Nate and Orkan! Nice posts! For me, shooting really good groups is 80% dirt time and the rest is trigger. I have a really great rifle but without that 2 pound Jewell trigger my shooting goes to 10 moa.
What he said!The best thing you can do for accuracy is to carefully and thoroughly burn out the first barrel...
blah, blah, blah, et al.
Is anyone able, to give an update on these items from a Savage rifle perspective? I don't have a nearby gunsmith that specializes in precision rifles, much less Savage precision, so I would appreciate your thoughts on what needs to be done if I mail out my rifle.The best thing you can do for accuracy is to carefully and thoroughly burn out the first barrel...
4) Evaluate the trigger as it comes from the factory...possibly consider replacing with A) Arnold Jewell HVR set at 2-3 pounds, or (B) "improved remington" design aftermarket trigger like Timney. Choose option A if this is a rifle that will not see use in freezing conditions, if it will, consider one of the option "B" 2-lever designs.
10) At this point, let your riflesmith disassemble and evaluate the action. He/she will almost undoubtedly single-point remachine the threads, face the action, face the bolt, recut the rear lug surfaces, possibly retime extracton cam, possibly bush the firing pin (suggest this if you've had trouble with cratering on your primers), possibly ream the raceway and bush the bolt, possibly install a better extractor like a Sako...the list goes on. Take a look at Greg Tannel's (Gre-Tan) Info pages, and at Mike Roscoe's (Lousiana Precision) Truing Pages to get an idea of what CAN be done with a Remchester.
Replace the mainspring in the action at this point. You're 15,000 cycles and a barrel into the deal...she's tired, and ready for the recycle pile.
Evaluate other stock options, if they might suit your shooting style and purposes better. If needed, have your smith pillar and glass the rifle into a new stock, or do the same on the factory stock.