someone new wo good optics and good understanding of bullet drop. Too many times ive seen guys spend $1000 on a rifle, then top it off with a cheap scope or red dot, and blame the gun.
Thats my opinion, and im.not a self professed expert as half seem to be online.
Too often these days ppl buy guns based on a "cool tactical look". The result, were now paying more for $8 plastic stocks, than hand rubbed premium walnut or mahogany. Call me old fashion, but i think youve lost your minds. No matter what they call it, its plastic. Hand laid carbon fiber does not come from a plastic injection molding machine. Even more sad, is mossy oak wallpaper over plastic.
To me its like Ford painting their new trucks in gray or black primer, calling it a new tactical anti reflective coating, and charging more. Who's the dumbass?
In addition, do your homework. Find sites and youtubers that back their opinions with actual facts and figures.
For starters, fig out what you want the rifle for, and there are many that cross mult platforms. Then research the ammo, to not only find what youll need, but how flat it shoots, how avail it is and the cost, then look at rifles in that cal.
Again, one big newbie mistake is buying large mag rifles, then finding they cant handle the recoil. In addition, almost any necked mag ammo greatly reduces barrel life. As a rule of thumb, the ave 223 to 30-06 barrel should last 8000 to 10,000 rounds. Magnums in that range are 1500-2000. Personally, my pockets arent deep enough to replace barrels at that rate. While mags are great for long range hunting, or casual target shooting with low fire rates, they will be chew up barrels quickly if your a range shooter.
Last but not least, and to all newbies. Your 22 you plan on plinking with at grandpas farm does not need to be "tactical" and look like it was borrowed off a starwars set. Seriously, do we really need to wonder why were scaring the crap out of non gun owners? You've got a gun and skills that may hit a squirrel, you dont need a laser range finder, 3 lights, a 14" scope, folding stock and hand grips. What you need is a life.
Its become so bad in NY, cops are getting called when ppl are even seen with an AR. Learn to shoot, forget the toys. Some of our militaries best snipers going back to wwll learned shooting tin cans and pie plates with old beat up 22s and lever action carbines.
Find a low recoil gun, and practice. One thing i will warn you of, many buyers will rate things high if they are inexpensive only. Youll find this with cheap guns, ammo and optics. A $45 ebay Acog scope, will have the same rating as the $1500 real deal. Why? It looks cool and tactical, looks like the real deal, works (kinda) and cost $45 bucks.
Practice! Half these guys talking sub moa online likely couldn't hit the broad side of a barn.
Included my pic, of the suburban weekend warrior 22.
This is what happens when you've gone from vid games, to a real gun and listen to too many online yahoos. Again, do we really need to wonder why so many non gun owners are jumping on the antigun wagon?
Some of the best WWll snipers used rifles that were not close to our new out of the box, sub moa rifles, and they hit their mark. It boils down to skill, and that comes from practice.
29006
 

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Trigger time with a good spotter/trainer got me started then practice at distance. The thing is at least for me is that shooting proficiency is a perishable skill.. after a few months, those first shots don’t seem to go where I want them to.

BTW Capt that’s quite a pic..
 
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